THE 

CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY 

IN   THE  GULF  OF  ST.    LAWRENCE 
AND  ADJACENT  WATERS. 

WITH     NUMEROUS    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


REPRINTED  FROM   THE  '"CENTURY  MAGAZINE: 


BY 

S.   G.   VV.   BENJAMIN. 


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'      -li.'  CI  t,.:    '  "  t,  '  o  "-i  J  1      »>  o  a,.  "    „  'J  »  a    6  0 

«'",?<> '"   <^'' K  0  0  0  o  4I  0  M  t;j' *o      u  c  "      a  !!_  ^  ...  0,  <i  ao 

»   iS.-  ■■»»  "    g  o  .'  0  e  •  0  i     tjTi    ao  S        <>  »      o  ^L     0  >» 

0  t    >.         a  w  ;f      o      J  Q  .,       0  u    o  J  o  J         a      ^.       a 


NEW    YORK: 
D.     APPLETON      AND     COIVIPANY, 

I,  3,  AND    5    BOND    STREET. 
1885. 

i\ 


Copyright,  1884, 
By  D.  APPLETON   AND   COMPANY. 


*%    *        i 

I  »    : 

■ 

•  I   '  ■ 


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•    •»    »   :  I 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


FROM  ORIGINAL   DRAWINGS  BY   M.   J.   BURNS, 


Off  Paspebiac  .... 

Beach  at  Tracadie      .... 

The  M ail-Boat  at  Prince  Edward  Island 

Midship  F"rame  of  the  "Northern  Light" 

The  Steamer  "Arctic"  crossing  from  the  Mainland  to  the 

A  Fish-Boy         ..... 

On  Deck. — Our  Cook         .  . 

Amateur  Cooking        .... 

Burning  Refuse  from  the  Lumber  Mills 

Millstone  Quarries     .... 

Our  First  Fish        .  . 

Our  Crew  at  Supper  .... 

Fishermen  at  Paspebiac     .... 

The  Beach  at  Paspebiac. — A  View  of  the  Bay 

A  Fish  Establishment  at  Paspebiac 

Cape  Gasp^ — Fishing-Houses  at  Cape  Gasp6 

Head  of  an  Old  Pilot. — Up  GASPfe  Bay 

Perce  Rock        ..... 

Crossing  the  Ferry  at  Gasp6. — An  Old  Oven 

Curing  Fish  at  Perce  .  . 

Returning  from  Church  . 

Perc6  Rock.     (Drawn  by  Thomas  Moran.)     . 

The  Dash  to  Amherst 

The  Old  Skipper         .... 

Etang  dv  Nord       .... 

The  Fiddler      .  .  .  . 

Crossing  the  Ford  to  Amherst 

A  Few  of  the  Natives 

Old  Fire-Place  at  Entry  Island 

The  Gale  at  Entry  Island  . 

Off  Dbadman  Island         .  .  . 


Island 


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<\ 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Guernsey  Island  ..... 

The  Bay  of  Islands  ..... 

Cape  Blomidon. — Prospectlng  ... 

Up  the  River  Humber      ..... 

Fishing  off  the  Bay  of  Islands      .  .  . 

The  Mail-Carrier  ...... 

The  Dance  at  Petipas  .... 

A  Street  in  St.  Pierre     .  . 

A  Fishing  Gang  at  St.  Pierre 

Government  Houses  and  Town  Pumps  at  St,  Pierre 

A  Street  Corner 

A  Sketch  off  St.  Pierre. — A  St.  Pierre  Fishing-Boat 

The  Cathedral  ..... 

Fishing  for  Squid  ..... 

Curing  Fish  at  St.  Pierre     .... 

The  Town  Crier     ..... 

Struck  by  a  Squall    . 

The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes,  Cape  Breton  Island    . 

Indian  Camp  at  Baddeck. — A  Wigwam  Cradle    . 

On  the  Road  to  Baddeck 

Cape  Porcupine. — Cape  St.  George,  from  Hastings 

Lovers*  Lane,  Hastings    ..  .  -        .  . 

A  Street  at  Arichat  .  .  .  1  : 

.\n  Old  Cottage  at  Arichat      .  .  . 

The  Oldest  House  in  Prince  Edward  Island    . 

Heaving  the  Log  ..... 


PAGE 

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124 
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129 


LIST    OF    MAPS. 

Cruise  of  the  Alice  May      .  .  .  .  .  ,  , 

Map  of  the  Trip  from  Charlottetown  to  Paspebiac 

Map  of  the  Cruise.    (Paspebiac  to  the  Magdalen  Isles.) 

Map  of  the  Cruise  from  the  Magdalen  Islands  to  Cape  St.  Georgs 

The  Cruise  of  the  Alice  May  through  the  Bay  of  Islands 

Map  of  the  Cruise  from  the  Bay  of  Islands  to  St.  Pierre 

From  St.  Pierpe  to  Georgetown    ...... 


18 
27 
45 
53 
74 
90 

*I9 


THE   CRUISE   OF  THE  ALICE   MAY. 


I. 


VERY  one  has  heard  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  but  few  are  aware  of 
the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  attrac- 
tions it  offers  to  the  tourist  and  the 
artist.  Even  to  such  as  have  given 
it  some  thought  it  generally  appears 
to  be  a  region  of  mists,  snow,  and 
storms,  and  more  or  less  enveloped 
in  hyperborean  glooms.  But  re- 
cently sportsmen  and  yacht-sailors 
have  begun  to  visit  the  western 
shores  of  the  gulf,  and  a  suspicion 
is  dawning  on  the  mind  of  the  sum- 
mer rambler  that  this  part  of  the 
world  has  been  maligned,  and  that 
during  the  summer  solstice  it  offers  a  variety  of 
attractions  up  to  this  time  all  but  unknown. 

Anxious  to  see  for  ourselves  the  truth  of  the  mat- 
ter, and  to  view  some  of  these  points  of  interest  be- 
fore the  tide  of  summer  travel  had  worn  away  the 
novelty,  we  prepared  a  cruise  round  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  adjacent  waters. 

The  point  of  departure  was  Charlottetown,  Prince 
Edward  Island.  Through  the  kindness  of  a  friend  residing  there,  a  suit- 
able schooner  was  chartered.  But  when  the  day  for  taking  possession 
arrived,  the  schooner  failed  to  put  in  an  appearance.  Here,  at  the  very 
outset,  we  encountered  one  o*^  the  most  common  annoyances  which  a 
punctual  man  and  a  Yankee  is  forced  to  endure  in  the  maritime  provinces. 
Punctuality  or  appreciation  of  the  value  of  time  is  scarce' y  understood 


6  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY, 

there.  Without  delay,  we  threw  out  scouts  in  every  direction  to  report 
on  the  matter  of  available  schooners.  Long  search  was  attended  by  many 
pleasant  incidents.  It  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  see  much  of  this  charm- 
ing island,  and  to  enjoy  the  genial  hospitality  of  its  people,  especially  the 
kind  folk  of  Charlottetown.  This  is  a  quiet  but  attractive  place  of  some 
ten  thousand  inhabitants.  On  the  outskirts,  especially  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Governor's  mansion,  there  is  much  beauty  in  the  residences, 
which  are  surrounded  by  shrubbery  and  situated  by  the  water-side. 

Tuesdays  and  Fridays  are  the  days  when  Charlottetown  shows  the 
most  evidence  of  activity  and  commercial  prosperity.  The  market-house 
occupies  a  prominent  place  in  the  square  where  the  Government  buildings 


Off  Paspebiac. 


are  situated.  On  these  days  it  is  crowded  by  both  the  city  and  country 
folk,  the  latter  including  a  few  Indians.  An  active  barter  in  provisions 
takes  place  between  the  towns-people  and  the  farmers,  while  that  part  of 
the  city  bears  the  appearance  of  a  gala-day. 

Two  causes  have  recently  produced  great  commercial  depression  on 
the  island.  These  are  the  failure  of  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Bank, 
through  the — what  shall  we  call  it  ? — of  the  directors,  and  the  decline  in 
ship-building,  which,  until  the  primeval  forests  had  been  cut  down,  was  a 
great  source  of  revenue  to  the  island.  The  failure  of  the  fisheries  and  the 
absence  of  American  fishermen  from  the  Gulf,  partly  caused  by  the  short- 
sighted policy  of  the  Dominion  Government,  have  also  affected  the  pros- 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  7 

perity  of  this  province.  In  summer  time  Prince  Edward  Island  enjoys  a 
delightful  temperature :  the  mercury  ranges  for  three  months  from  sixty 
to  seventy-six  degrees,  rarely  varying  from  those  figures.  The  air  is  dry 
and  free  from  fogs,  and,  as  the  wind  invariably  comes  off  the  sea,  the  island 
is  exceedingly  healthful.  The  advantages  for  summer  visitors  are  increased 
by  the  abundance  of  fresh  meat  and  other  provisions,  the  cheapness  of 
living,  and  the  loveliness  of  the  driv^es  in  every  direction  over  a  country 
that  is  gently  undulating,  verdurous,  and  always  in  sight  of  the  sea.  The 
rivers,  notably  the  Dunk,  the  Hunter,  and  the  Morell  rivers,  abound  with 


Beach  at   Tracadie, 


fine  salmon  and  trout  fishing, 
and  the  long  reaches  of  sand 
along  the  easterly  shore  are 
frequented  by  snipe,  plover, 
and  duck.  Everywhere  a 
pastoral  peace  pervades  the 
farms  on  the  edge  of  the  for- 
ests.    Fine  droves  of  horses 

enliven   the   fields,  and  remind  one  of  Thessaly,  the  land  of  fleet-footed 

steeds. 

It  is  not  singular  that  these  attractions  have  begun  to  draw  the  atten- 
tion of  summer  tourists,  who  find  comfortable  accommodations  at  the  farm- 
houses or  at  the  hotels  erected  at  such  charming  resorts  as  Rustico  and 
Tracadie.  Houses  may  also  be  rented  by  the  season  on  very  moderate 
terms.  It  is  to  the  influx  of  such  visitors,  with  pockets  popularly  supposed 
to  be  lined  with  gold,  that  the  island  may  reasonably  look  for  a  return  of 


8 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


some  of  its  vanished  prosperity.  The  faciHties  for  observing  the  scenery 
of  Prince  Edward  Island  are  greatly  aided  by  a  narrow-gauge  railroad, 
which  is  always  sure  to  be  used,  as  the  Dominion  agreed  to  keep  it  going 
when  the  island  entered  into  the  confederation  ;  but  no  one  expects  it  ever 
to  pay  its  expenses.  The  lobster-canning  business,  which  has  also  assumed 
great  dimensions  in  Prince  Edward  Island,  might  likewise  be  considered  a 
powerful  means  of  driving  the  wolf  from  the  door,  if  but  the  uncertain 
crustaceans  could  be  depended  upon.  But  they  take  no  interest  whatever 
in  the  designs  of  capitalists  and  fishermen  to  ship  them  to  the  markets  of 


Tfu  Mail-Boat  at  Prince  Edward  Island. 


the  world  in  elegantly  labeled  tin  cases,  and,  declining  to  co-operate  in 
these  schemes  when  the  season  comes  around,  may  take  a  notion  to  forsake 
their  haunts  for  parts  unknown.  Then  the  canning  factory  is  closed,  and 
the  fisherman's  dory  lies  bleaching  on  the  shore  while  he  anxiously  smokes 
his  pipe  and  talks  of  emigrating  to  the  United  States,  maligning  the  day 
when  the  island  entered  the  Dominion.  In  default  of  any  better  cause,  the 
people  generally  agree  in  tracing  their  ills  to  this  union ;  but  the  sequence 
is  by  no  means  self-evident. 

Gazing  over  these  pleasant  landscapes  and  breathing  the  soft  southern 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  9 

breeze,  it  is  difficult  to  realize  that  for  many  months  the  island  is  not  only 
covered  with  snow  to  an  enormous  depth,  but  also  well-nigh  shut  out  from 
the  rest  of  the  world  by  a  tremendous  barrier  of  ice.  From  January  until 
May,  at  least,  Northumberland  Strait  is  frozen  over.  The  mails  are  carried 
across  at  the  narrowest  part,  near  Cape  Tormentine,  or  Jourimain,  a  dis- 
tance of  nine  miles.  The  carriers  drag  a  boat  over  the  hummocks  of  ice 
which  is  provided  with  runners  like  a  double  keel. 

When  they  come  to  open  water  they  cross  in  the 

boat.     It  is  a  dangerous  and  arduous  journey,  and      /  \ 

few  undertake    it  besides   the   hardy  mail-carriers.     [  ] 

For  two  or  three  winters  past  the  passage  has  been  V--- -^-'-?-*.— •-:-^i.'.T'-T;is.^.....y 
made  sometimes  by  the   steamer   Northern   Light,       \^  / 

constructed  especially  for  this  service.     She  has  a  \^  X 

frame  of  enormous  strength,  somewhat  of  a  wedge  n^    / 

form,  with  a  solid  shoe  of  iron  at  the  bow  ;  every-  „.^  ».    r-  ^   , 

-'  Midship  Frame  of  the 

thmg  about  her  was  planned  to  enable  her  to  crush  ''Northern  Light." 

her  way  through  the  ice,  which  is  often  from  two 

to  four  feet  thick.  Her  course  is  from  Pictou  to  Georgetown,  a  distance 
of  some  eighty  miles,  although  she  often  has  to  go  over  two  or  three  times 
that  dis*^ance  to  reach  her  port.  In  all  the  annals  of  steam  navigation 
there  is  no  such  packet  service  recorded  as  this  of  the  Northern  Light. 
Sometimes  the  ice  is  so  dense  that  she  can  make  no  headway,  but  is 
jammed  fast  for  days  and  weeks,  or  carried  to  and  fro  by  the  combined 
fury  of  ice  and  storms.  The  passenger  who  starts  in  her  for  Prince 
Edward  Island  in  March  has  before  him  the  horrors  of  polar  solitude  and 
hazard.  In  the  spring  of  1882  the  Northern  Light  was  three  weeks  making 
this  brief  passage,  fast  locked  'a  the  ice-packs.  Sometimes  she  was  car- 
ried close  to  the  shore,  but  no  one  could  bring  aid  to  the  starving  passen- 
gers, owing  to  the  threatening  condition  of  the  ice.  It  was  only  after 
burning  all  the  woodwork  in  the  cabin  for  fuel,  and  being  reduced  to  the 
last  biscuit,  that  the  worn-out  and  hopeless  passengers  reached  the  des- 
tined port.  Think  of  a  civilized  and  enlightened  people,  in  this  age,  shut 
off  from  the  rest  of  the  world  by  such  a  frightful  siege  of  ice  and  tempest 
and  snow !  Nor  is  this  an  occasional  thing.  As  regularly  as  the  winter 
comes  around,  the  islanders  look  for\vard  to  this  long  hibernation  and 
isolation.  Were  it  not  for  this  drawback,  the  island  might  be  a  paradise. 
During  the  long  winter  the  people  contrive  to  exist  with  some  comfort, 
and  find  compensations  for  their  solitude.  Sleigh-rides  and  skating  are 
followed  with  much  zest,  and  thtre  is  a  good  deal  of  merriment  and 
festivity. 


lO 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


Charlottetown  is,  of  course,  the  center  of  life  in  Prince  Edward  Island, 
but  the  social  distinctions  are  drawn  with  considerable  and,  perhaps, 
unnecessary  emphasis.  Lying  as  it  does  on  an  arm  of  the  sea  which 
ext'^nds  east  and  west  some  forty  miles  like  a  river,  this  city  enjoys  fine 
facilities  for  aquatic  sports,  while  the  drives  in  the  neighborhood  are, 
during  the  summer,  very  agreeable.  Everything  here  is,  however,  on  a 
reduced  scale,  except  the  land  and  water,  and  the  ideas  of  the  country 
people  are  on  a  level  with  their  environment.  They  tell  a  good  story  of  a 
country  lout  who  had  never  seen  any  larger  place  than  Souris,  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  island,  not  even  Charlottetown.  Souris  has  about  two 
thousand  inhabitants.     One  of  his  companions  made  a  trip  to  New  York, 


The  Steamer  '^Arctic"  crossing  from  the  Mainland  to  the  Island. 


and  on  his  return  expatiated  on  the  vastness  of  that  great  city.  "  And 
now,  and  is't  as  large  as  Souris,  then  ?  "  inquired  the  former,  increduiousxy. 
Money  goes  far  here,  because  it  is  scarce,  and  time  and  provisions,  th^ 
chief  commodities,  are  cheap.  The  people  are  mostly  of  Scotch  descent. 
The  remnants  of  a  tribe  of  Micmacs,  civilized  almost  out  of  existence,  still 
occupy  a  reservation  on  Indian  Island,  in  Richmond  Bay,  and  sell  baskets 
and  bead-work  at  the  weekly  market.  Descendants  of  the  original  Acadian 
French  yet  farm  the  lands  about  Rustico  and  Ingonish.  They  have  a 
convent  at  the  latter  place.  By  far  the  most  numerous  people  on  Prince 
Edward  Island  are  the  Highland  Scotch.    They  came  here  originally  from 


THE  CRUISE   OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


II 


A  Fish-Boy. 


12 


THE   CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


the  Hebrides,  driven  from  home,  it  is  said,  by  the  religious  oppression  of 
the  lairds.  They  have  increased  and  multiplied,  and,  with  the  addition  of 
the  French  habitans,  nearly  half  the  population  is  Roman  Catholic.  There 
are,  however,  many  Protestant  Scotch  mingled  with  the  others,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  the  annually  recurring  public  school  question,  they  appear 
to  live  together  very  peaceably. 

The  Scotch  have  a  Caledonian  Club  at  Charlottetown,  and  once  a  year 
there  is  a  great  gathering  of  the  clans,  with  a  correspondmg  display  of 

plaids.     The  same  clan 
\       names  reappear  so  con- 
stantly that,  in  order  to 
avoid    confusion,  curi- 
ous sobriquets  are  often 
attached  to  a  person's 
name  ;  as,  for  example, 
a  certain  McDonald  is 
called  Red  Angus  Mc- 
Donald, to  distinguish 
him  from  White  Angus 
McDonald.    One  of  the 
most   prominent    fami- 
lies of  Prince   Edward 
Island  is  that  of  James  Yeo,  who  accumulated 
a  very  large  fortune  in  ship-building.      His 
sons  are  members  of   the   Dominion  Parlia- 
ment.     He  came  from  England  as  a  cabin- 
boy,  and  the  rough  school  in  which  he  was 
bred   always  marked   his   character.     Many 
curious  stories  about  him  are  current.    When 
annoyed  by  any  family  jar,  he  would  secrete 
Our  Cook.  himself  in  the  cuddy  of  an  old  schooner  with 

a  keg  of  rum  and  remain  there  until  it  was 
exhausted.  He  once  lost  a  brig,  and  three  of  the  crew  also  perished ; 
when  alluding  to  the  misfortune  he  exclaimed,  "  i  oor  things !  two  souls 
and  an  Irishman  !  " 

Prince  Edward  Island  was  first  discovered  by  Cabot,  who  called  it  St. 
John's  Island,  which  name  it  retained  until  1800;  and  the  French  still  call 
it  Isle  St.  Jean.  Verrazzano  took  possession  of  it  for  France  in  1523,  and 
the  French  at  once  established  a  number  of  fishing  stations  there.  But  the 
island  was  ceded  to  England  by  the  treaty  of   Fontainebleau,  and  Lord 


THE  CRUISl    of   the  ALICE  MAY. 


n 


Egmont  was  appointed  to  draw  up  a  form  of  colonial  government. 
Assuming  that  tiie  Micmac  Indians  were  ferocious  savages,  instead  of  the 
inoffensive  beings  they  proved  to  be,  he  laid  out  an  absurd  plan  to  divide 
the  2,000,000  acres  at  his  disposal  into  fifty  parts,  called  baronies,  of  which 
forty  were  to  be  granted  to  as  many  colonists,  bearing  the  title  of  lords  of 
hundreds.  They  were  to  owe  allegiance  to  him  as  lord  paramount.  The 
baronies  were  in  turn  to  be  subdivided  into  manors.  Fairs  were  to  occur 
four  times  yearly  in  each  barony,  and  markets  twice  weekly.  Feudal 
castles  were  to  be  built  likewise  to  protect  the  colonists  in  a  place  of 
which  it  was  said,  "  The  settler  can  scarce  straggle  from  his  habitation  five 
hundred  yards,  even  in  times  of  peace,  without  risk  of  being  intercepted, 
scalped,  and  murdered." 

This  was  indeed  a  narrow  escape  from  a  preposterous  attempt  to  im- 
port to  the  New  World  an  exploded  system  of  the  past.  But,  although 
Lord  Egmont's  plan  was  finally  rejected,  a  scarcely  less  objectionable  one 
was  adopted,  by  whose  provisions  the  island  was  divided  into  sixty-one 
lots.  One  of  these  went  to  the  Crown,  and  the  others  were  sold  in  one 
day  to  the  highest  bidders.  It  is  only  recently,  and  after  a  long  struggle, 
that  Prince  Edward  Island  has  become  independent  of  this  system. 

While  picking  up  these  notes  by  the  way,  we  were  pursuing  our  inde- 
fatigable search  for  a  schooner,  as  the  season  was  well  advanced,  and  the 
time  to  cruise  in  those  waters  is  before  the  September  equinoctial.  At  last 
we  heard  of  a  desirable  craft  at  Miminegash,  an  obscure  port  but  little 
known  to  fame.  A  bargain  was  closed  after  much  chaffering  with  the 
owner,  an  owre  canny  Scot,  and  the  vessel  was  brought  around  to  Char- 
lottetown  to  be  manned  and  provisioned.  The  Alice  May,  of  Miminegash, 
was  fifty-nine  feet  long  and  sixteen  feet  wide,  and  with  a  full  set  of  ballast 
drew  seven  feet  aft.  She  registered  fifty-six  tons,  and,  being  intended  for 
a  freighter,  had  a  flat  floor  and  could  hardly  be  called  a  clipper.  But  she 
was  very  strong  and  reasonably  safe.  Being  heavily  sparred  for  a  coaster, 
and  carrying  sail  well,  she  was  properly  fitted  to  grapple  with  the  variable 
weather  we  expected  to  encounter. 

The  Alice  May  had  no  forecastle  for  the  crew,  but  only  a  small  cuddy 
aft,  with  bunks  for  four  men.  This  also  served  for  a  galley,  after  the  man- 
ner of  small  coasters.  We  therefore  turned  the  hold  into  a  cabin,  and  a 
very  comfortable  and  spacious  place  it  proved  to  be.  By  fixing  two  bulk- 
heads of  de-^l  fore  and  aft,  we  obtained  a  "saloon  "  eighteen  feet  long  by 
sixteen  feet  wide,  exactly  amidships.  A  small  trunk  or  booby-hatch  with 
a  slide  was  arranged  over  the  main  hatch  for  a  companion-way.  Plain 
bunks  were  fixed  to  each  side,  ample  as  a  divan,  thus  serving  alternately 


u 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


for  berth,  sofa,  or  lounge,  as  circumstances  might  suggest.  Our  table  was 
at  the  after  end,  and  a  cylindrical  stove,  which  is  indispensable  for  a 
cruiser  in  those  waters,  even  in  midsummer,  was  at  the  opposite  end.  Un- 
der the  bunks  were  lockers  for  our  stores.  Numerous  cleats,  nails,  and 
shelves  were  soon  festooned  with  coats,  caps,  sou'westers,  storm-boots,  spy- 
glasses, charts,  fowling-pieces,  water-jugs,  pipes,  fishing-rods,  and  the  in- 
dispensable looking-glass  and  barometer.  There  was  no  paint  anywhere 
except  such  as  we  daubed  in  artistic  dabs  during  the  cruise,  with  the  pa- 


Amateur  Cooking. 

lette  knife  when  cleaning  a  palette.  But  the  general  effect  was  not  by  any 
means  unattractive.  It  certainly  suggested  comfort,  and  preparation  for 
any  emergency  that  might  occur. 

Our  crew  consisted  of  a  captain,  a  mate,  and  one  man  before  the  mast. 
It  was  thought  this  would  be  sufficient  with  the  cook,  who  might  bear  a 
hand  on  occasion ;  and  we  were  able,  in  case  of  need,  to  stand  a  watch  in 
bad  weather  ourselves.  These  coasters  generally  get  along  with  one  man 
on  deck  in  good  weather  to  steer  and  to  keep  a  lookout.     Sometimes  even 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  1 5 

he  falls  asleep  at  the  wheel,  and  everything  is  left  to  chance.  It  is  a  happy- 
go-lucky  \,  ay,  which  works  very  well  until  something  happens.  A  major- 
ity of  the  accidents  to  coasting  vessels  from  collision  or  squalls  are  the 
result  of  gross  laziness  or  culpable  carelessness. 

Captain  Welch  had  mhis  day  been  master  of  square-rigged  vessels,  but, 
being  now  well  along  in  years,  was  forced  to  put  up  with  forc-and-afters. 
It  requires  a  special  experience  to  sail  a  schooner  well ;  but  still  the  sailing 
of  a  square-rigged  vessel  is  more  complicated,  and  is,  at  any  rate,  consid- 
ered a  grade  higher  in  seamanship.  The  captain's  white  beard,  the  far-off 
look  in  his  wrinkled  eyes,  the  poetic  speech  in  which  he  indulged,  and  his 
nervous  temperament,  easily  elated  or  depressed,  would  far  more  easily 
have  made  him  pass  for  a  Celtic  bard  than  an  old  man  of  the  sea.  John, 
the  mate,  was  a  Frenchman,  short,  quick,  and  of  mercurial  disposition. 
Bill,  who  in  his  single  person  represented  the  crew,  was  every  inch  a  sailor, 
large,  lithe,  powerful,  and  efficient  if  well  commanded :  he  had  the  real 
seaman's  grip  that  would  enable  him  to  hang  on  to  a  foot-rope  with  his 
eyelids,  and  the  nonchalant  recklessness  or  stupid  dare-deviltry  which 
made  him  careless  of  dangers  with  which  he  was  familiar,  while  cowardly 
in  the  presence  of  new  forms  of  peril.  Fond  he  was,  too,  of  his  grog,  and 
of  handling  his  knife  when  half-seas-over,  and  was  never  without  the  ever- 
lasting quid  pressing  out  his  cheek  like  a  walnut  in  a  squirrel's  mouth.  In 
a  word,  Bill  was  a  representative  blue-water  sailor. 

It  is  needless  to  go  into  the  details  of  the  provisions  stored  in  the 
schooner  for  a  cruise  of  two  months.  Everything  was  ready,  the  rigging 
overhauled,  the  last  nail  pounded  in ;  the  winds  were  favorable  ;  and  yet 
we  were  detained  at  Charlottetown  day  after  day,  unable  to  sail.  It  was  a 
cook  that  we  waited  for:  what  was  the  use  of  having  provisions,  fuel,  or 
galley,  without  a  cook?  A  sea-cook  is  a  peculiar  character,  requiring  a 
special  training.  He  must  know  how  to  prepare  a  sea  hash  out  of  salt 
horse  flavored  with  onions,  incrusted  with  the  variegated  browns  of  pol- 
ished mahogany,  and  savory  enough  to  create  an  appetite  in  a  stomach  that 
the  tossing  waves  have  rendered  as  sensitive  as  the  needle  of  a  compass. 
He  must  also  understand  how  to  make  eatable  bread,  and  take  his  duff  out 
of  the  kettle  on  Sunday  as  light  as  cotton  and  as  delicate  as  sponge-cake. 
Besides  this,  he  must  know  how  to  economize  in  the  use  of  water  and 
provisions ;  and,  more  difficult  yet,  he  must  contrive  to  keep  the  crew 
satisfied  with  the  mess  he  cooks  for  them,  while  at  the  same  time  he 
looks  out  sharply  for  the  interests  of  his  employer  and  the  captain.  He 
must  also  be  proof  against  the  worst  weather,  and  undeviatingly  punct- 
ual to  the  hours  of  meals.     It  goes  without  saying  that  it  is  not  an  easy 


i6 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


thing  to  find  such  a  paragon  in  the  galley ;  but  when  he  is  there,  he  is, 
next  to  the  captain,  by  far  the  most  important  character  on  board.  We 
had  made  up  our  minds  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  cook  in 
Chariottetown,  combining  such  exalted  qualifications,  who  would  be  will- 


Burning  Refuse  from  the  Lumber  Alills. 

ing  to  go  for  such  a  brief  cruise,  and  were  prepared  to  take  up  almost 
any  one  that  offered.  But  we  were  not  prepared  to  meet  such  a  gang 
of  shiftless,  shuffling,  vacillating,  prevaricating,  self-complacent,  exorbi- 
tant, and   utterly  good-for-nothing  varlets  as  those   who  applied  for  the 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  17 

position,  or  whom  we  discovered  after  chasing  through  the  lanes,  sailors' 
boarding-houses,  and  purlieus  of  Charlottetown.  Over  and  over  again 
we  thought  we  had  engaged  a  man  ;  but  when  the  time  came  to  sail, 
he  was  not  to  be  found.  At  last,  out  of  all  patience  with  the  whole 
business,  we  telegraphed  to  a  friend  in  St.  John,  New  Brunswick,  to  send 
us  a  cook,  and  that  we  wouid  pick  him  up  at  Point  du  Chene.  No  reply 
had  arrived  to  the  telegram  when  we  sailed,  and  thus  we  started  with- 
out a  cock,  in  a  sort  of  vain  hope  of  stumbling  across  one  at  some  port. 

A  group  of  our  good  friends  at  Charlottetown  came  down  to  the 
whari  to  give  us  a  send-off.  Healths  were  exchanged,  the  canvas  was 
spread,  and  we  shoved  off.  As  the  little  vessel  gathered  way  before  the 
southerly  breeze,  they  gave  a  parting  hurrah,  and  we  returned  the  salute 
by  emptying  our  revolvers  and  dipping  the  red  colors  and  jack  of  old 
England,  which  flew  at  the  mast-head. 

With  light  and  variable  winds,  we  reached  Summerside  the  next 
afternoon.  There  we  came  to  anchor,  and  went  on  shore  to  learn  if  there 
was  any  telegram  regarding  a  cook.  To  our  intense  relief,  we  learned 
that  we  should  find  one  at  Point  du  Chene,  waiting  for  us.  Here  we 
also  made  some  of  those  final  purchases  of  stores  which  are  likely  to  be 
forgotten  on  starting.  Then  we  hurried  on  board  and  made  sail.  There 
was  really  but  little  to  detain  us  at  Summerside.  It  is  a  new  place, 
which  sprang  up  mushroom-like,  and  soon  threatened  with  its  bustling 
prosperity  to  overtop  every  other  port  in  the  island.  But  its  growth 
stopped  before  it  could  become  beautified  by  the  slow  growth  of  ver- 
dure, and  it  is  now  a  mere  naked  cluster  of  warehouses  and  uninteresting, 
cheaply-constructed  dwellings.  But  it  is  situated  on  Bedecque  Bay,  a  lovely 
estuary  into  which  empties  the  Dunk  River,  whose  waters  are  the  delight 
of  the  disciples  of  the  gentle  craft.  Midway  in  the  bay  lies  Park  Island. 
Some  years  ago  a  capitalist  of  Summerside  conceived  the  idea  of  making 
this  island  a  summer  resort.  He  purchased  it,  and  in  its  center  built  a  com- 
modious hotel,  the  largest  in  Prince  Edward  Island.  Charming  walks  and 
drives  were  cut  through  the  groves,  bathing-houses  were  put  up  on  the 
beach,  and  numerous  other  attractions  were  offered  to  guests.  A  small 
steamer  was  bought  expressly  to  carry  them  over,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the 
place  ought  to  bring  a  profit  to  the  enterprising  proprietor  who  had  such 
confidence  in  the  charms  of  his  native  isle.  But  he  sunk  all  his  fortune  in 
this  ill-starred  enterprise,  and  his  anxieties  brought  him  to  an  early  grave. 
The  hotel,  standing  on  the  islet,  empty  and  deserted,  adds  a  tinge  of  dreari- 
ness to  an  otherwise  pleasing  picture. 

As  we  ran  up  the  strait  that  evening,  we  had  an  exciting  race  with  a 
2 


i8 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


schooner  bound  the  same  way,  having  a  number  of  boisterous  workmen  on 
board  going  to  the  mines.  She  was  close  alongside,  and  as  we  gained  on 
her  and  were  passing,  she  luffed  up,  being  able  to  shave  the  wind  a  little 
closer  than  the  Alice  May,  and  tried  to  run  us  down.  We  escaped  a  collision 
by  putting  the  helm  down  quickly.  Then  keeping  away,  we  passed  her  as 
a  strong  puff  gave  us  increased  headway ;  and  as  we  left  them  astern,  they 
gave  a  wild,  mocking  peal  of  laughter  that  had  in  it  a  touch  of  deviltry  as 


THE  CRUISE  OE   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


19 


it  rang  over  the  sea.  It  blew  fresh  that  night,  with  squalls,  and  we  took  in 
the  kites.  We  tound  the  schooner  stiff  and  able  to  carry  sail  hard.  That 
night,  as  the  previous  n  ght,  we  stood  our  watch  on  deck.  But  this  was 
interesting,  compared  with  the  responsibility  of  preparing  meals.  There 
were  four  of  us  in  the  main  s  'oon,  as  we  styled  it,  or  three  besides  the 
writer  of  this  log.  The  junior  member  of  the  party,  a  youth  of  sixteen, 
was  nicknamed  the  Infant.  Pendennis,  the  tallest  of  the  party,  went  by  the 
affectionate  sobriquet  of  the  Cherub,  probably  because  of  the  remoteness 


Millstone  Quarries. 


of  the  resemblance.  Then  there  was  my  companion  Burns,  who  was  already 
familiar  with  sea  life.  We  took  turns  in  preparing  the  meals,  one  of  the 
crew  being  delegated  to  light  the  fire.  We  found  it  convenient  to  culti- 
vate a  taste  for  ham  and  eggs  or  plain  boiled  eggs,  little  art  being  required 
to  cook  them.  The  cook  for  the  time  being  was  expected  to  get  his  wages 
in  chaff,  of  which  he  received  an  unUmited  amount  from  the  others.  Fortu- 
nately, we  all  knew  how  to  brew  a  good  cup  of  tea,  not  so  easy  an  accom- 
plishment as  some  might  imagine. 

It  began  to  blow  hard  after  midnight,  from  the  southwest.     The  morn- 


20  ^^^  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

ing  broke  with  a  very  wild  offing  and  the  promise  of  a  stormy  day.  But 
we  were  near  to  Point  du  Chene,  the  line  of  the  long,  low  shore  blending 
with  the  scurrying  scud  and  a  yeast  of  white  caps  flashing  angrily  in  the 
fierce  rays  that  shot  through  a  rift  in  the  clouds.  Lying  well  over  to  the 
blasts,  the  Alice  May  beat  up  toward  the  land,  and  there  was  every  prospect 
of  soon  reaching  a  snug  anchorage,  when  with  a  violent  shock  she  struck 
on  a  shoal.  The  first  thought  that  flashed  on  us  was.  Can  it  be  that  the 
cruise  is  going  to  end  just  as  it  begins  ?  But  the  emergency  called  for 
instant  action  rather  than  for  deliberation.  The  tide  had  yet  a  foot  to  rise, 
and  we  must  float  her  then  or  perhaps  never,  because  she  lay  in  a  very 
exposed  position,  and  a  shift  of  the  wind  to  southeast  would  have  finished 
her.  We  got  out  the  boat,  carried  an  anchor  well  out  to  starboard,  and 
bowsed  on  it  for  two  hours  with  no  result.  Meantime,  the  wind  had  shifted 
into  nor'west  and  was  blowing  a  perfect  screecher.  By  keeping  canvas  up, 
the  vessel  was  finally  pressed  well  over  on  her  side,  tending  to  move  the 
keel  and  float  her,  and  at  length  she  suddenly  started.  Then  it  was,  "  Heave 
away,  boys ;  be  smart,  now ! "  in  order  that  she  might  not  overrun  the  anchor 
as  she  slued  into  deep  water  and  began  to  gather  way  like  a  bird  released 
from  its  cage. 

We  now  ran  up  and  anchored  at  Point  du  Chene,  and  went  ashore  to  get 
the  cook.  But  no  cook  was  there.  We  learned  that  he  had  arrived,  but, 
not  finding  us,  had  unwisely  gone  on  in  the  boat  the  previous  day  to  Char- 
lottetown,  and  could  not  return  until  Monday.  Disappointment  is  a  feeble 
word  to  express  our  chagrin.  Point  du  Chene,  with  its  neighbor  Shediac, 
offers  few  attractions  to  the  tourist.  It  is  merely  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
"  oad,  where  the  steamboat  plying  to  Prince  Edward  Island  comes  during 
the  summer.  But  w^e  procured  some  fresh  meat,  took  in  a  little  more  bal- 
last to  counteract  a  list  to  starboard,  and  shipped  another  hand,  who  proved 
to  be  Tom,  the  son  of  Captain  Welch,  who  was  there  in  a  schooner.  We 
were  now  able  to  have  two  men  in  a  watch,  which  relieved  us  from  the 
necessity  of  passing  the  night  on  deck.  Monday  morning  we  rowed  in  the 
boat  up  the  river  to  Shediac,  a  delightful  sail.  There  we  found  the  tide  so 
low  we  could  not  come  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  beach,  even  with  our 
sixteen-foot  yawl.  Seeing  our  predicament,  a  crowd  of  bare-legged  urchins, 
about  the  age  and  shape  of  cupids,  floated  a  miniature  punt  off  to  us  ;  then, 
seizing  the  painter  with  great  glee  and  noisy  splashing,  they  towed  us  one  by 
one  to  the  shore.  The  air  rang  with  peals  of  laughter  from  the  bystanders  ; 
and  it  was  indeed  a  merry  sight,  and  comical  also,  for  the  punt  was  in  con- 
stant danger  of  spilling  out  its  occupant. 

At  one  o'clock  we  were  all  on  the  lookout  for  the  arrival  of  the  steamer 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


21 


Our  First  Fish, 


from  Summerside.  The  burning  question  of  the  hour  was  to  cook  or  not 
to  cook.  Would  the  cook  be  on  board  ?  Was  he  white,  black,  or  yellow, 
and  would  he  know  his  business  if  he  actually  came?  The  excitement 
grew  as  the  hour  approached.     The  steamer  hove  in  sight ;  she  ranged 


22 


THE  CRUISE  OF    THE  ALICE  MAY. 


up  to  the  pier ;  the  passengers  stepped  ashore,  and  after  a  brief  interval 
our  boat  was  seen  coming  off  with  a  third  man  in  the  stern  sheets.  It  must 
be  the  cook.  As  he  drew  nearer,  his  sable  complexion  not  only  settled 
the  question,  but  also  added  a  strong  probability,  amounting  almost  to  cer- 
tainty, that  he  was  a  good  cook.  Our  sr'mises  proved  to  be  correct  in 
just  one  minute  after  he  stepped  on  declv.  It  had  already  struck  eight 
bells. 

"  Have  you  had  your  dinner  yet,  sir?"  he  inquired. 


Our  Crew  at  Supper. 


"  No ;  we  have  been  waiting  for  you." 

"  All  right,  sir ;  you  shall  have  dinner  right  away." 

Stepping  into  the  galley  in  a  trice,  he  stripped  off  his  coat,  rolled  up 
his  sleeves,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  sat  down  to  the  best  meal  that  had  ever 
been  seen  on  board  the  Alice  May  since  she  left  the  stocks.  From  that  day 
to  the  hour  we  landed  again  in  Charlottetown,  Henry  Richards  proved 
himself  a  capital  cook,  provided  with  no  end  of  inventive  culinary  re- 
sources ;  he  was  indefatigable  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties,  sober  and 


THE  CRUISE  OF    THE  ALICE  MAY.  33 

faithful  to  the  interests  of  his  employers.  Happy  the  ship  that  sails  with 
such  a  cook,  and  happy  the  diners  who  batten  on  his  beefsteak  and  onions, 
hash,  roly-poly,  and  tea. 

At  sea,  action  and  reflection  go  hand  in  hand.  One  minute  after  he 
boarded  us  Henry  was  getting  dinner,  and  three  minutes  later  the  crew 
manned  the  windlass,  hove  the  anchor  short,  made  sail,  and  we  put  to  sea. 
We  had  a  staving  breeze  from  southeast  and  by  south,  and  bowled  away 
merrily  for  Miramichi.  After  night-fall  the  sky  became  very  dark,  and  it 
blew  heavily.  We  flew  before  sea  and  wind,  and  made  the  Escumenac 
light  in  the  middle  watch,  but  could  not  run  in  with  such  weather  without 
a  pilot.  We  hove  to  with  a  tremendous  sea  running,  the  darkness  aflame 
with  flashing  phosphorus,  and  the  little  schooner  pitching  her  jib-boom 
under  and  knocking  passengers  and  furniture  about  the  cabin  without  cere- 
mony. It  does  not  take  long  to  raise  a  high,  wall-like  swell  in  the  Gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence,  owing  to  the  shoal  water.  The  lights  of  other  vessels  in 
our  neighborhood,  bobbing  like  will-o'-the-wisps  in  the  gloom,  and,  like  us, 
waiting  for  dawn,  suggested  a  sharp  lookout.  At  intervals  the  long,  mel- 
ancholy cry  of  the  loons  floated  down  the  wind  like  the  wail  of  lost  spirits 
— a  sign  of  east  wind,  in  the  opinion  of  some — which  led  Captain  Welch 
to  observe  the  next  morning :  "  The  loons  was  a-crying  for  the  east  wind 
all  night."  r   r        M 

A  dapper  little  pilot  schooner  left  a  pilot  with  us  at  daylight,  and  we 
ran  across  the  bar,  where  a  vessel  was  lost  with  all  on  board  a  year  or  two 
ago  in  a  gale.  It  was  a  long  but  delightful  beat  up  the  Miramichi  River 
that  day.  After  leaving  the  broad  entrance,  we  found  the  river  winding, 
and  closed  in  with  lovely  overhanging  cliffs,  crested  with  verdure  which 
festooned  the  caves  that  honeycomb  the  rocks.  Picturesque  farms  on  the 
slopes,  surrounded  by  natural  groves  of  pine  and  spruce,  and  fishermen's 
huts  and  boats  under  the  cliffs,  gave  life  to  what  is  really  an  enchanting 
stream. 

Thirty  miles  from  the  sea,  we  at  last  anchored  at  Chatham,  the  wind 
blowing  in  violent  squalls,  which  terminated  in  a  tremendous  thunder- 
storm, attended  by  terrific  gloom.  When  the  clouds  cleared  away,  the 
glow  of  the  setting  sun  illumined  the  wxt  roofs  and  shipping  of  this 
bustling  little  place  with  wonderful  splendor.  Chatham,  as  well  as  New- 
castle, two  miles  farther  up  on  the  opposite  bank,  was  once  a  great  ship- 
building port.  This  business  has  left  it ;  but  a  great  lumber  trade  has 
sprung  up  instead,  which  brings  profit  to  the  neighborhood,  while  it  is 
rapidly  stripping  the  noble  primeval  woods  of  New  Brunswick.  Upward 
of  three  hundred  square-rigged  vessels  arrive  there  during  the  summer 


24  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

for  lumber,  chiefly  for  the  foreign  market.  The  appearance  of  the  town 
is  therefore  very  animated,  with  its  rafts  of  logs,  its  stagings  and  saw-mills, 
and  whar\es  lined  with  large  vessels  two  or  three  abreast.  In  1881  the 
feet  of  lumber  brought  down  the  southwest  boom  of  the  Miramichi 
reached  140,000,000.  At  night-time,  the  river  front  of  the  town  is  lurid 
with  the  vivid  flames  of  refuse  wood  burning  in  brick-lined  furnaces  along 
the  river.  Another  large  business  here  is  the  salmon  fishery.  Chatham  is 
on  the  railroad,  and  the  fish,  packed  in  ice,  are  sent  directly  to  the  United 
States.  Six  car-loads  have  been  for»varded  from  this  place  alone  in  one 
day.  The  time  for  catching  the  fish  is  from  May  ist  to  August  15th. 
Every  farmer  by  the  river  spreads  his  own  nets  in  the  water  opposite  his 
land,  and  owns  a  dug-out  to  land  the  fish.  During  the  winter  large  num- 
bers of  smelts  and  bass  are  also  caught  through  the  ice,  and  sent  by  rail  to 
our  markets. 

July  1 2th  we  filled  our  water-casks,  and,  in  company  with  a  fleet  of 
Swedish  and  Norwegian  lumber-laden  barks,  started  down  the  river.  The 
beauty  of  the  shores  induced  us  to  land  where  a  ^ang  of  laborers  was 
engaged  in  cutting  out  mill-stones,  which  are  an  important  source  of  profit 
at  Miramichi.  They  w^ere  at  work  in  a  romantic  spot  under  a  cliff,  and 
the  chck  of  their  mallets  rang  musically  with  the  plashing  of  the  dashing 
current.  A  little  farther  on,  our  boat  glided  into  a  fairy-like  cove.  A 
farmer  was  just  returning  from  his  nets  with  some  very  fine  salmon.  If 
we  were  like  some  fishermen,  we  might  say  we  caught  salmon  ourselves 
on  this  river.  But  truth  compels  the  more  prosaic  statement  that  all  the 
salmon  we  caught  on  the  Miramichi  we  bought  from  this  farmer.  He 
asked  us  to  climb  the  cliff  to  his  house,  which  we  found  superbly  situated 
on  the  brow  of  a  noble  lawn,  terminating  at  the  river  in  a  precipice.  The 
chubby,  flaxen-haired  children,  bareheaded  and  barefooted,  gathered  round 
to  stare  at  us,  with  their  hands  uneasily  clasped  behind  them,  as  we  sat 
in  ic  "  best  room."  The  venerable  grandmother  brought  us  a  large 
jug  full  of  fresh  milk  in  her  shaking  hand.  While  drinking  it,  we  could 
see  the  upper  sails  of  the  lumber  fleet  above  the  cliff  as  they  glided 
close  by  *he  land.  It  reminded  me  of  many  a  similar  and  familiar  scene 
on  the  Bosphorus.  I  could  not  but  marvel  that  some  of  our  people 
in  search  of  summer  resorts,  who  are  willing  to  go  to  the  River  St. 
Lawrence,  do  not  build  or  hire  houses  for  the  summer  on  this  charm- 
ing spot,  the  air  being  delightful,  i;he  scenery  exceptionally  attractive, 
salmon  and  trout  abundant,  and  the  cost  of  living  moderate.  "  It  would 
do  us  a  great  deal  of  good,  sir,  if  some  of  your  folks  in  the  States  who 
have  money  would  but  come  here  and  buy  our  lands  and  provisions," 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY,  25 

remarked  the  old  grandmother,  with  a  twinkle  in  her  gray  eyes,  as  we 
bid  her  good-by. 

With  a  leading  wind,  we  sailed  down  the  tortuous  channel  of  the  Mira- 
michi  and  crossed  the  bar,  with  a  rosy  light  of  evening  flushing  the  sails  of 
the  lumber  fleet.  One  of  them  we  left  behind.  She  grounded  in  the 
channel  at  high  water,  and  probably  had  to  throw  over  part  of  her  cargo. 
We  headed  now  for  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs.  The  weather  being  fine,  the 
crew  began  this  evening  the  habit  of  taking  their  meals  on  deck,  which 
they  did  after  this  whenever  the  weather  permitted.  It  was  an  interesting 
sight  to  watch  them  clustered  around  the  dishes,  which  were  placed  on 
the  after  part  of  the  trunk.  The  captain  had  a  separate  seat  at  the  head  of 
this  unique  table,  where  he  presided  with  patriarchal  dignity,  entertaining 
the  crew  with  yarns  from  his  own  varied  experience.  There  is  not  much 
attempt  at  discipline  on  these  down-east  coasters,  but  the  crew  are  con- 
trolled by  a  sort  of  family  arrangement.  The  captain  gives  the  orders  in 
an  easy  fashion,  and  the  men  sometimes  give  suggestions  regarding  the 
working  of  the  ship  which  would  procure  them  a  broken  head  if  attempt- 
ed on  a  square-rigged  vessel.  Captain  Welch  and  the  mate  had  an 
animated  and  by  no  means  amiable  discussion  one  day  regarding  the 
course  to  be  followed,  without  any  other  result  than  a  continuous  mutter- 
ing on  both  sides,  until  eight  bells  called  all  hands  to  supper.  The  south- 
west wind  prevails  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  during  the  summer  time. 
This  is  favorable  to  yachts  cruising  northward,  but  must  be  taken  into 
calculation  when  they  shape  a  course  for  home.  This  wind  is  generally 
quite  steady,  freshening  up  at  night ;  but  sometimes  it  increases  to  a  gale, 
followed  by  a  strong  westerly  wind  for  a  day  or  two.  But  no  dependence 
whatever  can  be  placed  upon  the  Gulf  weather  after  the  last  of  August. 
Favored  by  this  southerly  wind,  we  flew  northward  all  night,  and  the  tight 
little  schooner  put  in  her  "  best  licks,"  as  her  speed  was  tested  better  with 
a  free  wind.  The  wake  was  a  mass  of  gleaming  fo^am  interwoven  with 
magical  green,  white,  and  red  sparkles  that  seemed  to  come  up  like  stars 
from  the  black,  mysterious  depths  below.  The  galaxy,  or  "  milkmaid's 
path  "  as  sailors  call  it,  and  the  northern  lights  gleamed  at  the  opposite 
poles.  It  fell  calm  before  breakfast,  and  we  caught  a  number  of  cod.  The 
low  shore  of  N  w  Brun  vick  was  on  the  port  beam,  and  numerous  fishing 
boats  were  out.  As  we  passed  near  one  of  them  laden  with  lobsters,  we 
hailed  her  crew  in  French,  and  threw  them  ten  cents  fixed  in  the  split  end 
of  a  stick.  In  return  they  hurled  a  shower  of  lobsters  on  board,  which 
came  so  fast  on  deck  that  we  were  forced  to  duck  our  heads  below  the  rail 
to  avoid  being  hit  by  the  ugly  monsters.     We  thus  obtained  many  more 


26  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

lobsters  than  we  could  possibly  eat.  Never  have  I  seen  lobsters  cheaper 
or  fresher  than  these. 

At  noon  of  July  12th,  we  passed  the  octagonal  light-house  on  the  low, 
sandy  point  at  the  northern  end  of  Shipegan  Island,  and  were  fairly  in  the 
Bay  of  Chaleurs.  Twenty  miles  across  loomed  the  lofty  northern  shores 
of  the  bay,  beautiful  ranges  of  mountains  with  jagged  peaks  melting 
dreamily  into  the  thunderous  clouds  brooding  ominously  in  the  north. 
The  southern  shores  of  the  bay  are  much  lower  and  less  interesting,  and 
offer  only  one  safe  harbor,  Bathurst ;  and  that  is  exposed  to  northerly 
gales.  Caraquette  is  only  good  for  light-draught  fishing  craft.  The  glas'j 
was  now  falling,  and  the  baffling  winds  indicated  a  blow  by  u'jhL-uine. 
The  Bay  of  Chaleurs  is  ninety  miles  long,  and  is  a  dangerous  sheet  of 
water  in  easterly  winds.  But  it  is  free  from  shoals,  and  has  a  good  bottom 
excepting  near  the  southern  entrance,  and  there  is  good  holding  ground 
everywhere  near  to  the  northern  coast.  The  famous  Restigouche  River, 
coming  from  the  gorges  of  Gaspe  county,  empties  into  the  bay  at  its  west- 
ern end,  near  Dalhousie.  A  number  of  other  streams,  such  as  the  Chariot, 
the  Bass,  and  Tete  a  Gauche,  also  find  an  outlet  here.  They  abound  in 
fine  trout  and  salmon — a  fact  which  renders  this  region  important  for 
sportsmen,  who  are  already  beginning  to  flock  thither  during  the  summer. 
The  bay  has  also  been  a  noted  resort  of  American  fishermen  on  account  of 
its  mackerel.  But  the  fish  are  now  scarce,  which,  together  with  the 
restrictions  of  the  treaty  laws,  has  drawn  away  the  American  fishing 
schooners  which  once  resorted  to  these  waters  by  hundreds.  Owing  to  its 
size,  it  has  been  a  disputed  question  between  the  two  governments 
whether  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs  should  be  considered  a  bay  or  part  of  the 
open  sea — a  matter  of  importance  in  the  sea  fisheries.  The  bay  was 
discovered  by  Jacques  Cartier,  who  probably  suffered  from  the  heat  there, 
judging  from  the  name  he  gave  it.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  defeat  of  a 
French  fleet  by  the  English  in  1760. 

The  weather  became  very  thick  after  sunset,  with  a  strong  easterly 
breeze.  We  kept  a  good  lookout,  and  had  a  narrow  escape  from  collision 
with  a  French  schooner.  As  they  swept  by  they  hailed  us  in  French,  and 
our  mate  flung  a  few  choice  French  epithets  in  return.  At  midnight  the 
wind  shifted  into  the  nor' west  and  blew  a  fresh  gale,  with  a  nasty  sea. 
The  Alice  May  beat  up  against  it  nobly.  It  was  now  a  clear  starlight,  and 
it  was  exciting  to  see  the  little  vessel  bending  over  to  her  scuppers  in  the 
gray  sea  and  flinging  sheets  of  spray  over  her  cat-heads. 

A  magnificent  dawn  succeeded  this  variable  night,  and  as  the  sun 
burst  above  the  sea,  it  revealed  a  truly  remarkable  scene.    A  slope  of 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


27 


i"W^ 


Iiungitudo  'VVwt  of    54    Grwinwuh 


'ie  Kfiullf 

li     E     N     C    E 


t 


extraordinary  regularity,  as  if  it  had  been  smoothed  with  a  roller,  was 
discovered  extending  some  fifteen  miles  along  the  sea,  where  it  terminated 
in  an  unbroken  line  of  red  cliffs  from  forty  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  This 
fine  slope  was  covered  with  a  carpet  of  a  vivid  emerald  hue.  At  the  base 
of  the  "?d,  cavern-hollowed  cliffs  rolled  the  sea,  deep-purple  and  blue. 
This  slope  was  outlined  against  a  distant  range  of  violet-tinted  mountains 
limned  against  an  opalescent  sky.  It  was  indeed  a  noble  and  exhilarating 
prospect.  But  it  was  rendered  yet  more  remarkable  by  a  line  of  houses 
extending  for  nearly  six  miles 
along  the  crest  of  the  slope.  The 
rising  sun  smote  full  on  these 
dwellings,  and,  at  the  distance 
we  were  from  them,  they  looked 
like  the  tents  of  an  army  en- 
camped there ;  and,  indeed,  I 
thought  at  first  it  might  be  the 
camp  of  militia  taking  their  sum- 
mer exercises.  But  when  the 
sun  struck  the  windows  of  these 
houses,  they  flashed  like  stars 
over  the  sea  or  like  beaten  gold. 
As  we  drew  nearer  to  the 
land,  we  made  out  a  long,  low 
point,  covered  with  white  build- 
ings and  terminating  in  a  light- 
house, the  effect  being  that  of  a 
sea-walled  town  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean. Then  we  knew  that  we 
were  off  the  French  town  of 
Paspebiac.  It  had  all  the  rapt- 
ure of  a  surprise  for  us,  because 
never  before  that  morning  had 

I  heard  of  the  place.  It  really  seemed  as  if  it  might  be  an  exhalation 
from  the  sea,  a  vision  of  the  morning,  doomed  to  fade  away  as  the  sun 
rose  higher  in  the  heavens.  But  the  keen  gusts  off  the  land,  singing 
through  the  rigging  of  our  bending  barkie,  soon  brought  us  so  near  there 
was  no  longer  any  room  to  doubt  that  we  had  hit  upon  an  important  and 
beautiful  town.  We  anchored  off  the  spit,  but  soon  slipped  around  to  the 
other  side,  where  we  again  anchored  in  a  roadstead  protected  from  east- 
erly winds,  and  reasonably  safe  in  summer  from  winds  blowing  in  other 


Map  of  the   Ttip  from  Charlottetown  to  Paspebiac. 


28  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

quarters.  With  our  usual  expedition  we  immediately  had  the  boat  put 
into  the  water  and  went  on  shore.  The  light-house  and  an  old  wreck 
bleaching  near  to  it  on  the  sandy  beach  first  impressed  us  as  being  artisti- 
cally available,  as  the  genial  editor  would  say  regarding  a  manuscript 
upon  which  he  is  disposed  to  bestow  the  smile  of  acceptance.  Having 
sketched  these  objects,  we  adjourned  to  the  Lion  Inn  to  dine.  This  quaint 
little  hostel  is  on  the  point,  with  water  close  on  either  hand.  A  one-time 
much  gilded  lion,  but  now  somewhat  rusty,  wagged  his  tufted  tail  fero- 
ciously over  the  door,  and  a  green  settle  on  either  side  invited  the  guest 
to  an  out-of-door  seat  overlooking  the  bay.  The  buxom  landlady  was  a 
fair-complexioned,  tidy,  blue-eyed  dame  from  the  isle  of  Jersey.  Wear- 
ing a  huge  sun-bonnet,  she  was  feeding  her  chickens  in  the  road  as  we 
approached.  She  served  us  a  simple  but  savory  repast  in  a  cozy,  low- 
roofed  dining-room  resembling  a  ship's  cabin  ;  through  the  open  windows 
the  sea-breeze  wafted  the  roar  of  the  sea,  and  we  could  look  on  the  blue 
of  the  ocean  fading  away  to  distant  lands.  Everything  was  delightfully 
unexpected  and  charming.  Sea  life  is  made  up  of  such  contrasts.  But 
a  few  hours  before,  we  were  groping  in  a  fog,  grappling  with  a  storm  and 
shc-tening  sail ;  and  now  we  were  enjoying  this  peaceful  hour  in  a  tran- 
quil haven. 


II. 


AT  the  close  of  the  preceding  chapter  we  were  about  entering  upon 
an  inspection  of  Paspebiac.  As  the  name  indicates,  this  was,  first 
of  all,  an  Indian  settlement,  probably  of  the  Gaspesian  tribe.  The 
terminal  ac  is  indicative  of  place,  like  the  affixes  eck  or  ccque  and  adie  em- 
ployed by  the  Micmacs.  The  French  came  next,  followed  by  thj:  Nor- 
mans of  the  Channel  Islands.  It  is  to  these  that  this  straggling,  thriving 
town  of  three  thousand  people  owes  its  present  existence  and  success.  We 
had  never  heard  of  the  place  before,  and  yet  here  it  has  existed  for  centu- 
ries, a  center  of  business  and  a  wonder  of  beauty,  on  the  supposed  bleak 
shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs.  We  found  the  key-note  of  the  whole  matter 
immediately  on  landing.  One  hundred  and  forty  years  ago  some  capital- 
ists of  St.  Helier's  came  over  from  Jersey  and  established  a  depot  for  cod- 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  29 

fishing  on  the  inner  shore  of  the  point  of  Paspebiac,  where  boats  could 
liind  with  safety  in  ordinary  weather.  Since  then,  empires  have  arisen  and 
fallen,  our  own  great  republic  has  come  into  existence  and  has  grown  to 
its  present  dimensions,  and  still  the  firm  of  Robin  &  Co.  carries  on  its  busi- 
ness with  the  vitality  of  youth,  and  with  steadiness  of  purpose  and  entire 
unconcern  regarding  the  rest  of  the  world  and  its  affairs.  Not  only  does 
the  original  family  of  Robin  maintain  itself  at  Paspebiac  to  this  day,  but  it 
has  thirteen  other  establishments  as  complete  as  this  one  at  various  points 
in  the  maritime  provinces,  all  conducted  with  the  same  system  and  disci- 
pline. We  saw  several  of  these  depots  at  other  ports  during  our  cruise,  and 
can  therefore  say  that  the  one  at  Paspebiac  is  typical  of  the  whole.  A 
lofty  fence  with  gates  incloses  the  establishment.  Within  are  immense 
buildings  for  storing  the  fish  and  storehouses  for  all  the  materials  that  go 
to  the  building  and  victualing  of  ships,  besides  smithies  and  carpenters' 
shops,  a  large  kitchen  and  eating-hall,  a  telegraph  office,  and  the  houses  of 
the  overseer  and  chief  employes.  On  the  harbor  side  are  extensive 
wharves,  landings,  cranes,  and  the  like,  built  of  soUd  masonry  and  iron. 
There  is  nothing  flimsy  about  the  materials  and  construction  of  any  object 
about  the  place.  The  extraordinary  neatness  of  everything  is  like  that  of 
a  Dutch  house.  There  is  not  even  the  odor  of  stale  fish,  or  of  any  fish  at 
all.  The  workmen  wear  a  uniform — consisting  of  white  trousers  and  blue 
blouse  and  cap — and  thereby  strengthen  the  first  thought  that  occurs  on 
seeing  the  place,  that  it  must  be  an  arsenal.  This  impression  is  re-enforced 
by  the  cannon  ranged  on  the  quay,  and  by  the  fierce  figure  of  a  Scotch 
Highlander  brandishing  his  claymore  from  the  gable  of  the  central  build- 
ing, which  was  once  the  figure-head  of  one  of  the  company's  ships.  The 
discipline  of  a  man-of-war  is  also  strictly  preserved  here.  The  employes 
enter  in  boyhood  and  work  their  way  up.  Here  it  is,  in  this  yard,  that 
the  firm  builds  the  fleet  which  it  employs  to  carry  the  fish  to  the  markets 
of  Europe  and  South  America.  No  finer  fish  leave  the  shores  of  North 
America  for  the  feeding  of  good  Roman  Catholics  on  fast  days.  Few  peo- 
ple have  reflected  on  the  fact  that  one  of  the  most  important  occupations 
followed  by  men  is  almost  wholly  dependent  on  the  religious  beliefs  of  one 
sect.  The  small  amount  of  salt  cod  eaten  by  Protestants  is  not  worth 
mentioning  compared  with  the  amount  absorbed  by  Roman  Catholics. 
Besides  their  ships  for  foreign  transportation,  the  Robins  also  have  a  large 
number  of  schooners  and  boats  directly  engaged  in  catching  the  fish. 
Most  of  the  fishermen  in  their  employ  are  poor,  and,  as  they  are  paid  in 
kind,  they  are  largely  in  the  power  of  this  great  monopoly.  As  one  result, 
it  is  very  difficult  to  purchase  land  at  Paspebiac,  because  a  large  part  of 


so 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY, 


the  freeholds  there  are  mortgaged  to  Robin  &  Co.  on  account  of  advances 
made  to  the  fishermen. 

Adjoining  the  establishment  of  Robin  &  Co.  is  a  similar  but  less  exten- 
sive fish  depot,  belonging  to  the  firm  of  Le  Boutillier,  who  are  also  a  Jer- 
sey company,  transacting  their  affairs  in  the  Dominion  by  means  of  expe- 
rienced factors.  The  original  founder  of  the  house  was  trained  by  Robin 
&  Co.,  and,  having  a  difference  with  them,  started  a  rival  house,  which  is 
conducted    with  similar   system  and  owns  three  or   four  stations.     The 


Fishermen  at  Paspebiac. 


gradual  dying  out  of  the  Le  Boutillier  family  indicates,  however,  the  ap- 
proaching extinction  of  this  firm.  To  an  American  familiar  with  the  fish- 
ing business  of  Gloucester,  Massachusetts,  who  imagines  that  the  enterprise 
of  that  thriving  port  has  contrived  to  absorb  a  monopoly  of  the  cod-fisher- 
ies of  the  world,  there  is  somethmg  rather  mortifying  in  considering  for 
the  first  time  such  an  establishment  as  the  one  I  have  described  ;  for  it 
shows  that  we  have  yet  a  few  things  to  learn  in  regard  to  making  a  business 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  3 1 

at  once  prosperous  and  permanent.  I  met  a  man  once  in  England  who 
was  traveling  for  a  tobacco  house  that  was  established  in  the  time  of  Queen 
Elizabeth  and  was  still  engaged  in  making  money.  After  all,  there  is  a 
majesty  and  dignity  in  the  grand  fact  of  permanency  that  is  worth  striving 
for,  in  a  world  and  an  age  that  is  ever  shifting.  We  like  to  dream  some- 
times that  not  "  virtue  alone  outlives  the  Pyramids." 

After  having  been  shown  about  the  establishment  of  Robin  &  Co.,  we 
turned  our  attention  to  other  matters  of  interest  at  Paspebiac,  and  found 
that  it  abounds  in  natural  attractions.  The  sandy  point  is  really  an  island 
at  high  water,  and  a  substantial  bridge  connects  it  with  the  main-land. 
Near  to  the  bridge  are  the  residences  occupied  by  the  members  of  the  two 
fishing  firms,  when  at  Paspebiac,  or  by  their  agents.  The  Robin  mansion 
is  near  the  foot  of  the  slope,  completely  surrounded  by  a  lovely  grove 
agreeably  intersected  with  winding  paths.  The  Le  Boutillier  house,  on 
the  other  hand,  is  on  the  brow  of  the  rich  brown  cliff,  superbly  situated, 
and  commanding  an  outlook  over  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs.  It  is  approached 
from  the  road  through  a  double  avenue  of  noble  willows,  which  were  im- 
ported, we  were  informed,  from  Jersey.  There  is  not  a  private  residence 
in  the  Dominion  which  occupies  a  finer  site  for  a  summer  villa.  From  the 
bridge,  the  road  rises  abruptly  until  it  reaches  the  crest  of  the  slope.  There 
it  meets  a  post  road,  or  street,  running  along  that  height  for  twenty  miles 
toward  Dalhousie.  It  is  along  this  road  that  the  town  of  Paspebiac,  occu- 
pied by  French  habitants,  is  laid  out  in  an  extended  street,  which  contin- 
ues until  it  reaches  the  charming  semi-aristocratic  hamlet  of  New  Carlisle, 
which  is  occupied  by  Scotch  people,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  court-house,  a  jail, 
and  the  residence  of  the  judge. 

We  decided  that  we  could  get  over  more  ground  that  afternoon  by 
means  of  a  carriage  than  on  foot.  But  the  only  vehicle  to  be  found  was  a 
ramshackle  open  carry-all  belonging  to  the  postmaster — a  jolly,  vivacious 
little  Frenchman,  whose  excellent  English  speech  was  yet  curiously  char- 
acterized by  an  accent.  The  horse  was  a  fit  subject  for  the  attention  of 
Henry  Bergh,  and  the  carriage  was  so  ancient  and  dilapidated  that  ihe 
spring  broke  down  and  the  floor  split  with  the  weight  of  five  healthy  men. 
But  we  had  a  delightful  ride  to  New  Carlisle,  for  all  that.  The  afternoon 
was  so  fine  that  it  seemed  to  have  an  invigorating  effect  on  the  piety  of 
the  local  clergy.  We  met  the  Presbyterian  minister,  the  Episcopal  vicar, 
and  the  cur^,  all  engaged  in  making  pastoral  visits.  The  first  was  in  a 
buggy  accompanied  by  his  wife.  The  other  gentlemen,  in  spotless  garb, 
trudged  along  the  highway,  aloi.c  and  on  foot,  after  apostolic  fashion.  The 
physician  was  also  making  his  rounds  on  a  buckboard.     On  our  return,  the 


32 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


postmaster  invited  us  into  his  humble  cottage,  which  was  typical  of  all  the 
houses  at  Paspebiac.  His  best  room  was  decorated  with  cheap  images 
and  prints  of  the  Virgin.  The  office  was  in  a  small  adjoining  apartment. 
When  a  letter  was  to  be  mailed,  it  was  taken  at  the  door  by  some  one  of 
the  family.  We  noticed  here,  as  well  as  in  almost  every  other  house  in  the 
town,  and,  in  fact,  throughout  that  region,  that  the  windows  were  always 
kept  tightly  closed,  even  at  midday  with  the  mercury  at  seventy-five  to 
eighty-five  degrees.  Consequently,  the  air  inside  is  stuffy  and  oppressive. 
For  those  who  may  like  to  visit  Paspebiac,  it  may  be  well  to  add  that  it 
can  be  reached  by  the  stage-coach  from  Dalhousie,  which  makes  the  dis- 


The  Beach  at  Paspebiac. 


A    View  of  the  Bay. 


tance  of  eighty-two  miles  thrice  a  week;  time,  twenty -two  hours.  Better 
still,  there  is  a  steamer  from  Dalhousie  semi-weekly,  which  touches  there 
in  its  trip  around  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs.  As  we  were  passing  along  the  road 
at  four  o'clock,  the  village  school  broke  up  and  the  children  bounded  forth 
full  of  glee,  the  boys  separating  into  one  group  and  the  girls  into  another. 
But  it  was  beautiful  to  see  them  come  to  a  sudden  stop  when  thoy  met  us, 
the  boys  in  a  row  on  one  side  of  the  road  and  the  girls  on  the  other.  Then, 
with  the  utmost  respect,  the  former  bowed,  while  the  latter  demurely 
courtesied.     Having  accomplished  this  feat,  they  all  ran  off  again  in  a-  de- 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


33 


lightful  manner.     After  all,  we  can  learn  a  little  from  the  Latins,  without 
being  untrue  to  our  Anglo-Saxon  convictions. 

The  following  day  being  Saturday,  we  had  a  capital  opportunity  to  see 
the  habitants  of  Paspebiac  in  their  best  attire,  for  that  is  their  market  day. 
This  really  means,  in  that  place,  that  on  that  day  the  two  fishing  firms 
make  advances  of  goods  to  the  families  of  the  fishermen  they  employ. 
The  women  came  in  groups,  the  matrons  garrulous  with  gossip  as  they 
straggled  down  the  road  with  the  heavy  swinging  gait  which  they  have 
inherited  from  the  peasants  of  France.  It  is  curious  how  the  peasant 
classes  change  their  step  with  age,  the  light  tripping  of  the  young  maiden 
turning  into  a  long,  ungainly  stride.  The  piquant  brunettes,  still  in  the 
morning  of  life,  also  collected  thither  in  clusters,  toileted  in  their  best,  and 


A  Fish  Establishment  at  Paspebiac. 


giggling  and  blushing  wi^h  zest  when  some  handsome  young  fisherman 
went  by,  throwing  a  sentimental  glance  in  their  direction,  or  venturing 
some  sally  of  rustic  wit.  Many  came  in  rude  carts,  drawn  by  oxen  or 
mares  followed  b}^  their  colts.  Across  the  bridge  or  fording  the  inlet, 
these  simple  folk  came  in  a  steady  stream  until  toward  noon.  It  was,  for 
all  the  world,  like  a  bit  of  France,  for  these  French  habitants  change  far 
less  from  the  original  type  than  the  English  settlers.  Later  in  the  day 
there  was  a  general  movement  to  the  other  end  of  the  point,  where  the 
fish-market  was  held  on  the  beach.  Dogs,  swine,  geese,  fowls,  men,  women, 
children,  carts  and  oxen  were  here  gathered  indiscriminately  on  the  sand 
by  the  surf,  in  a  promiscuous  and  chattering  crowd  around  the  stands, 

3 


34  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

where  fresh  fish  were  being  cleaned  for  sale.  A  merry  sensation  was 
produced  when  a  boisterous  youth  dashed  by  at  a  tearing  gallop  on  horse- 
back, shouting  Yankee  Doodle  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  This  was  intended 
as  a  salvo  for  us,  the  first  American  tourists,  possibly,  who  had  ever 
been  to  Paspebiac.  A  gentleman  connected  with  the  custom-house,  which 
is  a  wee  bit  of  a  hut,  officiates  as  United  States  consular  agent,  and  war- 
very  polite  to  us.  But  it  is  a  question  whether  his  annual  fees  amount  to 
enough  to  pay  for  the  matches  for  lighting  his  pipe.  ' 

Some  of  our  party  were  enthusiastic  anglers,  and  the  afternoon  was 
therefore  devoted  to  a  long  and  heated  walk  to  a  trout  brook,  where  those 
sportive  fish  were  reported  to  be  actually  pining  to  be  caught.  The  rods 
and  flies  were  of  the  best  quality,  and  they  were  wielded  by  fishermen  of 
skill  and  experience.  The  net  results  of  the  trip  amounted,  however,  to 
only  half  a  dozen  five-inch  trout.  We  were  told  that,  in  a  lake  beyond,  the 
trout  were  so  numerous  there  was  hardly  room  for  them  to  swim  without 
scraping  the  scales  off  their  backs  as  they  jostled  each  other.  But  the 
enthusiasm  of  r-x-  fishermen  being  now  at  its  ebb,  we  returned  to  the 
schooner  and  ordered  the  captain  to  make  sail. 

If  the  wind  had  been  favorable,  we  should  have  continued  up  to  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs.  But  it  was  a  long  beat  with  the  stiff  north- 
west wind  that  was  blowing  at  the  time,  and  other  and  more  distant  scenes 
forbade  us  to  linger  here.  Therefore  we  put  the  helm  up  and  ran  to  the 
eastward.  The  wind  was  fresh,  and  the  schooner  was  staggering  under 
the  pressure  of  her  kites,  and  required  delicate  steering.  Rapidly  we  flew 
past  the  beautiful  northern  shore  of  the  bay,  the  jagged  peaks  assuming 
the  loveliest  of  tints  in  the  light  of  the  sun,  now  nearing  the  west.  But 
our  race  was  suddenly  checked.  I  was  looking  through  the  glass  at  a 
schooner  two  miles  away,  when  I  saw  that  she  was  sailing  with  a  different 
wind.  Hardly  had  I  time  to  sing  out  to  the  captain,  *'  The  wind's  coming 
out  ahead  ! "  than  our  vessel  was  taken  sharp  aback.  Everything  was  at 
once  in  confusion.  "  Let  go  the  guy  tackle  !  "  "  Take  in  the  stay-sail !  " 
"  Haul  aft  the  main-sheet !  "  were  orders  quickly  given,  and  in  another 
minute  the  Alice  May  was  heeling  well  over,  and  pitching  in  a  head-sea. 
Now  occurred  a  series  of  magnificent  marine  effects.  Brief  squalls  of 
wind  am!  rain  followed  in  quick  succession ;  the  cliffs  and  the  sea  were 
alternately  black  v/ith  brooding  gloom  or  gleaming  with  blinding  bursts  of 
sunlight ;  rainbows  hung  on  the  skirts<»of  the  clouds  in  the  offing,  and  the 
driving  masses  of  cumuli  were  warmed  by  glorious  hues.  Then  succeeded 
a  sight  not  uncommon  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  but  which,  wherever 
seen,  inspires  the  beholder  with  awe.     The  sea  in  the  distance  appeared 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


35 


suddenly  to  roll  up  with  a  high,  angry  surge,  advancing  rapidly  toward  us 
as  if  it  would  overwhelm  the  vessel,  and  naturally  suggesting  that  a  very 
strong  wind  was  coming.  But  it  advanced  no  farther,  always  preserving 
the  same  appearance,  as  if  held  back  by  some  mysterious  agency  ;  and  we 


■^""s^.: 


."*''' 


/"J 


%i' 


*^a^^'^^5r? ,-;"--  r  -_-.■_       -  ^^-                1 

'.'■   ■--'  ^\ 

'  ..  ^ 

-    -*. 

-r- 

-)' 

''3r?'  - 


-'^'^m. 


-,-'.:.--^>^ 


^^^^: 


Cape  Gasp^. 


■r      .-     -v-/*- 


v-    Mt- 


^-*V 


i^rS-fe-- 


now  perceived  that  it 
was  a  form  of  mirage, 
probably  reflecting 
the  surf  breaking  on 
a  distant  shore.  The 
turbulence  of  the 
elements  subsided  al- 
most as  soon  as  it  had 
arisen,  and  then  we 
had  barely  enough 
wind  to   waft  us    to 

Port  Daniel.  The  anchorage  herebeing  very  exposed,  we  did  not  remain 
there,  but  only  "  looked  in,"  as  sailors  say.  This  is  a  fishing  village,  situ- 
ated around  a  deep  cove,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  highest  and 
most  abrupt  peaks  on  the  bay.     The  church  occupies  a  hillock  at  the 


Fishing-Houses  at  Cape  GaspS. 


36  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

bottom  of  the  cove,  and  the  houses  are  beautifully  situated  on  precipitous 
slopes  and  ledges. 

Light  and  baffling  airs  now  followed,  and  we  spent  the  greater  part  of 
Sunday  off  Cape  Despair.  There  was  a  most  exasperating  glassy  swell, 
which  tumbled  the  vessel  about  unmercifully.  It  is  said  that  this  swell  very 
rarely  goes  down  at  this  part  of  the  Gulf.  In  the  morning  Captain  Welsh 
sat  at  the  wheel  reading  his  prayer-book  while  steering.  He  was  in  one 
of  his  communicative  moods,  and  spun  yarn  for  some  time.  He  expressed 
the  emphatic  opinion  that  "  tobacco  is  good  for  )me  folks."  He  was  sure 
it  had  been  a  benefit  to  him  in  the  long  night  watches  and  the  life  struggle 
with  storms.  All  day  long,  the  grandly  bold,  abrupt  precipices  of  Mt.  St. 
Anne  at  Perce  towered  before  us  like  a  mighty  fortress,  guarding  the 
double  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs  and  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  At 
its  foot  is  the  lofty  island  of  Bonaventure,  around  which  we  passed  with  a 
light  air  on  the  night  of  July  17.  At  sunrise  we  were  close  to  the  tre- 
mendous rock  of  Perce,  and  could  see  the  long,  low  outline  of  Anticosti  in 
the  north  like  a  gray  wall.  In  the  opinion  of  our  captain,  the  heavy  swell 
made  it  inexpedient  to  anchor  at  Perce,  which  is  very  exposed.  We  kept 
on  across  Mai  Bay,  past  a  low,  fiat  islet  which  the  French  call  Plateau, 
and  the  English  fishermen  Plato,  which  is  evidently  a  corruption  of  the 
former  word.  A  number  of  large  fishing  stations  are  here,  and  the  fleet 
of  fishing  boats  was  now  seen  shooting  out  from  the  coves  after  the  cod 
which  abound  in  this  bay.  These  boats  are  large,  and  are  manned  by  two 
men ;  they  are  rigged  with  three  spritsails  and  a  jib,  which  gives  them 
the  jauntiest  look  of  all  the  fishing  boats  on  the  coast  of  America.  This 
matter  of  the  rig  and  build  of  fishing  boats  is  very  curious.  It  is  easy  to 
see  that  the  character  of  a  certain  beach  or  of  the  prevailing  weather  may 
in  a  given  locality  affect  the  shape  of  the  boat ;  but  why  there  should  be 
such  differences  in  rig  is  incomprehensible.  The  fishing  boats  of  every 
port  we  visited  had  their  peculiar  rig  and  sails.  W^e  can  understand  how 
whim  may  incline  this  or  that  man  to  prefer  one  rig  to  another ;  but  why 
all  the  boats  of  one  port  should  uniformly  have  one  rig,  while  in  the  very 
port  adjoining  all  the  boats  have  entirely  another  rig,  is  a  matter  which  is 
not  easily  explained. 

As  the  wind  died  away,  we  anchored  near  the  southern  side  of  Gaspe 
Bay  to  avoid  drifting.  Water-fowl  abounded.  In  endless  flocks  the  ducks 
fly  at  morning  to  the  fen-lands  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  return  at  night 
to  roost  amid  the  rocks  of  Perce.  We  went  on  shore  and  succeeded  in 
bagging  a  few  ducks  and  sea-pigeons  under  the  cliffs  ;  after  which  we 
climbed  up  the  heights  to  a  farmhouse  and  procured  some  milk.     The 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE   ALICE  MAY. 


n 


people  could  not  speak  English.  The  babies  and  the  sucking  pigs  were 
tumbling  over  each  other  under  the  table  in  affectionate  embrace.  Outside 
was  the  oven,  a  characteristic  feature  of  domestic  civilization  in   Gasp6 

County.  It  is  built  thus:  A  flat  slab  of 
limestone  is  laid  on  four  posts,  and  a 
dome  of  clay  is  built  over  it.  This  in 
turn  is  protected  from  the  rains  by  a 
thatched  roof.  These  rustics  were 
specimen  bricks  of  the  people  who  live 
around  the  bay.  The  population  of 
this  part  of  Canada  is  confined  wholly 
to  the  coast.     Civilization  ceases  a  mile 


Head  of  an  Old  Pilot. 


Up  Gaspe  Bay. 


or  two  inland,  and  the  bear,  the  caribou,  and  the  panther  still  roam 
through  the  primeval  woods  which  cover  the  mountain  ranges  of  the  inte- 
rior. The  aborigines  of  this  region  were  the  Gaspesian  Indians,  who  now 
appear  to  be  entirely  extinct. 

A  breeze  springing  up  toward  noon,  we  stood  across  the  bay  to  Cape 
Gaspe,  a  noble  gray  headland  three  hundred  feet  high,  which  from  one 
point  looks  like  the  front  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  By  keeping  past  it  a 
short  distance,  we  entered  the  River  St.  Lawrence  and  saw  Cape  Rozier,  a 
tremendous  precipice  soaring  seven  hundred  feet  vertically.  Cape  Gasp6 
takes  the  full  brunt  of  all  the  gales  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  been  the 
scene  of  many  wild  and  appalling  wrecks.     Some  years  ago,  on  a  stormy 


38  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

night,  the  tide  being  unusually  high,  a  vessel  was  swept  against  the  cliff, 
and,  of  course,  entirely  destroyed.  The  event  never  would  have  been 
known  if  the  bowsprit  had  not  been  discovered  in  a  cleft  of  the  rock,  far 
above  the  usual  level  of  the  sea,  together  with  remains  of  the  bodies  of 
the  crew.  After  this  we  stood  up  the  bay,  along  the  northern  shore.  For 
several  miles  the  cliffs  are  seamed  with  deep  fissures,  as  if  the  beach  had 
been  partitioned  off  by  walls  into  retired  marine  alcoves  with  soft,  sandy 
floors,  where  the  mermaids  could  perform  their  toilets  in  seclusion.  But, 
generally,  these  recesses  are  occupied  b}'  curious  and  often  highly  pictur- 
esque fish-drying  houses,  built  over  the  water  on  extensive  stagings.  An 
extraordinary  accident  occurred  here  thirty  years  ago.  A  ship  bound  up 
to  Quebec  grounded  off  these  cliffs  in  a  fog.  The  wind  was  light,  but 
there  was  a  high  swell,  which  made  it  dangerous  to  land.  Fifteen  gentle- 
men,  however,  concluded  to  go  on  shore,  and  with  the  boat's  crew  got  into 
the  boat  before  it  was  lowered.  One  of  the  poles  broke,  and  they  were  all 
precipitated  into  the  water.  The  tide  drew  them  under  the  ship,  and  they 
were  all  drowned  before  the  very  eyes  of  their  wives  and  children.  Some 
weeks  after,  a  fisherman  caught  a  cod  in  whose  maw  was  a  man's  finger, 
with  the  diamond  ring  yet  glittering  on  the  severed  joint. 

Here  we  landed  to  sketch  the  fish-houses.  The  shores  were  very 
precipitous,  and  it  required  some  circumspection  to  climb  up  where  the 
houses  of  the  country  folk  are  perched.  We  had  some  difficulty  on  return- 
ing to  the  schooner,  as  the  wind  had  risen,  creating  a  high  sea  rolling  in 
from  the  Gulf,  and  the  schooner  was  handled  in  such  a  clumsy  manner  that 
the  boat  was  in  serious  danger  of  being  run  down.  Our  crew  were  not 
accustomed  to  this  sort  of  service.  There  was  yet  time  to  reach  Gaspe 
before  dark  if  the  strong  breeze  held,  which  was  sweeping  us  up  the  bay. 
Near  Port  Douglas,  where  General  Wolfe  anchored  his  fleet  on  his  way  to 
Quebec,  the  scenery  began  to  develop  extraordinary  beauty.  Nothing  of 
the  sort  has  so  impressed  me  except  the  neignborhood  of  Lake  George. 
The  shores  were  graduallv  closing  in,  and  on  either  hand  and  ahead  of  us 
were  mountains  descending  to  the  sea,  draped  in  the  dark-green  mantle  of 
the  densest  woods.  Here  and  there  a  little  church  might  be  seen  perched 
on  a  height.  At  last  we  reached  the  light-ship,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we 
would  have  been  clear  of  the  bar  and  heading  directly  into  Gaspe  Basin. 
"Are  you  sure  you  are  heading  right,  captain  ?  Aren't  you  keeping  too 
near  inside  ?  "  we  said  to  the  captain.  "  Oh,  no  ;  there's  plenty  of  water  ;  I 
guess  we  are  going  all  right,"  he  replied.  At  that  instant  the  schooner 
struck  on  the  bar,  and  ran  her  bow  up  on  the  sand,  with  a  dull  grating 
sound  that  made  us  sufficiently  disgusted.     A  ship  is  only  good  afloat.     A 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


39 


PercS  Rock. 


40 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


ship  on  shore  is  like  an  eagle  with  a  broken  pinion.  We  were  in  for  it  this 
time,  there  was  too  much  reason  to  believe,  for  it  was  about  high  water, 
and  the  breeze  was  making  a  chop  on  the  bar.  Two  circumstances  were 
in  our  favor :  the  night  promised  to  be  fine,  and  Captain  Asca,  the  light- 
house keeper,  who  now  came  on  board,  was  an  experienced  skipper,  and 
was  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  bay.  Every  effort  to  haul  the 
schooner  off  the  shoal  proving  of  no  avail,  we  should  have  been  obliged  to 
heave  out  her  ballast  if  the  next  tide  had  not  promised  to  be  unusually 
high,  the  change  of  the  moon  being  at  hand.     Since  nothing  more  could 


An  Old  Oven. 


be  done  until  the  next  tide,  we 
therefore  accepted  Captain  As- 
ca's  invitation  to  go  to  his 
house.  The  hour  and  the  scene 
were  so  enchanting  that  we 
were  quite  compensated  for  the 
inauspicious  circumstances  that 
detained  us  there. 
Captain  Asca  was  a  fine  specimen  of  a  Scotchman  ;  tall  and  large- 
limbed  ;  his  tawny,  flowing  beard  was  tinged  with  the  snow  of  sixty  win- 
ters, but  his  keen,  steel-gray  eye  had  in  it  the  fire  of  youth,  and  his  voice 
rang  across  the  ship  with  the  firmness  of  one  born  to  command.  And  yet 
his  life  had  been  passed  in  coasters  and  fishermen.  Both  of  his  grand- 
fathers were  in  the  army  which  stormed  Quebec  under  Wolte.  His  rela- 
tion to  the  light-ship  was  an  anomaly  in  the  history  of  harbor  lighting. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


41 


for  he  both  built  the  vessel  and  owned  it,  besides  keeping  it  for  a  meager 
allowance  granted  by  the  Dominion.  A  curious  way,  this,  for  a  govern- 
ment to  light  a  harbor  by  private  enterprise  !  His  father's  grist-mill  was 
on  the  seaside,  romantically  filling  the  entrance  of  a  ravine,  where  a  moun- 
tain stream  dashed  down  near  a  bar,  over  which  we  rowed  across  the 
rolling  foam.  The  new  moon  hung  in  the  west,  and  the  deep  glow  of 
twilight  yet  throbbed  over  the  mountains,  as  we  climbed  a  winding,  wooded 


Cunng  Fish  at  Perce. 


path  to  Captain  Asca's  house.  His  pet  parrot  had  come  down  to  meet 
him,  and  was  waiting  on  the  stile  for  his  master,  on  whose  shoulder  it 
alighted,  while  the  dog,  with  a  bark  of  welcome  for  his  master  and  a  sus- 
picious sniff  for  us  v)unded  down  the  slope  to  meet  us.  We  were  cor- 
dially invited  to  enter  the  house,  and  were  pleased  to  see  an  immense  fire- 
place across  one  third  of  the  kitchen  wall ;    but  we  preferred  to  sit  on 


42 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


the  door-step, 
where  the 
light -keeper's 
daughter 
brought  us  a 
pitcher  of 
fresh  milk. 
Behind      the 

I'     house  the  dark 
I     woods    arose, 
^V^    clothed     with 
shadows ;    be- 
and  at  our  feet  lay 
\y    and    our    little 
syond — north,  east, 
-  were    Gaspe,    the 
ver,  and  the  moun- 
ito  night.     A  great 
over  all  the  land- 
quillity  and  beauty- 
ideal.     We  felt  like  saying, 
hy  should  we  longer  roam  ?  " 
But  fate  and  the  ship  called 
away.     In  the  middle  watch 
le   tide    happily   floa:ed    the 
schooner,  and  under  the  pilot- 
age of  Captain  Asca,  who 
V-ii^":^  left  the  light-ship 

in  charge  of 
an     assistant, 

Returning  from  Church.  ^^  crlided  in- 

to the  harbor 
of  Gaspe,  called  the  basin,  as  it  is  so  snug  and  sheltered.  Gaspe  is  built  on 
the  sloping  sides  of  the  Basin.  It  has  eight  hundred  inhabitants,  a  mayor, 
and  a  United  States  consul.  The  houses  are  embowered  in  shrubbery, 
and  the  little  town  is  really  very  attractive.  All  business  has  left  it,  and  it 
is  now  in  a  state  of  somnolesccnce.  But,  like  places  which  have  had  a  pe- 
riod of  prosperity,  it  retains  a  certain  aristocratic  air,  and  the  society  is 
agreeable  and  refined.  The  people  are  largely  descended  from  loyalists 
of  the  Revolution.     The  place  is  three  days'  ride  from  the  nearest  railway 


"'^^M.! 


V    -\.  ,-^^^. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


43 


station.  A  railway  would  doubtless  greatly  add  to  its  prosperity  by 
bringing  tourists  there,  for  at  present  it  has  only  a  semi-weekly  steamer 
and  a  daily  stage-coach.  The  winters  are  long  and  the  snows  deep,  and 
the  people  of  both  sexes  go  to  church  on  snow-shoes,  which  they  leave 
stacked  up  in  the  porch  during  the  services.  But  the  summer  is  temper- 
ate, while  the  scenery,  the  fishing,  and  the  moderate  cost  of  living  combine 
to  make  Gaspe  a  place  of  unusual  attraction.  I  am  thoroughly  assured 
that  no  one  would  be  disappointed  who  should  make  it  a  summer  resort. 
The  fisheries  of  Gaspe  are  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  Le  Boutilliers,  who 
have  the  finest  residence  there.  The  fish  are  chiefly  exported  to  Brazil. 
They  are  not  packed  in  tierces,  but  in  tubs,  to  suit  the  mode  of  transpor- 
tation in  South  America.     Two  of  these  tubs  make  a  mule  load. 

The  good  people  of  Gaspe  are  greatly  moved  to  devise  some  scheme 
to  restore  their  departed  prosperity.  They  are  agreed  in  the  opinion  that 
a  railroad  would  do  it,  and  the  matter  comes  up  before  each  political 
election.  Theodolites,  chains,  spirit-levels,  pickaxes,  surveyors,  and  labor- 
ers appear,  and  the  candidate  is  profuse  in  his  enthusiasm  for  the  railroad. 
After  the  election  is  over,  the  question  is  laid  on  the  shelf,  and  the  enthu- 
siasm is  bottled  up  and  kept  to  help  the  candidate  into  office  another  year. 
Human  nature  is  pretty  much  the  same,  the  world  over. 

Our  consul,  Mr.  Holt,  was  very  courteous  toward  us,  and  exerted  him- 
self to  entertain  us.  We  decided  to  spend  a  day  in  trout-fishing,  for  which 
the  neighborhood  is  noted,  and  all  the  consular  influence  was  brought  to 
bear  to  procure  a  suitable  vehicle  to  carry  us  to  the  fishing  stream  six 
miles  distant.  But  horses  and  carriages  seemed  to  be  the  sjarcest  articles 
in  Gaspe  County.  We  had  about  given  up  expectation  of  finding  a  con- 
veyance, but  were  still  discussing  the  question  in  the  shady  street,  when  a 
wood-cart  came  by. 

Our  party  presented  a  truly  backwoods  aspect  as  we  rode  through  the 
streets  of  Gaspe  down  to  the  ferry,  coiled  up  on  the  floor  of  this  rude 
vehicle.  The  St.  John's,  .o  which  we  were  bound,  lies  on  the  side  of 
Gaspe  Basin  opposite  the  town,  and  the  cart  had  to  be  taken  over  in  the 
ferry-boat.  The  grasping  owner  of  the  Gaspe  ferry-boat  line  had  not  only 
contrived  to  obtain  a  monopoly  of  the  business,  but  had  also  managed  to 
get  all  the  stock  into  his  own  hands.  Judging  from  the  leakiness  of  the 
boat,  the  stock  seemed  to  have  been  pretty  well  "  watered."  The  propel- 
ling power  of  this  crazy  flat-boat  was  represented  by  a  lad  of  thirteen  and 
a  mere  shaver  of  seven  or  eight  summers.  But  they  managed  to  get  us 
over  without  accident,  which  was  more  than  1  anticipated.  The  monopo- 
list aforementioned  had  grown  so  wealthy  off  the  business  that  he  had 


44 


THE  CRUISE  OE  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


built  himself  a  house,  which  commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  river.  In 
order  to  save  ground-rent  or  taxes  in  a  country  which  is  now  so  densely 
populated  that  there  is  probably  one  inhabitant  to  every  ten  square  miles, 
he  had  bailt  his  mansion  on  a  raft  anchored  by  the  shore.  The  house  was 
twelve  feet  square,  and  was  divided  into  two  ample  apartments.  There, 
in  quiet,  unmolested,  and  luxurious  seclusion,  this  aquatic  Croesus  was 
seen  smoking  his  clay  pipe  in  his  own  door,  while  his  faithful  wife  and 
daughter  cooked  his  meals,  and  his  boys  raked  in  the  dividends  for  him 
by  rowing  the  ferry-boat. 

We  had  a  warm  ride  of  two  hours  through  the  spruce  forests  on  a 
mountainous  road.  The  air  was  redolent  of  the  fragrance  of  the  gum 
exuding  from  the  trees.  I  could  not  avoid  noticing  how  much  more  rare 
singing  birds  were  in  these  forests  than  in  New  England.     But  the  moun- 


Perce  Rock.     {Drawn  by   Thomas  Moran.) 


tain  glens  abounded,  we  were  told,  with  game.  An  English  sportsman 
killed  forty-eight  caribou  in  these  wilds  during  one  season. 

The  St.  John's  is  one  of  the  three  rivers  emptying  into  Gaspe  Bay. 
The  others  are  the  York,  which  empties  into  Gaspe  Basin,  and  the  Dart- 
mouth, which  finds  an  outlet  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Each  of  these  rivers 
has  a  romantic  beauty  of  its  own,  and  all  are  said  to  abound  in  trout  and 
salmon.  These  reports  are  given  for  what  they  are  worth.  My  own  belief 
in  the  trout-yielding  properties  of  a  stream  depends  upon  actual  and 
personal  observation.  I  have  found  that  so  enormous  is  the  capacity  for 
exaggeration  of  the  so-called  "  trout-liar,"  that  I  would  sooner  believe  a 
horse-jockey  or  the  captain  of  a  yacht.  I  therefore  decline  to  assume 
responsibility  for  any  of  the  rumors  I  may  quote  regarding  fresh-water 
fishing  in  the  Dominion. 

At  midday  our  expedition  at  last  stood  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  John's, 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


45 


Map  of  the  Cruise.    i^Paspebiac  to  the  Magdalen  Isles.) 


and  gazed  with  exultation  upon  its  rushing  current.  The  stream  is  a 
hundred  yards  wide  at  that  point.  There  were  woods  on  each  bank, 
which  echoed  back  the  musical  carillon  of  the  rapids.  We  found  a  boat- 
keeper's  lodge  there  and  a  num- 
ber of  canoes.  The  canoes 
used  now  by  the  sportsmen  in 
that  region  are  shaped  exactly 
like  the  typical  Indian  birch- 
bark  canoe  ;  they  are  not  made 
of  bark,  howev^er,  but  of  thin 
cedar  planking,  on  a  light  frame 
of  oak  or  ash.  Two  of  the 
party  went  down  the  stream  in 
a  canoe  with  the  guides,  whom 
we  found  living  in  the  lodge, 
while  Burns  and  I  whipped  the 
stream  from  the  banks.     After 

a  protracted  trial,  neither  attempt  was  attended  with  such  success  as  to 
kindle  the  enthusiasm  of  which  we  were  capable  under  favorable  circum- 
stances. The  guides  assured  us,  however,  that  farther  up  the  stream  there 
was  no  end  of  large  trout.  This  assurance  failed  to  make  the  impression 
it  might  have  done  if  we  had  been  at  liberty  to  cast  a  fly  in  that  part  of 
the  river.  But  it  was  leased  to  a  number  of  Boston  gentlemen,  and  not 
even  the  proprietor  of  the  adjoining  banks  could  fish  there  without  being 
hable  for  trespass.  It  may/  be  seriously  doubted  whether  so  much  money 
goes  into  the  Dominion,  annually,  by  the  leasing  of  the  streams  as  if  all 
tourists  were  allowed  to  fish  anywhere  during  the  season.  Each  tourist 
and  sportsman  brings  money  into  the  country,  which  is,  indeed,  sadly  in 
need  of  it.  Now,  I  maintain  that  the  large  number  of  sportsmen  who  would 
come  there  during  a  season  if  allowed  to  fish  without  restriction,  would 
bring  more  money  into  the  country  than  the  revenue  now  derived  from 
leasing  the  streams  to  a  few  dozen  gentlemen.  Of  course,  this  view  of  the 
question  must  be  to  a  degree  hypothetical.  But  there  can  be  no  question 
that  it  is  a  monstrous  usurpation  of  the  rights  of  property  for  a  govern- 
ment to  usurp  the  power  to  lease  away  the  riparian  rights  of  an  owner  to 
the  half  of  a  non-navigable  stream  that  runs  by  or  through  his  own  lands. 

We  found  compensation  for  our  poor  luck  with  the  rod  in  the  ravenous 
ap})etite  with  which  we  returned  to  the  good  supper  awaiting  us  on  the 
schooner.  The  weather  being  fine,  we  decided  to  move,  and  ordered  the 
captain  to  make  sail  and  drop  down  the  bay  toward  Perce,  when  the  land 


46  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

breeze  arose  with  the  turn  of  the  tide.  Being  becalmed  off  Point  Epitre, 
we  anchored  to  avoid  being  drawn  ashore  by  the  swell.  The  time  was 
well  spent  in  visiting  the  extensive  fishing  establishments,  one  of  which 
belongs  to  a  clergyman.  The  following  night  a  breeze  sprang  up,  but  it 
was  accompanied  by  a  dense  fog.  The  fates  seemed  to  be  opposed  to  our 
visiting  Perce.  But  we  had  taken  Captain  Asca  with  us  as  pilot,  until  we 
should  leave  Gaspe  Bay,  and  felt  confident  that  his  familiarity  with  those 
shores  would  get  us  safely  to  Perce.  He  was  certainly  feeling  his  way  by 
the  aid  of  some  sixth  sense,  for  at  sunrise  it  was  impossible  lO  imagine  that 
we  were  near  land  except  from  the  vast,  unbroken  procession  of  water- 
fowl trending  northwest  to  their  feeding  grounds  at  the  head  of  Gasp6 
Bay.  But,  firmly  grasping  the  wh'^el,  and  gazing  with  eagle  eye  into  the 
fog,  Captain  Asca  kept  the  schooner  going,  until  we  could  hear  the  dull 
boom  of  surf  tumbling  into  the  caves  of  the  cliffs.  There  is  sometimes 
about  the  effects  of  nature  an  apparent  sensationalism  which  would  be 
highly  censured  if  attempted  by  any  reputable  artist ;  but  she  carries  it  off 
so  well  that  we  accept  it  and  readily  admit  that  she  does  it  in  a  way  that 
"  defies  competition."  We  had  a  striking  example  of  this  fact  on  this  very 
morning.  For  just  as  the  pilot  said,  "  I  guess  we  are  getting  in  pretty 
handy  to  it ;  we'll  take  a  cast  of  the  lead,"  the  fog  parted  as  if  by  magic, 
rolling  away  on  either  hand  like  a  curtain,  and  where,  one  instant,  nothing 
was  to  be  seen,  the  next  a  superb  spectacle  lay  revealed  before  us.  The 
village  of  Perce  lay  not  half  a  mile  distant,  reposing  at  the  foot  of  the 
grand  overhanging  precipices  of  Mount  St.  Anne,  whose  base  terminated 
at  the  shore  in  mighty,  precipitous,  sea-beaten  cliffs ;  while  on  the  other 
side  soared  the  tremendous  bulk  of  the  famous  Perce  Rock,  dun  and  terri- 
ble against  the  morning  sun,  presenting  altogether  the  most  varied  and 
effective  view  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  North  America. 

"  Let  go  the  anchor,"  cried  the  pilot  at  once,  and  down  rattled  the 
cable,  in  fifteen  fathoms.     At  last  we  had  arrived  at  Perce. 

There  is  no  harbor  there.  The  mountain  range  of  Gaspe  County 
terminates  with  Mount  St.  Anne,  which  makes  to  a  point,  rounded  off  by  a 
low  cliff.  Directly  off  this  point,  and  detached  from  it  at  high  water,  is 
the  rock.  Ships  can  make  a  lee  of  it  in  good  weather,  dodging  from  one 
side  to  the  other  according  to  the  changes  of  the  wind  ;  but  it  is  not  long 
enough  to  make  a  lee  in  severe  weather,  and  the  sea  rolls  around  it.  A 
ship  lying  there,  which  it  would  only  do  in  summer,  must  therefore  watch 
carefully  every  shift  of  the  wind. 

Perce  is  a  shire  town.  The  houses  are  cheap  wooden  structures,  but 
the  appearance  of  the  place  from  the  water  is  foreign.     It  is  shut  in  by  the 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  47 

mountains  on  the  land  side.  The  large  Roman  Catholic  church  occupies 
an  eminence  in  the  center  of  the  town ;  and  the  court-house  is  also  a 
prominent  object.  Mount  St.  Anne  is  peculiarly  shaped.  A  steep^  dense- 
ly wooded  slope  rises  from  the  town  to  a  height  of  nearly  one  thousand 
feet,  and  terminates  in  a  perpendicular  cliff  richly  hued  with  iron  tints, 
which  crowns  it  like  a  Roman  fortress  and  soars  to  a  height  of  fourteen 
hundred  feet.  Perce  Rock  derives  its  name,  as  any  one  familiar  with  the 
French  language  would  at  once  perceive,  from  the  immense  arch  which 
pierces  it  near  the  eastern  end.  There  was  yet  another  arch  thirty  years 
ago ;  but  it  fell  in  during  an  earthquake,  and  left  one  side  of  it  a  separate 
rock.  A  columnar  rock  called  the  "  Old  Woman,"  off  Cape  Gaspe,  was 
overthrown  by  the  same  convulsion.  Before  this  event  it  was  possible  to 
reach  the  summit  of  Perce  Rock,  but  at  present  it  must  be  considered 
inaccessible.  One  or  two  daring  fishermen  have  succeeded  in  performing 
the  feat ;  but  several  have  been  killed  in  the  attempt,  and  to  try  to  scale  it 
is  now  forbidden.  There  is  a  legend  that  the  rock  is  haunted  by  a  spirit, 
who  may  be  seen  on  stormy  nights  hovering  over  the  summit.  Of  this  I 
do  not  feel  at  liberty  to  speak  with  certainty,  not  having  seen  this  water- 
wraith  myself.  Perhaps  it  was  to  counteract  the  unceasing  influence  of 
this  mysterious  being  that  an  immense  iron  cross  was  erected  on  the  point 
immediately  adjoining  the  rock.  But  whatever  the  facts  regarding  its 
supernatural  denizens,  this  can  be  affirmed  with  certainty — the  summit  is 
peopled  by  an  innumerable  and  loquacious  colony  of  sea-birds.  Their 
clanging  never  ceases  until  dark,  and  may  be  heard  for  miles  and  miles, 
blending  with  the  roar  of  the  tireless  surf.  Perce  rock  is  about  a  furlong 
in  length  and  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.  The  abruptness  of  its 
shape  makes  it  seem  much  more  lofty.  The  rock  is  sublime  in  shadow — 
a  dark  and  tremendous  bulk.  But  it  is  gloriously  bean  'ful  in  the  sunlight. 
The  former  conveys  an  effect  of  grandeur,  the  latter  brings  out  the  variety 
and  brilliance  of  the  coloring.  It  abounds  in  ferruginous  tints.  Golden- 
yellow,  copper-reds,  ochres,  leaden  and  roseate  grays  are  either  distinct  or 
deliciously  blended  in  a  grand  mosaic  on  this  marvelous  wall,  where 
Nature  has  shown  what  she  dares  in  the  way  of  color.  On  a  clear  after- 
noon, when  the  sky  and  sea  are  a  deep,  dreamy  purple  and  azure,  the 
beauty  of  Perce  Rock  baffles  description.  A  foil  or  background  to  the 
picture  is  the  isle  of  Bnnaventure,  a  mile  distant.  The  afternoon  light 
bathes  its  bold  outline  with  the  most  ethereal  roseate  grays,  which  affect 
the  soul  like  the  strains  of  tender  song.  The  timxC  is  coming  when  Perce 
will  be  painted  and  sung  and  celebiated  like  the  already  famed  resorts  of 
the  Old  World. 


48  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

While  we  were  at  Perce  we  climbed  up  to  the  summit  of  Mount  St. 
Anne.  It  is  a  long  afternoon  walk  ;  but  there  is  nothing  difficult  about  it 
until  within  three  or  four  hundred  feet  of  the  top,  when  it  becomes  very 
steep.  The  prospect  is  one  of  great  extent  and  of  enchanting  loveliness. 
On  one  side  one  gazes  down  on  Perce  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and 
on  the  other  he  looks  down  the  gorges  of  the  Canadian  mountains,  which 
fade  away  in  unexplored  solitude  into  the  distant  west. 

The  fisheries  at  Perce  give  to  it  the  animation  of  human  life.  But,  ex- 
cepting for  the  picturesqueness  of  the  fleet  of  boats  going  out  and  return- 
ing, I  should  greatly  prefer  the  whole  business  at  another  place ;  for  the 
smell  of  the  decaying  fish  on  the  north  beach  is  not  an  inspiring  odor,  al- 
though it  is  a  curious  and  interesting  sight  when  the  boats  come  home  to 
watch  the  women  and  children  flocking  to  the  beach  and  helping  the 
sterner  sex  to  clean  the  cod.  The  women  sometimes  protect  their  skirts 
when  cleaning  fish  b}'  getting  into  empty  barrels !  The  occasion  is  also 
one  of  mirth  and  sly  sparking  ;  we  detected  our  crew  engaged  in  this  prof- 
itless pursuit  when  they  were  sent  ashore  to  fill  the  water-casks.  A  sailor 
is  never  quite  so  comical  as  when  he  is  making  love  to  a  girl  on  shore. 
There  is  a  massive  bluntness  to  his  speech,  a  self-confident  diffidence  in  his 
manner  which  is  exceedingly  funny.  Giving  another  turn  to  the  quid  in 
his  cheek,  and  cocking  his  cap  on  the  back  of  his  head,  to  gain  an  appear- 
ance of  nonchalance.  Bill  sidled  up  toward  a  tittering  girl  who,  with  knife 
in  hand,  was  splitting  fresh  cod,  and  could  not  get  awa}^  from  him  at  once, 
because  she  was  buried  up  to  her  armpits  in  a  fish-barrel.  Before  long 
they  had  struck  up  a  brisk  confabulation.  Finally,  Bill  lifted  the  girl  out 
of  her  cage,  and  helped  to  carry  home  her  basket  of  fish.  The  south  beach 
of  Perce  is  more  neat,  and  far  less  inodorous.  Robin  &  Co.  have  one  of 
their  fine  establishments  there  ;  and  to  say  that,  is  equivalent  to  giving  the 
synonym  of  neatness.  Their  drying-yard  is  spread  with  pebbles  brought 
from  the  shores  of  Jersey,  which  are  preferable  to  a  bed  of  sand,  as  it 
allows  the  air  to  steal  under  the  fish,  and  hastens  the  piocess  of  drying. 
When  the  fish  are  brought  in  they  are  thrown  into  pens,  one  for  each  boat. 
Thus  the  respective  quantity  belonging  to  each  is  easily  ascertained. 
When  the  fish  are  salted,  they  are  carefully  laid  in  separate  rows ;  and  after 
they  have  been  dried  on  the  stages  or  lath  platforms,  they  are  piled  in 
neat  stacks,  protected  by  birch  bark.  One  can  not  fully  realize  what  an 
extensive  and  laborious  occupation  the  cod-fisheries  are,  and  how  large  is 
the  number  of  men  and  the  amount  of  capital  employed  in  them,  until  he 
has  cruised  over  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Robin  &  Co.  also  have  an 
establishment  at  Bonaventure  Island. 


THE  CRUISE  OE  THE  ALICE  MAY.  49 

The  sweetest  hour  at  Perc6  is  when  the  sun  has  just  set,  and  the  tips 
of  the  ruddy  cliffs  are  yet  warmed  by  its  glow.  The  hyaline  swell  lan- 
guidly kisses  the  shore  ;  the  new  moon  hangs  in  the  west ;  the  shadows 
creep  like  a  mantle  over  St.  Anne's  velvet-like  slopes,  and  cast  a  veil  over 
the  town ;  the  toll  of  the  angelus  from  the  church  tower  floats  musically 
over  the  sea,  and  the  lights  quiver  on  the  ocean's  tranquil  bosom.  Easily 
could  we  have  lingered  at  this  delightful  spot  for  months,  but  the  wind 
shifted  so  as  to  place  us  on  the  weather  side  of  the  Rock,  bringing  with  it 
a  dangerous  swell.  A  dark  cloud,  brooding  intensely  over  Mount  St. 
Anne  at  midnight,  also  suggested  a  possible  squall,  a  thing  to  be  carefully 
avoided  at  Perce,  where  the  flaws  from  the  mountain  are  sudden  and  vio- 
lent.    The  watch  was  called,  and  we  made  sail  and  put  to  sea. 

Hitherto  our  cruising  had  been  along  the  western  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence.  But  now,  with  a  fresh  northwest  breeze,  we  headed  east 
by  south  for  the  Magdalen  Islands,  which  lie  nearly  in  the  center  of  the 
Gulf,  about  two  hundred  miles  from  Perce.  At  daybreak  we  were  out  of 
sight  of  land,  and  the  wind  fell  almost  to  a  calm.  We  were  now  out  of 
the  track  of  vessels,  and  saw  none.  But  there  were  plenty  of  whales  sport- 
ing clumsily  about  us.  Toward  night  we  sighted  a  water-logged  wreck 
at  a  great  distance.  We  were  at  supper  when  it  was  discovered.  On 
learning  of  it  when  we  went  on  deck,  we  at  once  ordered  the  helm  to  be 
put  down,  and  turned  back  in  hope  of  reaching  the  wreck  before  the  long 
twilight  should  conceal  it  from  view.  But  the  wind  was  so  light  we  made 
little  progress.  There  were  no  evidences  of  life  about  the  wreck,  which 
was  probably  a  schooner ;  only  the  stump  of  the  foremast  remained  above 
the  deck.  The  hulk  lay  very  deep  in  the  water,  and  wallowed  in 
the  languid  swell  as  if  liable  to  go  down  at  any  moment.  There  is 
something  indescribably  melancholy  about  an  abandoned  wreck  at  sea. 
We  kept  up  the  slow  chase  for  several  hours,  in  the  bare  hope  that,  if  any 
one  was  yet  lingering  on  board,  we  might  rescue  him.  But  we  lost  sight 
of  the  wreck  before  we  could  reach  it ;  probably  it  sunk.  Soon  after,  the 
moon  went  down,  and  a  mysterious  starry  gloaming  settled  over  the  sea. 
The  night  was  superb.  Never  were  the  stars  more  brilliant,  or  the  silvery 
clouds  of  the  Galaxy  more  sublime  in  the  southern  heavens.  Above  a 
dark  bank  of  cloud  in  the  north,  the  northern  lights  flashed  like  a  green- 
ish fire.  The  eerie  chattering  of  Mother  Gary's  chickens  in  our  wake  was 
all  the  sound  that  blended  with  the  ripple  of  the  water  as  the  schooner 
fanned  along  with  a  light  air  in  her  serge-like  sails.  At  midnight  a  sough- 
ing wind  from  the  south  piped  up  in  the  shrouds.  Deeming  it  useless  to 
grope  longer  for  the  wreck,  and  anxious  to  take  advantage  of  a  fair  wind, 
4 


50  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

we  headed  once  more  on  our  course.  At  dawn  the  Alice  May  was  tum- 
bling headlong  over  the  heavy  seas,  staggering  under  a  press  of  sail,  and 
taking  in  toricnts  of  water  through  her  lee  ports  and  scuppers.  Every 
one  was  on  the  lookout  for  land,  alow  and  aloft.  As  the  sun  burst  over  the 
sea,  a  faint  hazy  line  was  discerned,  looming  above  the  horizon.  It  proved 
to  be  Deadman's  Island,  the  most  westerly  of  the  group  for  which  we  were 
heading.  It  is  indeed  a  singular  rock,  about  a  mile  long.  Not  a  herb,  nor 
a  bush,  nor  a  blade  of  grass  is  to  be  seen  on  its  rocky  sides,  which  rise  to 
a  sharp,  razor-like  ridge  in  the  center.  Seen  from  its  side,  the  island  bears 
a  vivid  resemblance  to  a  giant  body  laid  on  its  back  and  covered  by  a 
sheet,  and  is  a  fit  subject  to  inspire  the  wild  fancies  of  superstitious  mari- 
ners. Toward  noon  we  slacked  off  the  main-sheet,  and  ran  for  the  narrow 
passage  over  the  bar  which  makes  between  Amherst  and  Entry  islands. 
We  kept  the  lead  going  constantly,  and,  as  Captain  Welsh  was  not  familiar 
with  the  channel,  we  did  not  feel  at  all  easy  when  we  saw  the  rollers  taking 
a  pale  green  tint,  while  the  lead  announced  only  two  fathoms  under  our 
keel.  It  was  a  narrow  squeak  we  had  ;  the  schooner  was  lifted  over  the 
shoalest  part  on  the  top  of  a  sea,  or  she  would  have  struck  heavily  and 
bilged  !  The  truth  was  that  we  were  a  little  out  of  our  course.  But 
once  past  that  point,  the  water  deepened  rapidly,  although  it  is  never 
more  thari  a  few  fathoms  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Magdalen  Islands. 
We  would  advise  no  ship,  unaccompanied  by  a  pilot,  to  try  this  passage 
without  a  leading  wind  and  clear  weather.  It  is  better  to  go  around  Entry 
Island,  even  although  that  would  involve  two  or  three  hours  more  of  sail- 
ing. This  advice  is  the  more  pertinent,  because  the  sand  from  the  dunes 
of  Sandy  Hook,  the  extreme  end  of  Amherst  Island,  is  gradually  filling  up 
the  channel. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  51 


III. 

HAVING  arrived  at  the  Magdalen  Islands,  we  anchored  at  Havre 
Aubert,  the  chief  town.  There  is  a  small,  snug  port  here,  but 
difficult  to  enter,  and  the  channel  is  narrow  and  only  good  for 
small  vessels.  The  roads  are  formed  by  the  bight  inside  of  the  group, 
which  are  so  situated  as  to  resemble  a  boot.  This  anchorage  is  reasonably 
secure  in  good  weather,  but  is  open  to  northerly  and  easterly  winds. 
Vessels  caught  there  in  a  gale  of  wind  dodge  around  the  islands,  unless 
the  wind  shifts  too  rapidly  for  this  manoeuvre  to  be  accomplished. 

In  the  memorable  cyclone  of  1873  a  larg(  fleet  of  American  mackerel 
schooners  were  making  a  lee  at  Amherst,  when  the  storm  suddenly  shifted 
from  southwest  to  northeast.  Thirty-one  schooners  were  driven  on  shore 
at  their  anchors  in  an  hour,  and  proved  a  total  loss. 

There  is  nothing  very  inspiring  about  the  insular  metropolis  called 
Havre  Aubert.  It  receives  character  from  the  lofty  eminence  called 
Demoiselle  Hill,  which  springs  vertically  from  the  sea.  But  there  is  an 
extraordinary  air  of  solitude  and  woe-begoneness  over  the  place,  which 
grows  on  one,  because  there  are  no  trees  or  shrubs,  and  the  wrecks  bleach- 
ing in  the  slime  or  on  the  beach  seem  to  suggest  that  this  is  the  grand 
central  spot  to  which  decayed  vessels  come,  a  sort  of  hospital  for  disabled 
and  superannuated  ships.  And  indeed,  no  place  in  the  world  is  responsi- 
ble for  more  shipwrecks  than  this  savage,  solitary  cluster  of  sand  dunes  in 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Magdalen  Islands  extend  about  sixty  miles  north  and  south.  The 
main  group  is  practically  one  island ;  that  is,  it  consists  of  several  islands 
composed  of  real  soil  or  rocks  more  or  less  covered  with  trees,  connected 
by  long  stretches  of  sand  which  are  broken  at  intervals  by  inlets. 
Between  are  shallow  lagoons,  generally  not  deep  enough  for  a  boat.  Thus 
Amherst  is  connected  with  Grindstone  Island,  and  Grindstone  and  Alright 
are  connected  with  Coffin  Island.  Were  it  not  for  the  inlets,  one  might 
go  continuously  dry-shod  from  Amherst  to  Coflin  Island.  But  the  water 
in  the  inlets  is  so  shoal  that  in  places  they  can  be  forded — not,  however, 
wi*^hout  some  danger,  as  quicksands  abound.  Several  detached  islands  lie 
outside  of  the  main  group.    These  are  Deadman  Island,  Entry,  Bird  Rock, 


52 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


and  Bryon  islands.     The  last  is  a  great  resort  of  sea-birds,  and  offers  mani- 
fold attractions  to  naturalists  and  sportsmen. 

These  islands  were  a  royal  grant  to  Admiral  Cofifin  in  the  last  century. 
They  arc  peopled,  with  the  exception  of  Entry  Island,  by  Acadian  French, 
who  retain  all  the  characteristics  of  their  race.  The  present  population  is 
4,316.  It  is  curious  that,  although  the  French  were  but  a  short  time  in 
Acadie,  yet  the  impression  of  the  life  there  and  their  subsequent  expulsion 
is  yet  so  vivid  that  the  good  people  of  these  islands  visit  Canada  as  an 
American  returns  to  England,  as  though  it  were  the  old  home.  They  are 
a  quiet,  well-behaved  folk,  somewhat  inclined  to  indolence.  But  they  can 
hardly  be  blamed  for  lack  of  enterprise  and  spirit  when  the  circumstances 
in  which  their  lives  have  bjen  cast  are  so  forbidding.  For  six  m(jnths  in 
the  year  they  are  shut  (Jut  from  the  rest  of  the  world  by  the  ice  which 
incloses  the  islands.  They  might  as  well  be  at  the  south  pole.  Two  years 
ago  a  cable  was  laid  t(j  l^rince  Edward  Island,  but  it  does  not  extend  to 
the  detached  islands,  and  does  not  appear  to  be  of  much  use  to  any  of 
them.  When  we  were  there,  the  operator  at  Havre  Aubert  was  absent; 
he  had  actually  left  for  the  main-land,  to  be  gone  several  weeks.  During 
the  summer  a  steamer  runs  from  Pictou  to  Amherst.  She  is  old  as  the 
"  remainder  biscuit  after  a  voyage,"  and  plies  twice  monthly  on  this  course 
when  really  unfit  for  service,  probably  because  the  good  people  of  these 
islands  are  charitably  supposed  to  be  more  ready  to  go  to  heaven  by  sea 
than  most  travelers.  Almost  the  sole  means  of  livelihood  is  found  in  the 
fisheries,  and  when  these  fail,  which  is  not  rarely,  life  becomes  a  burden. 
Last  year  a  famine  occurred  which  came  within  an  ace  of  decimating  the 
population.  The  fisheries  had  been  a  failure;  then  the  ship  which  was 
expected  to  bring  the  winter's  supply  of  flour  before  the  ice  formed 
foundered  in  a  storm.  By  the  time  spring  came,  starvation  stared  the 
neople  in  the  face.  Many  would  have  died  if  it  had  not  been  that  a  large 
si  p  with  produce  was  wrecked  on  the  ice  off  Coffin  Island.  The  news 
spread  like  wild-fire.  The  whole  population  turned  out,  and  from  the 
cargo  of  a  shipwrecked  vessel  drew  a  new  lease  of  life.  But  these  repeated 
calamities  are  at  last  having  their  effect.  The  people  are  attached  to  these 
naked  isles,  for  here  is  their  home.  But  fate  is  against  them,  and,  scraping 
together  a  few  dollars,  they  are  gradually  emigrating  to  Labrador  (jr 
Canada.  During  the  long  winters  they  sometimes  catch  seals  on  the  ice, 
occasionally  upwards  of  30,000  in  one  season.  The  hunt  after  seals  is  one 
of  the  most  exciting  incidents  of  winter-life  at  these  desolate  isles.  The  ice 
forms  for  several  miles  entirely  around  the  group,  besides  welding  them 
fast  tOj^ether  with  its  iron-like  grip.     The  seals  have  no  regular  haunt,  but 


THE  CRUISE  OE   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


53 


^2  Li)tM^itUilr- 


are  liable  to  appear  at  any  spot.  A  keen  lookout  is  kept  for  them,  and 
from  the  hills  their  dark  forms  can  be  discerned  for  a  long  distance  away 
on  the  ice.  When  they  are  discovered  the  news  spreads  rapidly.  From 
every  quarter  the  people  hasten  toward  the  prey  in  feverish  excitement, 
armed  with  knives,  clubs,  and  spears.  In  their  eagerness  these  sportsmen 
often  forget  all  caution,  and  venture  out  a  long  distance  from  the  shore. 
But  this  is  attended  with  great  hazard,  as  a  sudden  wind  is  liable  to  break 
up  the  ice,  which  is,  in  any  case,  brittle  along  its  outside  barrier.  Every 
winter  one  or  two  men  are  lost  in  the  seal  hunt.  A  year  or  two  ago  three 
poor  fellows  were  carried  off  on  a  cake  of  floating  ice  before  the  eyes  of 
their  neighbors,  who  were  helpless  to  aid. 

Another  winter  (occupation  here  is  to  go  to  the  forests  of  dwarf  spruce 
at  Amherst  and  Grindstone  islands  and  build  fishing  boats  and  small 
schooners.  When  the  vessel  is 
completed,  the  owner  invites  his 
neighbors  to  help  him  haul  her 
to  the  beach ;  she  is  drawn 
thither  on  rollers  and  launched 
on  the  ice.  After  that  follows 
a  dance,  for  which  he  provides 
simple  refreshments.  Liquors, 
it  may  be  added,  are  little 
drunk  here,  chiefly  because  of 
a  prohibitf)ry  law.  Seven  lob- 
ster canneries  have  been  estab- 
lished quite  recently  which  give 
employment  to  a  number  ;  434,- 
758  lobsters  were  exported  in 
1 88 1.  But  the  continuance  of 
even  this  business  is  precarious, 

as  it  depends  upon  the  lobsters,  which  are  liable  to  take  a  sudden  whim, 
like  the  mackerel,  and  leave  for  other  oarts.  The  cannery  of  our  cour- 
teous consular  agent,  Mr.  Ogilby,  at  Amherst,  is  a  very  well  regulated 
establishment,  and  due  regard  seems  to  be  given  to  the  condition  and 
cleanliness  of  the  lobster  before  it  is  canned,  which  is  a  matter  verv  little 
considered  at  some  lobster  factories  which  we  might  name.  Capitalists 
have  repeatedly  offered  to  purchase  the  Magdalen  Islands  of  Colonel 
Coffin,  their  present  owner.  There  is  considerable  coloring  matter  in  the 
soil,  which  it  is  thought  might  be  turned  to  account  fot  pigments.  But 
the  proprietor  justly  reasons  that,  if  any  one  is  willing  to  give  $30,000, 


ST.PAUL'B   l.g  - 

CAFE  I  "*' 

BRtTONI.         C.NortiH  O 


,Zv> 


-4* 


u 


Afap   of  the  Cruise  from  the  Mai^a'alen  Islands  to 
Cape  St.  Georire, 


54  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

the  sum  offered,  the  islands  must  undoubtedly  be  worth  more.  The  reve- 
nue from  the  islands  is  trifling ;  but  to  a  man  of  large  fortune  like  him,  it 
is  interesting  to  be  called  Lord  of  the  Magdalen  Islands,  and  to  hold 
them,  as  it  were,  in  fief  to  the  Crown.  He  charges  a  mere  nominal 
annual  rent  of  one  shilling  the  acre,  and  does  not  press  his  tenants  for 
immediate  payment.  It  would,  therefore,  be  difficult  to  foment  rebellion 
here. 

The  Magdalen  Islands  were  a  few  years  ago  one  of  the  most  frequented 
resorts  of  the  Gloucester  fishermen.  Sometimes  one  hundred  and  fifty 
sail  might  be  seen  fishing  there  at  one  time.  At  night  or  in  foul  weather 
they  would  run  in  and  make  a  lee  in  the  bight  of  the  islands.  At  such 
times  there  have  been  upward  of  ten  hundred  fishermen  on  shore.  Often 
they  were  noisy  and  "  flown  "  with  liquor,  and  great  merriment  and  riot- 
ing, as  one  might  easily  imagine,  was  the  result,  frequently  to  the  annoy- 
ance of  the  inhabitants,  among  whom  there  were  not  all  told  that  number 
of  male  adults.  But  these  fishermen  were,  on  the  other  hand,  an  apprecia- 
ble source  of  revenue,  the  loss  of  which  is  greatly  felt  since  our  schooners 
ceased  to  frequent  the  Gulf.  The  great  storm  previously  alluded  to 
appears  to  have  had  a  depressing  influence  on  the  mackerel. 

Havre  aux  Maisons,  or  House  Harbor,  is  next  in  size  to  Havre  Aubert, 
and  the  only  other  inclosed  port  in  the  group.  But  the  entrance  is  tortu- 
ous and  difficult;  and  in  order  to  avoid  getting  the  Alice  May  again 
aground,  we  decided  to  leave  her  at  Amherst,  with  directions  to  run  her 
into  the  inner  harbor  in  case  it  came  on  to  blow  from  the  northeast,  while 
we  proceeded  to  Grindstone  Island  in  one  of  the  large  schooner-rigged 
fishing-boats  of  Amherst.  It  was  thirty  feet  long  and  shaped  somewhat 
like  a  whale-boat.  She  was  manned  by  a  highly  respectable  old  French 
fisherman,  whose  hair  was  grizzled,  and  whose  features  were  seamed  and 
bronzed  by  a  life  of  hardship  and  danger.  His  son  accompanied  us.  We 
were  privately  informed  that  they  belonged  to  upper  society  at  Amherst* 
for  the  sister  of  the  old  man  lived  in  one  of  the  best  houses  there,  and  kept 
a  boarding-house,  although  boarders  must  be  rather  scarce.  There  was 
much  quiet  dignity  in  the  bearing  of  this  venerable  habitant,  albeit  he 
wore  a  sou'wester  and  smoked  a  spliced  clay  pipe.  The  crow's  feet  in  the 
corners  of  his  dimmed  eyes,  the  hard  look  as  he  gazed  over  the  sea,  and 
the  pursed-up  mouth  indicated  the  struggles  of  a  long  life  of  sea  toil  and 
suffering.  We  started  with  a  strong  breeze  at  early  morning.  It  was 
blowing  half  a  gale,  and  our  sails  were  reefed  down.  But  the  wind 
moderated  as  the  sun  rose  higher,  and  the  distance  of  nine  miles  across 
the  bay  was  made  in  good  season. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


55 


Things  were  apparently  more  quiet  at  Havre  aux  Maisons  than  at  Am- 
herst. The  liveliest  object  there  was  the  sail-boat  which  ferried  across 
the  inlet  from  Grindstone  to  Alright.  But  in  reality  there  is  more  com- 
mercial activity  here  than  at  any  other  port  in  the  Magdalens.  This  is 
due,  in  part,  to  the  energy  of  M.  Nelson  Arseneaux,  who  owns  several 
schooners  and  a  trading  establishment,  besides  vats  for  trying  out  seal  oil. 
He  is  a  man  of  frank  and  hearty  disposition  and  of  hospitable  bent.     He 


The  Dash  to  Amherst. 


is  ever  ready  to  extend  a  welcome  to  travelers ;  and  those  who  have  ex- 
perienced his  courtesy  will  always  remember  him  and  his  amiable  family 
with  lively  interest. 

We  found  a  comfortable  lodging  and  capital  board  at  the  house  of 
Madame  Baudreau,  a  native  of  Nova  Scotia,  whose  Highland  origin  is 
unmistakably  evident  in  her  matronly  features,  her  galliard  manner,  ready 
wit,  and  keen  intelligence.     If  a  beneficent  Providence  had  placed  her  in 


56 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


a  more  active  society,  she  would  have  been  a  woman  of  affairs.  Her  hus- 
band superintended  a  lobster  cannery  at  Grand  Entry  Island,  while  she  re- 
mained at  home  and  gave  a  lodging  to  such  stray  wanderers  as  might 
come  there  during  the  summer.  She  had  the  history  of  the  island  and  its 
every  inhabitant  at  her  fingers'  ends.  Excellent,  aiso,  were  the  meals  she 
served.  It  is  a  fact  worth  remembering  that  women  of  masculine  strength 
of  character  are  generally  good  cooks.  The  islands  are  so  poor  that  any 
attempt  at  an  elaborate  menu  must  prove  a  failure  there.     There  is  much. 


The  Old  Skipper. 


however,  in  cooking  well  what  is  at  hand,  and  in  this  quality  our  hostess 
excelled.  The  chops  were  admirable;  the  wild  strawberries  and  cream 
were  delicious ;  the  tea  was  steeped  just  enough,  and  the  potatoes  were 
mealy  and  toothsome. 

To  cap  the  climax,  Madame  gave  us  at  breakfast  trout  that  LucuUus 
might  have  envied.  Noble  three-  and  four-pound  trout  they  were,  and 
cooked  as  if  Izaak   Walton  himself   had  been  there  to   give  directions. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  57- 

There  was  no  difficulty  in  swallowing  these  beautiful  fish ;  but  when  it 
came  to  swallowing  the  account  of  the  manner  in  which  they  were  caught^ 
there  was  some  demur.  I  tell  the  story,  but  do  not  vouch  for  it ;  although^ 
as  I  heard  it  elsewhere  also,  without  any  collusion  between  the  narrators, 
it  would  seem  to  have  some  basis  in  fact.  These  fish  were  caught  by 
hand ;  not  with  a  net  or  a  gaff,  but  actually  by  grasping  them  with  the 
bare  hand,  and  taking  them  out  of  the  water  !  No  fly-makers  or  rod-fash- 
ioners need  expect  custom  for  their  wares  in  places  where  trout  are  caught 
by  hand.  The  explanation  given  is  that  the  streams  are  very  small,  which 
is  perfectly  true ;  and  that,  when  the  fish  get  up  near  the  head  of  the 
brook,  it  becomes  so  narrow  and  shallow  that  a  three-pound  trout  finds  it 
hard  work  to  turn  around.  While  the  fish  are  in  this  predicament,  an 
active  lad  can  get  a  fast  hold  of  them  and  land  them  on  the  grass. 

After  returning  from  mass,  Madame  Baudreau  placed  her  carriage  at 
our  disposal.  It  was  after  the  latest  style  of  phaeton  in  use  at  the  islands  ; 
to  be  sure,  it  looked  like  a  very  primitive  sort  of  a  cart,  but  it  was  the 
only  sort  of  vehicle  to  be  had ;  and  although  its  jolting  made  our  teeth 
chatter,  we  had  a  very  jolly  ride  to  the  fishing  village  of  Etang  du  Nord. 
The  distance  was  five  miles  over  a  very  broken  country.  This  village 
is  by  far  the  most  bustling  of  any  settlement  in  the  group.  It  appears 
even  more  populous  than  it  is,  because  the  shore  of  the  semicircular  har- 
bor is  lined  with  fish-houses  built  on  piles,  which  look  very  much  like  the 
huts  of  the  lake-dwellers  of  Switzerland.  A  large  fleet  of  fishing-boats  be- 
long to  this  place,  and  when  they  are  at  anchor  on  a  holiday,  or  during  a 
westerly  gale,  the  little  port  has  a  most  animated  appearance. 

At  a  cost  which  it  would  seem  must  be  altogether  beyond  the  means  of 
the  poverty-stricken  people,  a  breakwater  is  in  course  of  construction 
across  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  which  lies  exposed  to  north  and  west  winds. 
The  great  drawback  to  Etang  du  Nord  is  the  unspeakable  filth  around  the 
fish-houses.  The  stench  of  decaying  fish  exceeds  belief.  A  board  of  health 
would  seem  a  prime  requisite  at  this  place. 

It  was  pleasant  to  turn  from  these  fish-houses  to  a  characteristic  scene, 
to  which  we  were  attracted  by  the  sweet  strains  of  a  violin  floating  on  the 
calm  summer  air.  On  proceeding  in  the  direction  from  which  it  came,  we 
discovered  the  village  musician  seated  bare-headed  on  the  door-step  of  a 
small  house,  absorbed  in  the  harmonies  of  the  fiddle-bow.  He  was  a  char- 
acter whose  fine  cranial  development  and  sapient  eye  might  have  enabled 
him  easily  to  pass  himself  off  for  a  philosopher.  We  set  him  down  as  the 
village  pedagogue,  if  there  be  one — a  question  we  did  not  ask.  Around 
him  a  group  of  eager  listeners  had  collected.     Some  were  seated  on  chairs 


58 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


or  stools  ;  others  had  planted  themselves  on  the  ground  ;  while  the  younger 
members  of  this  rustic  audience  lay  on  their  stomachs,  supporting  their 
faces  on  their  elbows  and  flourishing  their  feet  in  the  air.  It  was  a  delicious 
bit  of  nature,  unaffected  by  the  restraints  of  city  life.  A  far  greater  musi- 
cian might  envy  the  uncritical  delight  with  which  the  audience  testified 
their  appreciation  of  the  pleasure  afforded  them. 

The  following  day  opened  with  a  gale  of  wind,  which  sang  wildly 
over  the  lonely  wolds  of  Grindstone  Island.  As  it  w^as  blowing  too  hard 
for  the  boat,  and  we  had  no  time  to  lose,  we  decided  to  return  to  Havre 


Etang  du  A'ord. 


Aubert  by  land  along  the  sand  dunes.  The  fords  had  been  shifted  by 
recent  storms,  and  we  were  told  that  the  passage  was  more  hazardous 
than  it  had  been  for  years.  But  a  man  had  been  over  the  road  the 
previous  week  without  accident,  and  we  decided  to  take  the  risk. 
After  scouring  the  neighborhood,  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  two  carts 
and  a  guide,  who  would  also  bring  back  the  vehicles.  Passing  again 
through  ^tang  du  Nord,  we  entered  on  the  dunes,  and  for  some  ten 
miles  the  course  lay  along  a  beach  of  sand,  through  which  the  wheels 
were   dragged  with   difficulty.      The   strong   northwest  wnnd   drove  the 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


59 


^reat  breakers  shoreward  on  our  right  with  deafening  thunder.  At 
times  the  surf  encroached  on  our  path  and  splashed  over  the  wheels. 
Wrecks,  or  the  skeletons  of  ill-fated  vessels,  were  seen  frequently,  either 
entirely  exposed  or  deeply  embedded  in  the  sand.  Many  a  poor  ship 
has  been  picked  up  by  these  dunes  at  night,  or  driven  on  them  by  the 
fury  of  irresistible  tempests.  Water  was  on  either  hand — the  open  sea 
on  the  right  and  a  great  lagoon  on  the  left.  The  gusts  swept  furiously 
over  that   scene   of  solitude   and   desolation.      The   air  was   misty  with 


The  Fiddler. 


sprav,  and  the  screaming  fish-hawks  and  cormorants  w^heeled  past  us 
hke  lightning  borne  down  on  the  wind.  Like  a  gray  cloud,  Deadman 
Island  loomed  faintly  in  the  southern  horizon.  Not  a  soul  was  in  sight 
on  that  desolate  shore.  Alone,  we  labored  slowly  over  the  sand  to- 
ward Amherst,  which  looked  far  enough  away  directly  ahead.  At  last 
we  arrived  at  a  place  where  a  long  break  occurred  in  the  beach  on 
which  we  were  traveling.     Before  us  rolled  the  sea.     We  could  reach 


6o  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

the  opposite  shore  only  by  venturing  to  try  a  shoal  which  lay  across 
the  inlet,  curving  niward,  and  somewhat  removed  from  direct  exposure 
to  the  surf,  or  it  would  have  been  impassable.  The  ford  was  marked 
by  twigs  fixed  in  the  bottom  at  rare  intervals,  and  also  by  land  bear- 
ings known  to  the  guide.  But  it  was  narrow,  and  great  care  was  neces- 
sary to  avoid  getting  into  deep  water.  The  water  came  up  repeat- 
edly over  the  hubs  into  the  bottom  of  the  carts.  The  poor  horses  panted 
with  the  exertion.  The  passage  was  successfully  accomplished  after 
we  had  proceeded  a  distance  of  a  mile  through  the  water.  From  that 
point  there  were  no  further  difficulties  to  encounter,  and  we  stopped 
to  rest  the  horses  and  partake  of  the  lunch  we  had  brought.  What 
we  had  most  apprehended  was  the  quicksands,  exceedingly  subtle  foes, 
w  hich  take  one  unawares,  and  out  of  which  there  is  no  escape.  Hav- 
ing passed  this  danger,  wje  \vere  able  to  enjoy  our  sandwiches  and 
pipes  with  unusual  zest,  as  we  sat  under  the  lee  of  a  great  white  sand- 
hill, over  which  the  wind  whistled  with  a  shrill  w^ail. 

The  shores  of  Amherst  Island,  to  w^hich  we  had  crossed,  were  quite 
different  from  those  of  Grindstone  Island.  There  we  traversed  a  bare 
beach  of  fine  sand ;  but  here  we  found  a  line  of  high  and  very  pictur- 
esque sand-hills,  covered  with  long  salt  grass,  running  along  the  coast 
like  a  breastwork  erected  to  protect  the  land  from  the  ravages  of  the 
sea.  Many  highly  pictorial  effects,  replete  with  sentiment,  presented 
themselves  as  we  slowly  rode  toward  the  hills  of  Amherst.  When  w^e 
reached  there  we  found  a  soil  sufficiently  rich  to  support  forests  of 
dwarf  spruce  and  pine,  and  farther  on,  to  yield  potatoes  and  cabbages. 
From  these  spruce  trees  the  islanders  brew  spruce  beer,  which  is  the 
chief  beverage  in  the  Magdalen  Islands. 

At  Anse  aux  Cabanes  the  cliffs  became  abrupt,  and  we  found  a  small 
cove  where  a  group  of  fishing-boats  were  drawn  up  on  the  beach.  A 
little  beyond  this  we  came  to  a  lake,  forming  the  foreground  of  a  very 
agreeable  landscape,  whose  features  were  so  combined  as  to  suggest 
some  fair  prospect  in  southern  seas  instead  of  an  actual  scene  in  the 
bleak  ^Nlasfdalen  Isles.  In  the  extreme  distance  the  noble  outline  of  En- 
try  Island  loomed  up  beyond  the  blue  sea,  suffused  with  a  deep,  warm 
lilac  hue ;  the  water  was  of  a  superb  azure,  like  amethyst  and  tur- 
quoise. Demoiselle  Hill  gave  emphasis  to  the  middle  distance,  and 
a  lawn-like  slope,  clothed  in  verdure,  encircled  the  small  lake  which 
formed  the  foreground  of  an  exquisite  natural  composition. 

We  reached  Havre  Aubert  without  further  incident,  and  went  on 
board  our  schooner  hungry  as  wolves.     We  found  calkers  in  possession 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


61 


of  the  deck.  The  heat  at  Gaspe  had  melted  the  tar  out  of  the  seams, 
and  our  cabin  had  for  several  days  leaked  badlv.  Captain  Welsh  had 
succeeded  in  engaging  calkers  when  at  mass  on  the  previous  Sabbath. 
It  was  difficult  to  get  them  at  this  season,  as  it  was  the  time  for  making 
hay  at  the  Magdalen  Islands — that  is,  for  catching  fish,  which  is  the 
chief  harvest  of  the  people.  >- 

On  the  following  day  the  sky  was  reasonably  clear,  but  looked 
smoky  in  the  southwest,  and  the  glass  was  faUing ;  but  we  concluded 
to  run  over  to  Entry  Island  at  least,  where  we  could  make  a  lee  if  it 


Crossing  the  Ford  to  Amherst. 

should  blow  hard.  Before  starting  we  laid  in  a  supply  of  eggs  and 
salt  herrings,  and  were  lucky  enough  to  meet  a  woman  with  a  bucket 
full  of  wild  strawberries.  They  were  so  ridiculously  cheap,  that  for 
two  days  all  on  board  luxuriated  on  the  berry  of  which  Walton  said, 
"  Doubtless  God  might  have  made  a  better  berry,  but  doubtless  He 
never  did." 

A  boat  having  come  over  from  Entry  Island  to  trade,   we  secured 
one  of  her  crew  to  pilot  us  to  a  good  anchorage  there,  and  made  sail. 


62  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

A  very  fresh  breeze  of  wind  drove  us  rapidly  across  the  bay.  We 
came  to  anchor  under  the  lee  of  a  sandy  point  and  bar.  The  appear- 
ance of  Entry  Island  is  very  impressive,  differing  altogether  from  that 
of  the  islands  already  described.  It  stands  entirely  isolated,  ten  miles 
from  Havre  Aubert.  It  is  about  three  miles  long,  and  in  proportion 
to  its  size  as  mountainous  as  Madeira.  Abrupt  and  magnificently  shaped 
clififs,  beautifully  tinted  red  and  brown,  are  to  be  seen  in  its  entire  circuit, 
which  at  the  eastern  end  are  over  four  hundred  feet  high.  A  most 
beautiful  undulating  plateau,  covered  with  long  waving  grass,  breast 
high,  on  the  western  half  of  the  island,  ■  ises,  first  gradually,  then  rapidly, 
into  a  central  range,  terminating  in  twin  peaks,  the  loftiest  of  which  is 
called  St.  Lawrence  Hill,  and  is  about  six  hundred  feet  high.  The  ad- 
joining height  is  absurdly  called  Pig  Hill.  The  slopes  are  partly  cov- 
ered by  a  miniature  forest  of  dwarf  cedars  and  spruces,  which  look  like 
forest  trees  of  larger  growth.  The  soil  is  arable,  and  affords  fine  grazing. 
The  summit  of  St.  Lawrence  Hill  was  whitened  by  a  flock  of  nibbling 
sheep. 

We  landed  on  a  sand  beach  near  two  lofty  columnar  red  rocks,  gro- 
tesquely shaped  and  called  the  Old  Man  and  Old  Woman.  These  names 
frequently  occur  in  the  nomenclature  of  those  waters.  From  the  fre- 
quent repetition  of  geographical  epithets  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
one  has  a  right  to  infer  paucity  of  invention  or  verbal  weakness  among 
the  early  navigators  who  opened  those  regions.  It  was  a  good  two 
miles'  walk  to  the  settlement,  which  is  near  the  center  of  the  island.  The 
general  aspect  of  things  at  Entry  seemed  like  Pitcairn's  Island,  and  I 
was  constantly  haunted  by  the  idea  that  I  was  there.  Entry  Island  is 
shaped  something  like  a  tadpole,  a  long  point  running  out  toward  the 
west.  We  first  went  to  the  light-house.  It  is  kept  by  Mr.  James  Cas- 
sidy,  a  very  civil  and  intelligent  man,  who  has  been  there  since  the 
light  was  first  erected.  He  invited  us  into  his  house,  which  adjoi'  s  the 
tower.  Mrs.  Cassidy  also  received  us  with  refined  affability.  Books 
and  magazines  were  abundant  on  the  tables,  and  there  was  a  true  home- 
like aspect  to  everything  about  the  house  which  seemed  very  attractive, 
and  was  almost  unexpected  in  that  solitary  spot.  Mrs.  Cassidy  lament- 
ed the  lack  of  educational  advantages  at  Entry  Island,  and  said  she  had 
been  obliged  to  send  her  children  to  Nova  Scotia  for  a  schooling.  She 
seemed  to  occupy  an  unusually  lonely  position,  because  the  house  is  a 
mile  from  any  other,  and  the  Cassidys  are  entirely  unrelated  to  the  other 
residents  at  Entry. 

After  buying  a  sheep  from  Mr.  Cassidy,  we  rambled  over  to  Mrs. 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  63 

Dixon's  house.  This  is  the  oldest  of  the  ten  dwellings  on  the  islet,  and 
she  is  both  the  oldest  inhabitant  and  the  first  settler.  Mrs.  Dixon  is  now 
eighty-eight  years  of  age,  and  came  to  Entry  Island  with  her  husband  in 
1822,  sixty  years  ago.  Still  hale  and  hearty,  she  is  full  of  animation  and 
keen  observation,  and  is  virtually  the  queen  of  Entry  Island,  for  she  has 
twelve  children  and  forty-seven  grandchildren,  besides  a  number  of  great- 
grandchildren, all  of  whom,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  live  there. 
There  are  ten  families  at  Entry,  all  but  one  of  whom  are  related  to  her ; 
she  is  looked  up  to  by  all  with  reverence,  her  advice  is  asked  and  her 
counsels  are  followed,  and  she  rules  by  a  sort  of  mild  patriarchal  sway. 

On  reaching  Mrs.  Dixon's,  we  were  cordially  invited  to  enter,  and 
bowls  of  fresh  milk  were  brought  to  us.  A  flock  of  rosy,  barefooted 
grandchildren  clustered  by  the  door  and  gazed  at  the  strangers,  until 
gradually  they  gathered  courage  to  come  in  and  talk  with  us.  Mrs.  Dixon 
welcomed  us  to  her  old  home  with  a  hearty  cordiality,  in  which  one 
could  discern  a  certain  air  of  authority  natural  to  one  who  was  at  once 
an  uncrowned  sovereign  and  the  progenitor  of  the  subjects  who  peo- 
pled her  insular  realm.  Had  she  ever  wearied  of  such  a  lonely  existence? 
we  asiked.  Oh,  no,  she  replied.  She  had  been  once  off  the  island  in 
sixty  years ;  but  there  was  always  plenty  to  do,  and  with  her  children 
about  her  she  was  content.  During  the  long  winters  they  threshed  grain, 
or  made  butter,  or  spun  yarn,  and  wove  the  cloth  they  wore.  Sometimes 
they  had  a  fiddle  and  a  dance,  and  at  any  rate  there  was  always  some- 
thing to  be  done.  She  regretted  that  only  during  the  summer  could 
they  have  religious  services,  when  a  clergyman  would  come  over  two 
or  three  times  and  baptize  the  babies  or  confirm  the  young.  From  De- 
cember to  February  Entry  Island  is  cut  off  from  all  communication  with 
the  other  isles  of  the  group.  In  February  or  March  the  broken  ice 
generally  becomes  solid,  and  people  can  then  cross  over  to  Grindstone 
Island  until  May,  when  the  ice  disappears. 

The  old  lady  sat  in  the  ample  smoke-blackened  chimney  corner  of  her 
kitchen,  while  entertaining  us,  knitting  a  stocking.  There  was  no  dim- 
ness in  her  eyes,  no  quavering  in  her  utterance.  Her  voice  was  clear 
and  strong,  and  her  speech  was  spiced  with  shrewd  and  witty  remarks. 
She  was  evidently  a  woman  of  remarkable  strength  of  character.  It  was 
with  great  interest  that  I  heard  her  talk,  for  it  is  not  often  in  this  age 
that  a  woman  is  foimd  occupying  such  a  position,  the  virtual  sovereign 
of  an  island  which  for  six  months  in  the  year  is  shut  out  from  the  world. 
It  was  interesting  to  see  the  deference  shown  to  the  old  lady  by  her  sons 
when  they  entered  the  room  where  she  was  seated.     A  large  family  Bible 


M 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


was  a  prominent  object  in  the  best  room  ;   and  from  all  we  could  gather, 
these  people  are  honest  and  piously  inclined. 

From  Mrs.  Dixon's  we  made  our  way  through  the  long  grass  to  the 
grand  precipices  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  island.  These  cliffs  are  up- 
ward of  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  are  remarkable  for  their 

color  and  form.      At  the  ex- 
treme easterly  point  there  is 
a  small   inaccessible  penin- 
sula   connected     with     the 
main  island  by  a  narrow  cur- 
tain of  rock,  which  comes  up 
into  a  very  sharp  edge,  four 
hundred  feet  high.     A  few 
foxes  hide  on  this  point,  and 
at  night  creep  over  on  this 
sharp  edge,  and  make  a  raid 
on   the   hen-roosts.     There 
seems  to  be  no  way  of  reach- 
these    stealthy   rogues, 
without   great    risk   of    de- 
•  struction  to  the  hunter. 
The  highest  of  the  Entry 
Island  cliffs  is  four  hundred 
and   forty   feet    high,    and 
comes  to  a  point  like  a  tur- 
ret erected  to  watch  the 
coast.     It  is,  in  fact,  called 
the  Watch  Tower.     As 
we  gazed  over  the  edge 
of  the  precipices  on  the 
sea  side  of  these  cliffs, 
I  was  vividly  remind- 
ed   of    the    celebrated 
rocks   of   the   Channel 
Islands. 


A  few  of  the  Natives. 


There  is  great  beauty  and  variety  in  the  formation  of  Entry  Island. 
Its  surface  is  so  broken  into  miniature  valleys,  gorges,  and  plateaus,  that 
it  seems  very  much  larger  than  it  is.  There  are  several  deep  pits  near 
the  east  end,  to  which  one  must  give  a  wide  berth,  for  they  contain  water 
to  an  unknown  depth,  while  the  mouths  are  almost  concealed  by  a  growth 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  65 

of  rank  rass.  Everything  about  the  interior  of  Entry  Island  suggested 
pastoral  ease  and  happiness.  The  flocks  and  herds  grazed  on  the  hills. 
Healthy  children,  fowls,  calves,  geese,  and  pigs  jostled  together  before 
the  farm-houses  in  good-natured  rivalry  of  friendship.  If  there  were  no 
evidences  of  wealth  among  the  good  people,  there  were  also  no  signs  of 
squalor  or  discontent.  As  the  day  declined,  and  the  shadows  grew  long, 
the  cattle  from  all  parts  of  the  island  gathered  to  a  common  stock-yard 
or  byre.  It  was  pleasing  to  hear  the  bells  tinkling  as  the  cattle  wended 
home.  When  they  had  all  come,  the  milkmaids  entered  the  inclosure 
with  their  pails. 

After  purchasing  a  supply  of  eggs,  we  turned  our  faces  toward  our 
floating  home  riding  in  the  bay.  The  ramble  of  the  afternoon  and  the 
keen  sea-wind  had  whetted  our  appetites.  But  the  state  of  the  weather 
also  warned  us  to  hasten  on  board  without  further  delay.  All  the  alter- 
noon  the  wind  had  been  rising,  until  now  it  blew  a  gale  from  the  south- 
west, with  every  prospect  of  increasing  iji  violence.  It  swept  over  the 
hills  in  shrill  blasts,  and  the  reefs  were  white  with  the  foam  of  the  beating 
surges.  Vessels  could  also  be  discerned  putting  back  to  make  a  lee  behind 
the  island.  A  great  bank  of  cloud  had  gathered  in  the  west  like  a  smoke, 
and  fully  an  hour  before  sundown  the  sun  had  buried  itself  in  this  cloud, 
and  an  early  and  ominous  twilight  came  on  apace.  Hastening  our  steps, 
we  at  last  reached  the  boat.  Mr.  Cassidy  was  waiting  there  with  the 
sheep.  He  advised  us  to  remain  on  shore,  and  offered  us  a  lodging  at  his 
house.  Although  protected  from  the  direct  force  of  the  waves,  the  cove 
where  the  Alice  May  was  anchored  showed  the  influence  of  the  under-tow 
escaping  around  the  bar.  She  was  rolling  heavily,  surrounded  by  a  fleet 
of  schooners  which  had  collected  there  during  our  absence,  seeking  a  shel- 
ter.   ■    -   ---;■:--  -:;■-■■■'--■ 

We  found  our  boat's  crew  in  bad  humor,  because  thev  had  been 
detained  so  long  after  eight  bells,  or  supper-time.  Punctuality  at  meals  is 
one  of  the  important  points  in  a  sailor's  life  ;  his  fare  may  be  poor, 
but  it  is  the  best  he  has,  and  he  looks  forward  to  it.  Nothing  irritates 
Jack  more  than  to  be  late  to  meals.  We  desired  to  go  aboard  without 
delay.  The  fury  of  the  wind  soon  drove  the  boat  out  to  the  vessel,  but  it 
required  great  caution  to  round  to  and  get  aboard  without  swamping  the 
boat.  As  we  had  but  one  boat,  and  it  was  now  dark,  it  would  be  all  up 
with  us  if  the  yawl  capsized.  To  make  matters  worse,  the  men  were 
scared  as  well  as  cross,  and  I  found  it  no  small  matter  to  bring  her  to  with 
the  steering  oar. 

"  Keep  cool ;  one  at  a  time,  boys,"  was  the  word  as  we  lay  alongside 
5 


66 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY, 


and  grasped  the  line  which  was  thrown  to  us.  As  the  schooner  rolled  her 
side  down  toward  us,  there  was  a  general  scramble,  and  we  all  grasped  the 
rail  at  once  and  leaped  safely  on  board. 

"  Well,  Henry,  is  supper  ready  yet?  " 

"  Yes,  sir,  all  ready  ;  it's  waiting  for  you  below,  sir." 

The  faithful  fellow  had  kept  the  supper  warm,  and,  as  soon  as  he  saw 
us  coming  off,  knowing  our  eagerness  for  something  warm,  he  lighted  th  3 
lamp  and  laid  the  dishes  on  the  table.  Out  from  the  wind,  we  stepped 
below  into  our  homely  but  cozy  cabin,  and  were  greeted  with  the  grateful 
fragrance  of  a  savory  meal.    Among  other  dishes  was  a  mess  that  was  new 


Old  Fire-Place  at  Entry  island. 

to  us.     A  ragout  of  lamb,  highly  seasoned,  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  of 
potatoes,  mashed  and  richly  browned. 

Many  were  the  expressions  of  ecstasy  and  impatience  with  which  we 
hailed  the  supper,  and  especially  this  dish.  It  was  frequently  encored 
until  it  was  exhausted.  Whenever  a  new  dish  appeared,  w^e  gave  it  an 
appropriate  name.  Bean  soup  we  called  "  Potage  a  la  Pompadour  "  ;  then, 
too,  we  had  ?i  fricassee  an  cheval  de  maitre  d  hotel,  which  was  composed  of 
salt  beef.  Our  favorite  dish  was  ocufs  an  diudon  du  Cap  Cod,  which,  freely 
translated,  means  fishballs  garnished  with  poached  eggs.  This  dish  vvas» 
perhaps,  Henry's  chef  d'a^uvre. 


THE   CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


67 


But  while  we  were  enjoying  oar  supper  with  such  zest,  the  Httle 
schooner  was  rolling  more  heavily,  and  the  hum  of  the  wind  in  the  rigging 
showed  that  the  force  of  the  gale  was  increasing. 

When  the  moon  rose,  it  added  to  the  wildness  and  splendor  of  the  night. 
The  sky  was  clear  from  clouds,  but  a  thin  haze  slightly  obscured  the  stars. 
A  tremendous  surf  was  breaking  on  the  low  spit  which  protected  us  from 
the  brunt  of  the  gale.  As  the  spray  shot  high  up  in  vast  sheets  of  foam,  it 
caught  the  light  of  the  moon,  and  was  turned  into  molten  silver.  Before 
us  loomed  the  dark  mass  of  Entry  Island,  vague  and  mysterious.  From 
time  to  time  the  dark  outline  of  a  schooner  could  be  seen  coming  around 


The  Gale  at  Entry  Island. 


the  island  under  short  sail  to  make  a  lee.  Then  would  be  heard  the  rattle 
of  the  cable,  and  soon  the  schooner  would  add  the  gleam  of  her  anchor 
Hght  to  those  already  twinkling  and  bobbing  in  the  roads. 

The  glass  was  still  falling,  and  if  the  wind  should  shift  to  the  northeast 
or  northwest  we  were  in  a  nice  box.  But  we  preferred  to  regard  this  as  a 
summer  blow  that  would  die  out  before  morning,  and  accordmgly  enjoyed 
the  grandeur  of  the  night  without  apprehension.  About  midnight  the 
wind  began  to  cant,  with  that  whiffling  uneasiness  of  direction  which 
always  demands  a  sharp  lookout.  It  was  preparing  to  shift.  All  hands 
were  called,  close  reefs  were  put  in  the  fore  and  main  sails,  and  the  crew 


68  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

manned  the  windlass.  This  preparation  had  come  none  too  quickly,  for, 
with  a  flurry  of  rain  and  several  vivid  flashes  of  lightning,  the  wind 
suddenly  came  out  of  the  west-northwest.  Quickly  hoisting  the  reefed 
mainsail  and  jib,  we  hastened  away  from  an  anchorage  which,  from  being 
a  safe  lee,  had  become  a  lee  shore.  As  we  passed  from  the  shelter  of  the 
island,  we  encountered  a  wild,  tumultuous  sea,  which  decided  us  to  head 
on  our  original  course,  instead  of  running  to  the  leeward  of  Entry  Island. 
If  it  should  come  on  to  blow  hard,  we  considered  that  it  would  beat  down 
the  old  sea,  and  we  could  then  run  for  the  southern  side  of  Entry  ;  while., 
if  the  wind  moderated,  we  were  gaining  in  every  mile  we  sailed.  Cruising 
among  the  Magdalen  Islands  is  not  a  trifling  sport ;  it  requires  judgment 
and  caution,  for  there  are  no  harbors  accessible  in  bad  weather,  and  the  lee 
under  the  land  made  with  one  wind  may  become  a  deadly  foe  the  next 
hour,  while  the  seas  which  the  winds  raise  in  the  Gulf  are  exceedingly 
dangerous,  not  because  they  are  unusually  high,  but  because  they  are  short 
and  steep — just  the  sort  of  waves  which  trip  vessels  rolling  in  a  calm,  or 
cause  them  to  founder  when  hove  to. 

But  the  wind  sooii  began  to  moderate,  and  we  headed  northeast  for 
the  Bay  of  Islands,  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  away.  It  was  with  enthu- 
siasm that  we  saw  \\\^  Alice  May  at  last  shaping  a  course  for  what  promised 
to  be  one  of  the  most  interesting  points  in  our  cruise.  The  reports  we 
had  heard  regarding  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  on  the  west  coast  of 
Newfoundland,  together  with  the  savage  reputation  of  the  cliffs  and  people, 
had  fired  our  imagination.  Bryon  Island  and  Bird  Rock  bore  about  west 
at  noon  ;  the  latter  was  only  two  miles  distant.  It  is  indeed  a  lonely  spot, 
entirely  bare,  and  occupied  only  by  the  three  light-keepers.  Access  can 
be  had  to  it  only  by  a  crane  overhanging  the  water  from  the  precipice. 
A  chair  is  lowered,  and  visitors  are  hoisted  from  the  boat.  The  Rock 
has  been  the  scene  of  two  disasters  within  the  last  fifteen  months.  When 
the  keepers  were  firing  the  fog-gun  it  exploded  and  killed  two  of  them  on 
the  spot.  It  was  several  days  before  the  poor  survivor  could  contrive  to 
induce  a  passing  sail  to  touch  there  and  carry  the  news  to  the  main-land. 
Previous  to  this  sad  event,  Bird  Rock  was  at  one  time  destitute  of  provis- 
ions after  a  prevalence  of  long  bad  weather,  and  the  light-keepers  were 
forced  to  consider  seriously  the  possibility  that  one  of  the  Magdalen  It  lands 
might  become  a  cannibal  island.  But  their  signals  \yere  finally  seen  when 
the  weather  moderated,  and  a  passing  ship  came  to  their  aid  at  the  last 
moment.  It  is  dreadful  that  such  a  condition  of  things  should  be  possible 
so  near  to  civilized  Hfe.  There  is  not  the  slightest  excuse  for  a  light-house 
to  be  allowed  to  run  out  of  provisions.     In  this  day  of  canned  and  pre- 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  69 

served  meats  and  hard  bread,  a  supply  sufficient  for  a  year  would  not  spoil, 
and  would  prevent  peril  from  starvation.  No  light-house,  difficult  of  ac- 
cess in  bad  weather,  should  be  at  any  time  left  with  less  than  a  double 
supply  of  light-keepers,  and  stores  for  fully  six  months.  The  smaller  Bird 
Rock  lies  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  one  on  which  the  light-house 
stands.  It  is  a  low,  jagged,  dangerous  ledge.  There  is  a  passage  between 
the  two  islands,  or  rocks,  but  no  vessel  should  try  it,  unless  pressed  by  the 
wind  too  near  the  rocks  without  the  ability  to  tack  or  claw  off  from  such 
perilous  proximity.  Although  the  wind  was  light,  there  was  still  such  a 
high  swell  that  we  did  not  think  it  expedient  to  attempt  to  try  landing  on 
Bird  Rock.  Bryon  Island  resembles  Entry  Island,  being  well  fitted  for 
pasturage ;  it  is  occupied  by  several  English  farmers.  But  it  is  more  flat 
than  Entry  Island,  and  every  way  less  interesting,  except  for  its  large  va- 
riety of  sea-fowl.  Owing  to  its  distance  from  the  other  islands  of  the  group, 
and  the  entire  absence  of  harbors,  Bryon  Island  is  rarely  visited  by  boats 
or  ships.  A  party  of  naturalists  and  sportsmen  from  Boston  were  there 
during  our  visit  to  the  Magdalen  Islands. 

The  sunset  was  superb,  the  colors  being  brilliant,  but  tender,  and  finally 
merging  m  a  deep  orange  hue,  lasting  for  hours,  until  imperceptibly  ab- 
sorbed in  the  purple  veil  of  night.  It  was  emphatically  a  fair-weather  sky, 
which  was  exactly  what  we  hoped  for  when  cruising  along  the  tremen- 
dous coast  of  the  west  of  Newfoundland.  A  light  wind  fanned  the  schooner 
on  her  course  all  night,  and  at  sunrise  land  was  made  out  on  the  lee  bow. 
Never  does  the  first  sight  of  a  new  coast,  or  in  fact  of  any  coast,  become 
a  commonplace  event,  even  to  the  most  experienced  old  salt.  All  the 
senses  seem  at  once  on  the  alert  to  ascertain  what  point  it  can  be.  The 
various  bearings  are  considered,  the  chart  is  studied  afresh,  and  each  one 
has  his  own  opinion  to  express.  Of  course  there  are  times  when  the  char- 
acteristics of  the  land  are  so  salient,  or  so  well  known,  that  there  can  be 
no  question  as  to  its  identity.  But,  as  a  rule,  when  land  is  first  descried 
at  sea,  its  whereabouts  continues  for  a  while  a  matter  of  speculation.  Then, 
too,  the  imagination  is  stimulated,  and  actively  surmises  the  nature  of  the 
country,  its  people,  and  special  peculiarities.  Particularly  is  this  the  case 
when  one  approaches  an  island  he  has  not  seen  before.  When  one  travels 
by  rail,  the  social  or  topographical  changes  come  by  gradation,  and  there 
is  rarely  a  striking  contrast  apparent  at  any  one  point.  But  when  one 
arrives  in  sight  of  a  new  country  by  sea,  the  transition  from  the  one  to 
the  other  is  rapid,  and  often  violent.  When  he  lands  on  the  new  shore,  it 
seems  to  be  like  coming  to  another  planet,  and  he  is  constantly  saying  to 
himself,  "  How  strange  it  appears  to  see  these  people.     Here  they  have 


70  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY, 

been  existing  for  ages  ;  they  are  real  human  beings,  marrying  and  giving 
in  marriage,  and  engaged  in  human  pursuits,  and  going  through  the  end- 
less round  of  destiny  like  my  own  people,  and  yet  I  nev^er  saw  them  or 
heard  of  them  before.  They  seem  quite  able  to  do  without  the  rest  of  the 
world ! " 

We  made  out  the  land  in  sight  to  be  Cape  St.  George.  It  was  yet 
very  distant,  and  loomed  like  a  gray  cloud  in  the  ofifing.  A  long  and  lofty 
and  forbidding  coast-line  gradually  came  into  view,  trending  north  and 
south  for  a  great  distance.  The  larger  part  of  the  day  a  calm  prevailed. 
Numerous  whales  were  to  be  seen  sporting  in  schools,  their  smoke-like 
spouting  suggesting  the  firing  of  muskets.  One  of  these  unwieldy  levia- 
thans passed  under  our  stern  near  enough  to  strike  the  schooner  with  a 
stroke  of  the  tail,  if  he  had  so  chosen.  The  high  westerly  swell  drifted 
the  vessel  shoreward  quite  near  to  the  inaccessible  precipices  of  Cape  St. 
George.  This  is  a  terrible  coast  in  stormy  weather.  For  sixty  miles  there 
is  not  a  place  where  a  ship  attacked  by  westerly  gales  could  make  a  lee  or 
get  an  anchorage.  The  coast  is  many  hundreds  of  feet  high,  without  any 
beach  at  the  foot  except  at  rare  intervals.  When  south  of  Cape  St.  George, 
a  ship  can  make  a  lee  of  it  in  a  nor' wester  or  run  into  Georgetown.  A 
lee  can  also  be  made  in  the  bight  of  the  cape,  which  is  shaped  not  unlike 
a  fish-hook.  But  this  bight,  or  bay,  is  dangerous  in  a  northeast  w4nd,  and 
the  entrance  is  at  best  hazardous,  as  it  is  beset  with  reefs  which  are  not 
buoyed.  A  very  precarious  lee  resembling  a  forlorn  hope  may  be  made 
behind  Red  Island,  a  rock  near  the  outer  angle  of  Cape  St.  George.  Red 
Island,  by  the  way,  is  a  summer  station  of  the  large  French  cod-fishing 
firm  of  Camolet  Freres  et  les  Fils  de  I'aine,  whose  headquarters  are  at  St. 
Pierre. 

What  adds  to  the  perils  of  this  coast  is  the  scarcity  of  the  population 
and  the  desperate  character  of  those  who  live  there,  occupying  rough 
shanties  among  the  rocks.  It  is  a  matter  of  fact  and  not  of  rumor  that, 
when  a  shipwrecked  vessel  happens  to  be  so  situated  that  the  crew  can  not 
escape,  they  are  in  great  danger  from  these  ruffians  of  the  sea,  whose  ob- 
ject is  to  plunder  the  ship.  It  is  most  disgraceful  that  such  miscreants 
should  be  permitted  to  live  on  any  part  of  the  British  or  French  dominions. 
The  perils  of  the  sea  are  already  sufficient  without  adding  to  them,  by  al- 
lowing the  coast  to  be  infested  with  sea-pirates.  Probably  each  govern- 
ment would  shirk  the  responsibility  on  the  other,  because  the  western  and 
southern  shores  of  Newfoundland  are  debatable  ground,  where  each  claims, 
but  fails  to  obtain,  unrestricted  jurisdiction. 

It  is  also  very  discreditable  to  somebody  that  there  is  no  light-house 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


71 


between  Cape  Ray  and  the  straits  of  Belle  Isle,  a  distance  of  four  hundred 
miles,  on  a  coast  passed  by  many  vessels  during  six  months  of  the  year. 
Some  would  reply  to  this  that  the  coast  is  high,  and  is  easily  discernible 
in  all  weathers,  and  that  the  entrances  to  the  bays  are  free  from  shoals. 
This  is  true  enough  ;  but  this  very  boldness  of  the  coast  makes  it  difficult 
to  distinguish  the  ports  until  a  ship  is  very  close  in,  while  it  is  quite  impos- 
sible at  night.  The  few  ports  are  likewise  so  very  far  apart  that  it  is  highly 
dangerous  for  a  ship  to  make  a  mistake  in  a  gale  of  wind,  for  she  is  sure 
to  be  driven  on  shore  before  she  can  make  the  next  port ;  whereas,  with 
four  or  five  prominent  Hght-houses,  this  danger  might  be  mitigated  to  a 
considerable  degree.  Two  years  ago  a  fleet  of  six  schooners  came  out  of 
the  Bay  of  Islands  in  the  afternoon.  As  it  was  late  in  the  season,  there 
were  many  passengers  on  board  who  were  leaving  the  bay  before  the  in- 


Off  Deadman  Island. 


clemency  of  the  season  should  close  navigation.  It  came  on  to  blow  hard 
from  the  westward  during  the  night.  The  schooners  could  not  carry  sail 
against  the  savage  wind  and  sea ;  under  their  lee  was  a  pitiless  coast  with- 
out anchorage  or  harbor,  and  haunted  by  demons  in  human  shape.  Before 
morning  every  one  of  this  fleet  had  struck  on  the  rocks  and  all  hands  per- 
ished ;  whether  any  of  them  came  to  land  and  were  murdered  remains  a 
matter  of  conjecture. 

Three  winters  ago  a  square-rigged  vessel  struck  on  the  coast  north  of 
the  Bay  of  Islands  and  lodged  high  up  in  a  hollow  of  the  cliff.  All  the 
crew  but  two  were  lost  in  trying  to  get  to  land.  The  survivors  lingered 
on  board,  looking  for  a  chance  to  get  off  safely  or  to  be  rescued  by  the 
inhabitants.  After  some  weeks  the  fuel  gave  out,  or  at  least  the  means 
for  kindling  a  fire.    Then  one  of  the  men  died.    For  two  months  the  single 


72  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

survivor  lived  in  this  appalling  situation,  with  only  a  frozen  corpse  for 
companionship  and  without  fire,  while  the  deafening  din  of  the  breakers 
constantly  reminded  him  of  his  own  impending  doom.  In  the  spring, 
when  navigation  opened,  the  wreck  was  discovered  by  some  fishermen. 
They  boarded  her,  and  found  a  man  alive  lying  by  the  side  of  a  corpse,  and 
in  the  last  stages  of  despair  and  glimmering  vitality.  After  receiving  suste- 
nance he  revived,  and  was  able  to  narrate  the  details  of  an  experience 
never  surpassed  by  the  most  harrowing  tales  of  suffering  at  sea. 

It  was  a  fact  attracting  attention  that,  although  the  weather  was  fine, 
we  saw  no  sea-birds  in  this  region  excepting  Mother  Carey's  chickens. 
Even  the  noisy  and  ubiquitous  gull  failed  to  put  in  an  appearance. 


IV. 

THREE  days  we  were  becalmed  off  the  coast  of  Newfoundland,  mak- 
ing scarcely  any  progress.  The  weather  was  too  fine  for  those 
waters,  urd  suggested  that  it  might  prove  a  weather-breeder  preced- 
ing a  storm,  while  we  were  yet  distant  from  port  on  a  perilous  coast.  At 
this  time,  and  in  fact  through  the  entire  voyage,  we  found  the  mornings 
and  evenings  cool,  and  often  needed  a  fire  in  our  stove  to  take  off  the  chill. 
We  stood  in  toward  Bear  Cove  on  the  third  morning,  and  a  glimpse  was 
revealed  to  us  of  the  ranges  which  give  such  grandeur  to  the  west  coast  of 
Newfoundland.  A  coast-range  of  mountains,  reaching  in  places  a  height 
of  three  thousand  feet,  trends  north  and  south.  The  abruptness  of  the 
slopes,  and  the  savage  character  of  the  numerous  ravines  which  intersect 
these  mountains,  add  greatly  to  the  formidable  aspect  they  present  from 
the  sea.  At  Bear  Cove  these  heights  approach  the  water  with  a  regularity 
resembling  stupendous  fortifications,  opening  here  and  there  like  mighty 
embrasures.  They  are  almost  as  bare  as  if  constructed  of  masonry,  but 
their  grim  and  forbidding  effect  is  slightly  modified  by  the  variety  of 
colors  that  beautify  the  rocky  ledges  of  which  they  are  composed. 
Nowhere  did  we  discern,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  faintest  sign  of 
human  or  animal  life,  but  over  land  and  sea  brooded  solitude. 

All  day  the  dead  calm  continued.     The  slatting  of  the  sails,  the  jerking 
of  the  booms,  and  the  groaning  of  the  timbers,  the  livelong  hours  as  we 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  73 

tossed  helplessly  on  the  regular  roll  of  the  westerly  swell,  were  most  exas- 
perating, especially  also  because  the  sea  was  gradually  setting  the  schooner 
close  in  under  the  cliffs.  In  fact,  we  were  so  far  in  that  we  lost  the  influ- 
ence of  a  light  breeze  from  the  eastward,  which  the  highlands  prevented 
from  reaching  our  sails.  We  were  almost  in  blue  water,  having  passed  off 
the  bank  which  shoals  the  water  in  the  center  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

After  dinner  we  took  soundings,  and  finding  that  the  vessel  had  drifted 
into  shallower  water,  the  cod-lines  were  brought  out  and  dropped  over  the 
side.  The  results  were  very  gratifying.  Scarcely  had  the  first  Ime 
reached  bottom  before  a  strong  bite  was  felt.  The  heavy  tug  on  the  line 
indicated  large  fish,  and  two  cod  of  unusual  size  were  found  attached  to  it. 
For  several  hours  all  hands  were  occupied  drawing  in  cod.  The  fish 
caught  that  afternoon  averaged  a  size  more  than  common,  and  the  after- 
deck  was  soon  heaped  up  with  a  fine  supply  of  fresh  meat.  Barrels  were 
brought  out  from  the  fore-peak,  and  the  fish  were  cleaned,  salted,  and 
barreled  for  future  use,  reserving  a  supply  for  present  needs.  A  cod-fish 
purchased  in  the  market  is  not  to  be  compared,  when  cooked,  with  one 
just  out  0/  water. 

As  ^he  day  wore  on,  light  puffs  from  the  southward  and  eastward 
carried  us  slowly  toward  the  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  which  we 
earnestly  hoped  to  enter  before  another  night  should  close  in.  South 
Head,  part  of  Lark  Mountain  lying  at  the  lower  side  of  the  port,  now 
towered  up  sublimely,  revealing  the  vast  chasm  which  is  hollowed  out  on 
its  western  or  sea  side.  This  chasm  resembles  a  crater  which  has  been 
depressed  on  one  side,  and  gives  a  volcanic  aspect  to  a  coast  which 
otherwise  shows  little  trace  of  igneous  action  in  its  forms.  A  singular 
peak  was  also  opened  up  in  the  interior,  fixed  in  the  edge  of  a  vertical 
precipice.  It  was  difficult  not  to  believe  it  a  feudal  tower  of  the  dark 
ages. 

But  the  aspect  of  the  weather  was  not  encouraging ;  for  the  sky  was 
becoming  overcast,  and  a  foreboding  gloom  accompanied  by  fog  was 
gathering  in  the  south.  The  mists  dropped  over  the  precipices  like 
waterfalls,  and  the  prospect  of  entering  the  Bay  of  Islands  not  only  grew 
beautifully  less,  but  just  as  we  were  able,  as  it  were,  to  look  in,  there  was 
every  reason  to  apprehend  that  we  should  have  to  make  an  offing.  A 
night  01  intense  silence  and  gloom  succeeded.  Occasionally  we  heard 
the  dull  echo  of  the  surf  beating  in  the  caves  of  South  Head.  Although 
the  weather  continued  calm,  it  was  a  night  when  one  prefers  not  to  sleep 
too  soundly.  Lest  we  should  drift  on  the  rocks,  we  headed  out  to  sea, 
but  toward  morning  a  southerly  breeze  sprang  up. 


74 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


SMAG   ROCKS'*      i      '^*'  He. 

TAT  OF  laiANDS^^^^^^-^ 


"  Head  her  in  for  the  bay,  Captain  Welsh.  We  want  to  get  in  before 
the  wind  changes  and  blows  us  out  to  sea  again." 

But  Captain  Welsh  was  a  "blue- water"  man.  He  liked  plenty  of  sea- 
room,  and  hesitated. 

"  Now's  our  chance,  captain.  It'll  be  daylight  before  we  are  up  with 
the  entrance  to  the  bay,  and  then  we  can  see  our  way  in.  At  any  rate, 
we've  got  to  get  there  to-day  ;  we've  fooled  out  here  long  enough.  It's 
to-day  or  never.  You  better  set  the  gaff-topsail  and  stay-sail,  and  make 
all  we  can  before  it  comes  on  to  blow." 

With  visible  reluctance  the  captain  sung  out :  "  Put  your  helm  up ! 
Here,  Tom,  slack  out  the  main-sheet !  Bill,  you  go  aloft  and  loose  the  top- 
sail!" 

But  there  was  no  spirit  in  the  breeze  ;  it  was  capricious  and  ineffi- 
cient, although  it  took  us  to  within  five  miles  of  the  entrance  before  it 

died  away.  The  gray  dawn 
now  showed  us  a  grim  outlook. 
The  cliffs  were  half  hidden  in 
driving  clouds,  and  the  sun 
seemed  to  take  no  interest  in 
lighting  up  what  promised  to 
be  a  very  dubious  day.  As 
the  light  increased  we  per- 
ceived a  line  of  angry  foam 
rapidly  coming  toward  us  dead 
ahead. 

"  There's  where  it's  coming 
out,"  said  the  captain,  taking 
the  wheel  and  keeping  a  sharp 
lookout.  As  the  vessel  payed  off  to  meet  the  wind,  it  truck  her  with 
great  /iolence,  laying  her  almost  on  her  beam  ends,  in  came  one  sail 
after  another  in  rapid  succession,  and  the  schooner  was  soon  in  fighting 
trim,  bavtling  with  a  furious  northeaster.  A  short,  violent  sea  swept 
often  over  the  deck,  and  every  timber  quivered  as  the  little  craft  jumped 
from  billow  to  billow.  The  wind  was  accompanied  by  heavy  sheets  of 
rain,  which  at  times  completely  shut  out  the  land.  Our  only  course  was 
to  keep  hammering  away  at  it,  and  do  our  best  to  beat  into  the  bay,  at 
least  so  long  as  it  did  not  blow  too  hard  to  carry  sail.  The  squalls  off  the 
highland  were  frequent  and  violent,  although,  following  the  instructions 
of  the  navigation  guide-book,  we  took  good  care  not  to  get  too  close 
under  its  lee. 


J^onRitudr-   \\  cat   58    Inmi  Gretnwjch 


The  Cruise  of  the  ^^  Alice  May"  through  the  Bay 
of  Islands. 


THE  CRUISE  OE   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


75 


I  never  shall  forget  how  Guernsey  Island  looked  that  morning  as  the 
little  schooner  ran  under  its  tremendous  cliffs  and  tacked.  One  thou- 
sand feet  above  us  it  towered,  a  vertical  rock  over  which  the  mists  drove 
like  smoke.  Although  we  were  fully  a  mile  from  it,  it  fairly  seemed  but 
a  stone's  throw  from  the  ship.  This  Gibraltar-like  rock  lies  midway  in 
the  channel.  Although  it  is  two  full  miles  from  South  Head,  it  was  im- 
possible to  believe  it.  The  cliffs  on  each  side  were  so  vast,  it  was  only  by 
timing  the  distance  as  we  tacked  from  side  to  side  that  I  could  credit 


Giiernsev  Island. 


what  the  chart  and  dividers  stated.  But  even  after  I  was  convinced  that 
it  was  two  long  miles  between  the  headlands,  I  could  not  realize  it  until 
I  had  seen  the  heights  at  all  times  of  the  day  and  in  all  states  of  the  atmos- 
phere. 

After  struggling  at  her  task  all  the  morning,  the  Alice  May  finally 
reached  into  the  Bay  of  Islands  and  came  abreast  of  Lark  Harbor.  The 
wind  now  capriciously  died  away,  and  she  was  in  danger  of  losing  all 
she  had  gained,  owing  to  the  rapid  tide  and  current  running  out  of  the 


76 


THE  CRUISE  OE  THE  ALICE  MAY, 


bay,  when  a  sea-wind  sprung  up  and  wafted  us  where  we  could  anchor, 
if  necessary.  The  sun  also  came  out ;  the  clouds  rolled  away,  and  the 
magnificent  scenery  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  lay  around  us.  We  felt  more 
than  repaid  for  the  effort  required  to  reach  it.  The  coast  scenery  of  the 
world  offers  few  prospects  more  grand,  more  varied,  more  enchantingly 
beautiful  than  this.  Certainly  on  the  i^  tlantic  coast  of  North  America  its 
equal  is  not  to  be  found. 

The   Bay  of  Islands  is  about  twelve  miles  square.      Its  entrance  is 
guarded  by  Guernsey,  Pearl,  and  Tweed   Islands,  which  are  all  exceed- 


The  Bay  of  Islands. 


ingly  lofty.  Guernsey  is  also  called  Ouibol  by  the  French.  Opposite 
Guernsey  is  Lark  Mountain  ;  it  is  isolated  and  rises  one  thousand  three 
hundred  and  six  feet,  terminating  in  what  is  called  South  Head.  This 
was  the  scene  of  a  remarkable  incident  some  years  ago.  In  a  heated 
altercation  the  mate  of  a  French  ship  killed  the  captain.  A  sort  of  drum- 
head court-martial  held  on  deck  condemned  the  wretch  to  die.  But  he 
was  given  his  choice  either  to  be  swung  from  the  yard-arm,  or  cHmb  to 
the  top  of  South  Head  and  leap  over  the  precipice.  He  chose  the  latter. 
With   his  arms  pinioned  he  was  conducted  to  the  brow  of  the  fearful 


THE  CRUISE   OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


77 


precipice,  and  when  the  word  was  given,  boldly  sprang  into  the  air.  His 
body  never  was  found,  having  probably  lodged  in  a  cleft  in  the  side  of 
the  cliff.  Such  a  death  seems  to  suggest  that  the  doomed  man  was  con- 
scious of  being  not  wholly  in  the  wrong  in  the  quarrel  which  thus  resulted 
in  the  death 
of  two  men. 
No  ordina- 
ry criminal 
could  have 
deliberately 


accepted 
death  in 
such  a  form. 
Adjoin- 
ing Lark 
Mountain  is 
Lark  Har- 
bor, a  deep, 
narrow,  and 

most  romantic  cove,  almost  inclosed 
by    overhanging,     densely    wooded 
crags,  offering  sale  anchorage,  but  lia- 
ble to  furious  squalls.     Eastward  of  this 
opens  a  lovely  bay  called  York  Harbor, 
protected  by  a  low,  wooded  isle.     Here 
are  two  or  three  huts  occupied  by  miners, 
the  first  dwellings  we  had  seen  since  we 
left  the  Magdalen  Islands.     This  delicious 
sheet  of  water  is  dominated  on  the  east  by 
the  sublime  grandeur  of  Blomidon,  which 
terminates  one  of  the  coast-ranges.     Blomi- 
don is  two  thousand  and  forty-three  feet 
high,  and  is  crowned  vWth  an  overhanging 
rampart  of  rock,  which  abuts  on  a  nearly 
vertical  slope  that  plunges  fifteen  hundred 
feet.     In  one  spot  the  crags  take  the  form 

of  an  enormous  eagle's  claw,  burying  its  talons  in  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain. From  the  summit  a  waterfall  slips  over  the  edge  of  the  cliff  and 
dangles  downward,  like  a  flexible  band  of  silver,  until  lost  in  the  impene- 
trable forests  which  clothe  the  base  of  Blomidon.     These  forests  form  one 


Prospecting. 


78  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  Bay  of  Islands.  The  southern 
side  of  the  bay  is  a  mass  of  tangled  woods,  generally  spruce,  birch,  and 
fir,  interlocking  their  boughs,  and  intertwined  by  an  almost  impenetra- 
ble thicket.  There  are  tracts  in  that  solitude  where  the  axe  has  never 
rung  since  the  creation.  Bear,  deer,  beaver,  partridges,  and  hare  abound 
in  '  hese  woods.  The  hunters  of  the  beaver  assume  the  right  to  a  certain 
region,  and  others  venturing  to  hunt  on  this  claim  are  liable  to  get  into 
trouble.  The  flanking  ranges  of  Blomidon  are  wild  in  form,  presenting 
abrupt  peaks  springing  out  of  the  woods,  and  valleys  bathed  in  delicate 
hues.  Comparisons  are  considered  odious,  but  I  could  not  help  comparing 
this  part  of  the  shores  of  the  bay  to  the  shores  of  the  Clyde  and  the  adjoin- 
ing Trosachs. 

Blomidon  may  almost  be  said  to  be  a  solid  mass  of  copper.  It  abounds 
in  that  mineral.  It  is  well  known  that  copper  ore  has  been  exported  from 
the  northern  coast  of  Newfoundland  to  the  smelting  furnaces  of  Swansea 
for  many  years  past.  But  the  explorations  recently  made  at  the  Bay  of 
Islands  have  shown  that  these  shores  are  rich  in  undeveloped  mineral 
wealth.  Ore  containing  silver  has  been  found  in  some  quantity,  and  gold,  it 
is  stated  ;  but  of  this  the  evidence  is  less  satisfactory.  The  land  at  the  foot 
of  Blomidon  has  been  marked  out,  and  a  company  is  now  running  shafts 
into  the  mountain  and  prospecting.  A  claim  of  three  square  miles  may  be 
obtained  for  six  pounds,  good  for  three  years.  But  the  Government  of 
Newfoundland  has  a  claim  on  two-thirds,  or  two  miles  of  each  claim.  The 
Swansea  Company  is  working  the  ore,  or  rather  furnishing  the  capital  to 
develop  the  veins.  The  time  is  not  very  distant  when  the  world  will 
awake  to  a  consciousness  of  the  mineral  wealth  and  abundant  timber 
resources  of  Newfoundland. 

The  southern  side  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  is  lined  with  lofty  ranges  of 
precipices,  more  bare  than  those  already  described,  but  rivaling  them  in 
beauty.  Their  stern  and  sterile  character  really  enhances  the  loveliness  of 
the  tints  in  which  an  afternoon  light  suffuses  them.  They  are  clear-cut  in 
outline,  and  rose-gray  and  tender  purple  in  color.  Frequently  among  the 
higher  crags  of  these  mountains  of  Newfoundland  patches  of  snow,  many 
acres  in  extent,  were  seen,  although  it  was  now  the  month  of  August.  We 
were  assured  that  this  snow  never  leaves  these  spots,  where  it  lies  even  in 
midsummer  thirty  to  fifty  feet  deep  at  no  greater  altitude  than  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  sea.  The  north  shore  is  cleft  by  wonderful  fiords, 
called  the  North  and  South  Arms.  The  cliffs  which  inclose  them  rise  per- 
pendicularly from  the  water  for  many  hundred  feet. 

About  the  center  of  the  bay  lies  Harbor  Island.     We  headed  for  it, 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  79 

proposing  to  find  an  anchorage  there,  the  water  elsewhere  being  generally 
of  great  depth.  We  found  the  wind  baffling,  and  the  schooner  was 
repeatedly  seized  by  swirling  eddies,  and  driven  back,  even  with  a  fresh 
breeze  filling  her  sails.  This  was  exceedingly  perplexing,  and  drove  Cap- 
tain Welsh  to  his  wits'  ends.  The  full  i.ioon  arose  superbly  while  we  were 
drifting  in  the  chann^'l  between  Harbor  Island  and  Blomidon,  and  we 
finally  anchored  near  Frenchman's  Cove,  at  the  foot  of  this  sublime  mount- 
ain. We  seemed  to  be  in  a  fabled  region  peopled  by  giants.  The  scenery 
we  had  seen  during  the  day  produced  such  impressions  of  grandeur  and 
primeval  solitude  that  I  should  not  have  been  in  the  least  surprised  if 
gigantic  Cyclopean  beings  had  waded  out  from  the  vast  overhanging 
forests  which  draped  the  cliffs  under  which  our  little  ship  was  anchored. 

The  following  day  opened  calm  and  lovely.  Far  away,  a  number  of 
schooners  could  be  seen  at  the  mouth  of  the  Humber  River.  It  was  fortu- 
nate we  saw  them  there,  for  it  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  gauging  the 
height  of  the  cliffs  which  skirt  the  bay.  Vessels  with  masts  ninety  feet 
high  were  mere  white  specks  against  the  clifTs  when  miles  this  side  of 
them.  Having  already  lost  so  much  time,  we  concluded  to  take  advantage 
of  the  fine  weather  to  run  to  the  southward,  and  stood  again  toward  the 
mouth  of  the  bay.  But  we  had  not  gone  far  when  vessels  were  seen  run- 
ning in,  bringing  with  them  a  strong  westerly  wind  and  a  high  sea.  A 
short  trial  with  the  rapidly  rising  waves  proved  that  we  should  simply 
lose  time  in  trying  to  beat  out  in  so  small  a  vessel.  Therefore  we  put  the 
helm  up,  and  decided  to  run  to  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Humber.  It 
was  a  wild,  exciting  sail  of  some  twenty  miles,  between  lofty  shores  of 
novel  and  remarkable  loveliness. 

At  the  very  entrance  to  the  river  we  began  to  see  houses  and  clearings, 
and  realized  that  we  were  entering  upon  altogether  a  distinct  phase  of  the 
attractions  of  the  Bay  of  Islands.  Clusters  of  houses,  enlarging  sometimes 
into  hamlets,  were  frequent ;  and  new  houses  were  in  process  of  construc- 
tion in  many  places,  indicating  activity  and  a  growing  population.  At 
Benoit's  Cove  and  Beechy  Cove,  pretty  chapels  were  seen,  and  a  number 
of  important  dwellings.  At  the  latter  place  Mr.  Evans,  the  only  American 
in  the  bay,  has  a  trading  and  fishing  establishment.  But  we  were  unable 
to  give  undivided  attention  to  the  beauty  unfolded  at  each  point  we  passed, 
for  the  schooner  required  careful  watching.  In  company  with  several 
other  schooners,  we  were  running  wing-and-wing  before  a  very  fresh  and 
puffy  wind.  But  in  spite  of  the  force  of  the  breeze,  counter-flaws  would 
come  off  the  land  with  great  suddenness,  taking  the  sails  all  aback,  and 
threatening  to  carry  away  the  masts  or  capsize    he  vessel.    In  one  of  these 


So  THE   CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

flaws  our  mainsail  jibed  with  such  force  as  to  carry  away  the  boom  guy- 
tackle  and  belaying-pin.  It  is  a  wonder  the  head  oi  the  mast  was  not  car- 
ried away,  as  happened  to  a  schooner  which  was  alongside  of  us.  At 
another  time  the  Alice  May  would  strike  an  eddy,  and  be  completely 
turned  around,  while  the  (jther  ships  would  sail  past  her  as  if  she  were 
aground.  At  the  same  moment,  perhaps  within  the  space  of  half  a  mile, 
several  schooners  might  be  seen  running  with  a  stiff  breeze,  or  tacking  or 
becalmed  ;  and  yet  all  were  bound  in  the  same  direction.  The  westerly 
wind  finally  succeeded  in  carrying  all  before  it,  and  we  anchored  at  Peli- 
pas,  the  head  of  navigation,  as  the  setting  sun  was  mantling  the  shores  and 
gorge  of  the  Humber  with  indescribable  splendor.  We  were  obliged  to 
anchor  within  a  cable's  length,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  from  the 
shore,  as  in  almost  every  other  part  of  the  Humber  below  Petipas  the 
water  has  great  depth.  In  mid-channel  it  is  rarely  under  sixty  fathoms, 
and  often  reaches  ninety  fathoms.  If  we  give  what  to  some  ma)  seem  too 
many  topographical  details,  it  is  partly  with  a  view  of  aiding  those  who 
may  think  of  cruising  in  those  waters  in  a  yacht. 

Petipas,  pronounced  Petipaw  by  the  natives,  is  named  after  a  Jersey 
Islander  who  was  the  first  important  settler  at  the  Bay  of  Islands.  He 
started  a  fishing  establishment,  and  opened  a  thriving  trade.  But  he  is 
now  with  "  the  majority,"  and  since  his  death  the  family  has  become 
embarrassed,  and  the  establishment  is  closed.  There  is  p.o  street  in  this 
little  settlement.  It  consists  of  a  simj)le  aggregation  of  houses,  perched 
here  and  there,  wherever  a  foothold  could  be  obtained  among  the  n)cky 
ledges  which  compose  the  precipitous  hill  on  which  the  hamlet  has  found 
a  lodgment.  To  reach  these  houses,  one  may  land  anywhere,  and  climb 
over  rocks  and  fences,  and  scramble  up  and  down  rough  goat-paths.  One 
of  the  prettiest  spots  at  Petipas  is  the  old  saw-mill,  just  at  the  water's  edge, 
at  the  foot  of  a  picturesque  ravine,  musical  with  the  dashing  of  a  merry 
trout-brook  overgrown  with  sedge.  Near  to  this,  on  the  smoothest  piece 
of  land  in  the  settlement,  stands  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  rejoicing  in 
a  new  coat  of  paint  and  some  stained  glass.  Near  the  church  is  the  com- 
modious mansion  of  Mr.  Carter,  at  present  the  magnate  of  the  place,  who 
enjoys  a  monopoly  of  its  business.  A  small  place  like  Petipas  always  has 
its  leading  citi/en,  who  acts  the  part  of  an  uncrowned  chief.  His  will  is 
law  ;  for  by  force  of  character  he  has  succeeded  in  getting  the  business  of 
the  place  mostly  into  his  own  hands,  and  the  poor,  who  form  by  far  the 
largest  number  in  such  a  communitv,  look  to  him  for  advances  and  supj)lies, 
which  results,  if  he  is  shrewd,  in  ])lacing  them  in  his  power.  Mr.  Carter  is  a 
typical  example  of  this  class  of  local  despots,  exactly  fitted  to  rule  among 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


8l 


the  desperate  characters  with  whom  he  has  to  deal.  His  head  is  set  on 
enormous  shoulders  with  a  short  thick  neck  ;  a  shaggy  beard,  intensely 
black,  Hows  down  to  his  waist,  and  his  quick,  keen,  eagle  eye  carries  terror 
to  any  so  daring  as  openly  to  cross  his  will  or  question  the  unwritten  code 
by  which  he  reigns  at  Petipas  and  regulates  its  trade.  Probably  such  rule 
is  better  than  none  in  a  place  like  this. 

"  Have  you  seen  our  police  force?  "  inquired  Mr.  Carter  one  morning, 
when  we  were  in  his  store.  "No?  Well,  here  it  is!"  and  suiting  the 
action  to  the  word,  he  drew  out  a  massive  piece  of  tarred,  three-inch  rope, 


"^^^^e*^ 


^^s^^^., 


^r^' 


**^^-  it^*e 


r^nf^^t 


.^^•^•li**;'::-!^ 


^WV-^-at 


'^t|«" 


:--~-si- 


•  ■>^—  >  ,s 


C/p  the  River  Humber. 


I 


about  four  feet  long,  and  brought  it  down  on  the  counter  with  a  resound- 
ing blow.  *'  Oh,  many's  the  time  Pve  had  to  use  that,"  he  added,  "  when 
this  store's  been  full  of  fishermen,  sailors,  half-breeds,  and  Indians,  half 
drunk  and  full  •^'^  deviltry.  There  was  no  authority  to  call  in  to  keep  the 
peace,  and  I've  had  to  lay  about  with  this  bit  of  twine,  and  clear  the  room 
by  hitting  right  and  left!  It  isn't  (juite  so  bad  as  that  now,  you  see,  since 
the  herring  nshery  failed  ;  there  are  not  so  many  fishermen  about ;  our 
people,  too,  are  getting  to  be  a  little  more  civilized.  But  this  is  a  sort  of  a 
Botany  Baj-,  you  know,  with  little  regular  government,  and  where  it  won't 
do  to  ask  too  much  about  a  man's  antecedents."       -^^ 


82 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


The  western  and  southern  coasts  of  Newfoundland  are  a  constant 
source  of  entanglement  between  the  EngUsh  and  the  French  government. 
The  matter  is  sufficiently  complicated,  various  treaties  having  failed  to 
settle  the  question  so  that  it  can  stay  settled.     As  the  matter  now  stands, 


Fishing  off  the  Bay  of  Islands. 


it  seems  that  the  French  have  a  right  to  put  up  fish-stages  and  temporary 
huts  for  summer  use  immediately  by  the  water.  But  they  can  not  erect 
permanent  dwellings,  nor  are  they  permitted  to  purchase  land  unless  they 
become  British  citizens.     French  men-'^f-war  may  cruise  on  the  coast  and 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  83 

have  stations,  while  no  French  courts  of  justice  are  allowed  On  the  other 
hand,  the  Government  of  Newfoundland  has  at  last  taken  steps  to  assert  its 
authority  on  the  H umber.  A  fine  residence  has  been  erected  at  Benoit's 
Cove,  opposite  Petipas,  for  the  judge  ;  and  when  we  were  there,  a  member 
from  that  district  was  to  be  elected  for  the  first  time  to  represent  it  in  the 
Legislature  at  St.  John's.  But  while  claiming  legislative  and  judicial 
rights  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  the  English  do  not  yet  dare  to  give  a  title  to 
land,  and  it  is  impossible  for  any  one  to  acquire  the  fee-simple  of  even 
enough  to  build  upon.  The  English  Government  can  only  say  to  the 
settler,  "  Turn  squatter,  and  build  wherever  you  like.  So  long  as  the 
French  do  not  claim  it  for  fishing  purposes,  it  is  yours ;  but  we  can  not 
sell  outright  land  already  liable  to  the  claims  of  the  French  fishermen." 

Such  a  condition  of  things  has  naturally  made  this  a  safe  refuge  for 
outlaws,  and  the  population  on  the  Humber  is,  therefore,  such  as  one 
might  expect  under  the  circumstances.  The  herring  fisheries  and  the 
lumber  trade  have,  however,  attracted  hither  a  number  of  reputable  and 
enterprising  adventurers,  who  contrive  that  order  shall  come  out  of  ch?os, 
and  the  community  is  for  the  most  part  orderly.  The  people  are  English, 
Irish,  French,  and  Indians.     The  latter  are  few  in  number  and  peaceable. 

The  herring  fishery  on  the  Humber  was  at  one  time  very  profitable. 
The  fish  were  caught  mostly  in  nets  let  down  through  the  ice  in  winter. 
It  was  not  uncommon  to  see  a  hundred  schooners,  barks,  and  steamers 
lying  off  Petipas  in  the  height  of  the  season.  Six  years  ago  the  herring 
suddenly  left  for  parts  unknown,  and  the  prosperity  of  the  place  came  to  a 
stop.  But  a  year  ago  the  herring  returned,  and  meantime  a  thriving 
lumber  trade  has  sprung  up,  and  the  tide  of  prosperity  again  sets  up  the 
Humber.  ^      > 

Another  source  of  income  is  also  gradunUy  coming  to  the  worthy 
Humberites.  Two  miles  above  Petipas  is  the  tremendous  gorge  of  the 
Humber.  Here  the  banks  contract  to  a  narrow  channel,  overhung  on 
either  hand,  for  a  space  of  nine  miles,  by  vertical  precipices,  between 
which  the  river  dashes  down  roaring  rapids.  Although  the  current  here 
is  dangerous,  it  is  safely  passed  by  the  long  canoes  of  the  Indian  coiirctirs 
des  bois.  Beyond  this  the  river  widens  again  until  it  meets  Deer  Lake,  a 
long,  narrow  sheet  of  water  thirty  miles  in  length,  lying  in  a  flat  country 
covered  with  forests.  The  river  and  lake  abound  with  trout  and  salmon, 
and  the  forests  fairly  teem  with  game.  Already  gentlemen  of  leisure  from 
Canada  and  Great  Britain  have  begun  to  visit  the  Bay  of  T5;lands  and  the 
Humber  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  and  fishing,  and  there  is  no  question 
that  this  is  destined  to  be  ere  long  a  favorite  hunting-ground. 


84  THE  CRUISE  OE   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

Directly  Opposite  Petipas,  a  mile  and  a  half  across  the  river,  lies  the 
very  pretty  settlement  called  Benoit's  Cove.  It  is  situated  on  richer 
ground,  is  larger,  and  is  peopled  by  a  better  class.  Some  very  neat  cot- 
tages are  to  be  seen  here,  nestling  amid  clusters  of  shrubbery  and  birches. 
Here  are  two  or  three  fishing  establishments,  the  magistrate's  residence, 
the  telegraph- office,  and  an  Episcopal  church.  Mr.  Curling,  the  rector,  is 
a  gentleman  of  large  fortune,  who  has  built  himself  an  extensive,  many- 
gabled  mansion.  He  is  also  a  practical  sailor,  infected  with  a  mania  for 
the  sea,  and  has  a  yacht  of  forty  tons  which  he  constructed  there,  and  in 
which  he  cruises  in  all  weathers,  having  the  reputation  of  being  a  sort 
of  Flyirg  Dutchman  who  defies  the  storms. 

The  settlers  of  the  Humber  must  needs  find  means  of  entertainment 
at  home,  for  they  nave  but  little  communication  with  the  rest  of  the 
world ;  their  own  island  even  is  almost  as  far  off  as  if  it  were  the  other 
side  of  the  Atlantic.  Until  within  ten  years  only  one  white  man  had  been 
known  to  cross  the  Island  of  Newfoundland ;  and  to  this  day  a  large  part 
of  the  interior  is  unknown.  A  telegraph  wire  now  runs  through  the 
woods  from  Benoit's  Cove  to  Hall's  Bay,  and  a  foot  traveler,  by  follow- 
ing the  road  cut  for  the  wire,  can  proceed  from  Deer  Lake  to  Hall's  Bay, 
on  the  northern  coast,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  In  sum- 
mer a  steamer  arrives  from  St.  John's  once  a  month  by  way  of  Cape  Ray, 
or,  as  the  natives  call  it,  through  the  channel.  This  is  the  only  mail  com- 
munication for  that  season.  For  the  seven  months  of  winter  the  mails 
are  still  more  infrequent.  About  once  every  six  weeks  an  Indian  comes 
from  Hall's  Bay  on  snow-shoes  and  stops  at  Petipas.  There  he  takes  the 
mail-bags  and  carries  them  to  Codroy  in  the  channel,  where  he  meets  the 
steamer.  The  bags  are  carried  on  a  sledge  drawn  by  dogs,  and  from  the 
time  the  carrier  leaves  Hall's  Bay  he  sees  houses  only  twice. 

The  second  day  after  our  arrival  at  Petipas  it  came  on  to  rain  and 
blow.  Captain  Andrews,  the  superintendent  of  the  copper  mines  at 
Blomidon,  a  man  of  large  experience  and  intelligence,  visited  our  schooner 
and  dined  with  us.  As  it  was  still  raining,  it  was  suggested  after 
dinner  that,  donning  waterproofs  and  sou' westers,  we  should  cross  to 
Benoit's  Cove  and  see  some  of  the  traders.  During  the  season  when  navi- 
gation is  open,  there  is  a  class  of  traders  who,  hiring  schooners  or  owning 
them,  cruise  among  the  out-of-the-way  ports  of  Labrador  and  Newfound- 
land, exchanging  pork,  sugar,  tea,  tobacco,  cotton  cloth,  sea-boots,  and 
the  hke,  for  dried  fish.  They  are  a  shrewd  and  enterprising  class,  ac- 
customed to  see  a  great  deal  of  the  rough  side  of  life,  and  willing  to  run 
any  risk  for  the  sake  of  earning  a  few  dollars.     They  might  well  be  called 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


85 


nautical  peddlers.  Most  of  the  schooners  that  sailed  in  our  company  up 
the  Humber  were  traders.  We  ordered  out  the  boat  and  crossed  to  Be- 
noit's  Cove,  and  were  introduced  by  Captain  Andrews  to  Captain  Shelley, 
who  invited  us  aboard  of  his  schooner.  '•*- 

Stepping  below,  out  of  the  drenching  torrents  of  rain,  we  found  our- 


\<v. 


The  Mail-Carrier. 


selves  among  a  crowd  of  traders  and  skippers  seeking  shelter  in  a  noi- 
some cuddy,  old  and  dirty  and  paintless,  piled  with  wares  and  recking 
with  the  fragrance  of  bilge  water,  wet  boots,  bad  rum,  and  bad  tobacco. 
But  although  there  were  evidences  that  the  one  glass  in  the  cuddy  had 


86  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

been  circulating  pretty  freely,  washed  out  at  each  drink  by  the  more 
fastidious  with  cold  tea  out  of  a  rusty  tea-kettle,  yet  no  one  appeared  the 
worse  for  the  liquor  excepting  Captain  Shelley,  who  was  full  of  talk.  All 
were  Irishmen,  with  one  or  two  exceptions.  Captain  Shelley  was  himself 
a  man  gifted  with  genuine  Hibernian  wit,  repartee,  and  unctuous  elo- 
quence ;  and,  true  Irishman  that  he  was,  he  was  deeply  interested  in 
politics.  The  subject  then  uppermost  in  his  mind,  as  in  that  of  most 
residents  on  the  Humber  at  the  time,  was  the  approaching  election  of  a 
representative  for  the  insular  Legislature.  The  conversation  in  that  little 
cuddy  was  lively  enough,  eliciting  much  laughter,  and  vSome  shrewd  and 
serious  argument.  But  Captain  Shelley,  ever  on  his  feet,  as  if  addressing 
an  audience,  was  the  hero  of  the  hour ;  and  the  roar  of  thunder,  and  the 
loud  beating  of  the  rain  on  deck  only  seemed  to  add  to  his  eloquent  vi- 
vacity. Among  other  remarks,  alluding  to  the  would-be  gentry  at  St. 
John's,  he  said :  ''  They  bring  up  their  sons  to  despise  business ;  they 
educate  them  for  lawyers,  and  they  become  mere  two-penny-ha'penny 
button-tossers,  without  brains  enough  to  last  them  till  morning,  be  the 
night  ever  so  short."  Again  he  remarked :  ''  I  have  no  enemies,  or  at 
least,  if  I  have,  they  don't  live  long." 

The  rain  slackened  toward  sunset,  and  we  returned  to  supper,  when 
the  Humber  was  all  aglow  with  a  magnificent  burst  of  sunlight,  and 
spanned  by  a  perfect  rainbow. 

The  Captain  of  the  James  Diuycr,  a  schooner  lying  near  to  us,  gave  a 
dance  that  night  in  a  vacant  loft  near  the  wharf.  He  wanted  to  ingratiate 
the  people,  and  incline  them  to  trade  with  him,  and  this  was  the  means  he 
wisely  adopted.  To  him  the  expense  was  very  trifling,  while  it  produced 
a  genuine  sensation  at  Petipas,  and  put  every  one  in  the  best  of  humor. 
I  don't  think  that  I  could  ever  forget  that  dance.  It  left  a  very  singular 
impression  on  my  mind.  The  night  was  perfectly  clear  and  serene.  From 
the  schooner  we  could  hear  the  people  picking  their  way  down  the  rocks 
to  the  scene  of  festivity.  Then  the  squeak  of  the  fiddle  floated  over  the 
water,  and  a  steady  beating  sound  began,  heavy  and  regular  as  the  drum- 
ming of  a  shuttle  or  the  beating  of  flails.  With  it  was  perceptible  a  cer- 
tain rhythm  at  intervals.  What  we  heard  was  the  heavy  tramp  of  the 
dancers.  Evidently,  they  were  not  chasing  the  hours  with  flying  feet 
shod  with  Parisian  pumps  and  slippers.  When  this  had  lasted  for  several 
hours,  we  could  stand  it  no  longer,  and  decided  to  go  on  shore  and  see 
the  dance  ourselves.  Part  of  our  crew  had  already  preceded  us,  and  we 
found  them  excited  with  gm,  and  aiding  to  give  the  girls  of  Petipas  royal 
sport. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


87 


On  landing,  we  met  the  skipper  of  the  trading  schooner,  himself  both 
trader  and  Captain,  a  tall,  well-made  person,  six  feet  in  his  stockings, 
straight  as  a  ruler,  and  combining  in  his  manner  and  expression  shrewd- 
ness and  executive  ability.  His  strong  hand  and  his  quick,  decisive  man- 
ner, showed  the  commander ;  while  his  somewhat  refined  features  and 
clear,  sharp,  gray  eye,  indicated  the  man  of  business.  "  Walk  up,  gentle- 
men ;  walk  up  and  make  yourselves  at  home,"  he  said,  in  a  pleasant  but  au- 


The  Dance  at  Petipas. 

thoritative  tone,  as  he  showed  us  into  the  building  where  the  dance  was 
going  on,  for  he  was  both  host  and  master  of  ceremonies.  There  was  not 
a  Hght  visible  to  guide  our  steps  as  we  stumbled  across  a  high  threshold 
out  of  the  moonlight  into  a  darkness  that  might  be  felt. 

"  Look  out  for  your  heads!  turn  to  your  right ! "  he  called  out,  as  he 
heard  us  tumbling  over  each  other,  groping  for  something  to  take  hold 


88  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

of.  Finally  we  hit  on  a  ladder,  and  knew  by  the  sound  that  it  was  leading 
us  to  the  festal  hall.  Some  one  opened  a  door  suddenly,  and  revealed  the 
floor  of  a  loft,  on  which  we  hastened  to  plant  our  feet. 

Through  a  low  door  we  entered  a  small,  low-ceiled  room,  dimly  lighted 
by  two  or  three  tallow  dips,  set  on  a  barrel  in  bottles.  The  air  .vas  con- 
fusedly hazy  with  the  dust  beaten  out  of  the  floor  and  the  rafters  above  by 
the  tread  of  the  dancers.  Several  score  of  people  were  crammed  into  a 
small  compass,  and  care  had  been  taken  to  keep  doors  and  windows 
closed.  For  people  so  accustomed  to  exposure,  they  showed  a  wonderful 
dread  of  fresh  air.  The  spectators,  consisting  of  matrons,  children,  and 
old  fishermen,  were  seated  on  a  bench  running  round  two  sides  of  the 
room.  The  music  was  supplied  by  an  uncouth  fiddler,  who  sat  on  the 
window-seat,  with  a  violin  to  which  he  beat  time,  thumping  his  heels 
against  the  wall.  The  provisions  for  the  entertainment  consisted  of  some 
very  bad  gin,  set  out  with  glasses  and  hard-tack  on  the  \  ead  of  a  barrel. 
In  the  center  of  the  floor  were  half  a  dozen  lads  and  as  many  lassies  en- 
gaged in  a  dead-and-alive  waltz,  without  any  apparent  beginning  or  end 
to  it.  They  reminded  me  of  a  group  of  puppets  arranged  with  wires, 
moving  about  as  they  did  with  the  interest  and  gracefulness  of  so  many 
wooden  figures.  It  was  one  of  the  most  amusing  sights  imaginable. 
There  was  no  expression  in  their  faces,  but  they  hopped  up  and  down 
with  a  steady  tattoo  on  the  floor.  After  this  movement  had  lasted  for 
some  moments,  without  any  apparent  change  in  the  position  of  the  human 
puppets,  the  fiddler  sent  his  tune  away  up  into  a  diabolical  squeak.  Re- 
sponding to  the  crescendo,  each  swain  fairly  lifted  his  partner  off  her  feet, 
whirled  her  about  the  room,  and  planted  her  squarely  on  the  floor  in 
another  place,  and  the  tattoo  was  resumed  with  a  persistent  fury  for  mo- 
notony, that  continued  until  the  next  shriek  of  the  fiddle-bow  once  more 
altered  the  position  of  the  couples.  This  might  have  continued  endlessly, 
without  the  least  variation,  but  there  seemed  to  be  knots  in  this  rope. 
When  these  were  reached  the  dance  stopped  and  a  rush  was  made  for  the 
refreshments.     In  one  of  these  interludes  v.e  made  our  escape. 

"  The  young  people  seem  to  be  enjoying  themselves,"  said  the  host,  as 
we  emerged  once  more  to  the  fresh  air.  •*  I  hope  you  enjoyed  yourselves, 
too.     Won't  you  come  aboard,  gentlemen  ?  " 

Accepting  his  invitation,  we  scrambled  into  the  cabin  of  his  schooner, 
and  were  surprised  to  find  what  a  fine  vessel  she  was,  how  completely 
equipped  and  thoroughly  stored  vvith  goods.  The  cabin  was  like  a  coun- 
try store,  the  sides  being  lined  with  shelves,  on  which  was  piled  a  little 
of  almost  everything  required  by  a  rural  and  fishing  population. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  89 

We  straightened  out  our  crew  in  the  morning,  by  ordering  them  no 
shore  to  fill  the  water  casks  and  bring  off  a  sheep.  After  that  they  were 
sent  to  the  windlass  to  heave  up  the  anchor,  and  we  made  sail  for  St. 
Pierre.  We  had  a  dead  beat  against  a  strong  breeze  to  South  Head  ;  but 
the  day  was  superb,  as  if  this  noble  bay  wished  to  fix  a  favorable  impres- 
sion upon  the  memory  of  the  voyagers  who  had  come  so  far  to  see  it. 
Blomidon  soared  majestically  above  us,  the  monarch  of  that  mountain 
land,  crowned  with  a  wreath  of  roseate  clouds,  and  the  surrounding  isles 
were  suffused  with  the  glow  of  a  peaceful  sunset.  The  water  of  the  Bay 
of  Islands  is  as  blue  as  that  of  the  Mediterranean.  In  this  case  it  can  not 
be  due  to  a  larger  proportion  of  salt,  which  is  the  cause  of  the  intense 
hues  of  the  sea  in  warm  climates,  so  it  must  be  attributed  to  the  great 
depth  of  the  Newfoundland  bay.  As  I  gazed  entranced  on  the  lovely 
scene  before  me,  I  was  able  for  the  first  time  to  realize,  by  the  aid  of  the 
golden  haze  veiling  the  long  slopes  and  tumbling  steeps,  the  grandeur  of 
the  sierras  which  inclose  the  Bay  of  Islands.  The  silence  was  intensified 
by  the  silvery  waterfalls  dropping  from  crag  to  crag  many  hundred  feet 
with  an  ethereal  motion,  and  yet  giving  forth  no  echo  or  sound  of  their 
dashing,  so  distant  were  they  from  our  ship.  But  to  the  eye  they  ap- 
peared to  be  only  a  few  brief  furlongs  away.  The  full  moon  loomed 
above  the  mountain-tops,  solemn  and  glorious ;  and  in  that  weird  stillness, 
and  touched  by  an  awesome  feeling  creeping  over  us,  as  if  we  were  alone 
in  all  the  mysterious  vastness  of  an  unknown  and  unexplored  region,  our 
little  schooner,  seeming  puny  as  a  cork-boat,  was  fanned  past  the  Titanic 
cliff's  which  form  the  gateway  ot  the  bay.  It  was  two  in  the  morning. 
All  slept  save  the  watch  and  the  writer.  No  sound  v/as  heard  except 
now  and  then  the  low  sighing  of  a  passing  gust  through  the  sails,  or  the 
long,  low,  far-away  boom  of  the  surf  rolling  into  the  caves  of  the  implaca- 
ble cliffs,  and  reverberating  with  muffled  thunder  down  that  iron-bound 

COaut. 

But  sentiment  was  soon  forced  to  yield  to  reality,  for  we  wer:  be- 
calmed on  a  lee  shore,  and  were  rapidly  drifting  toward  it  with  the  heav- 
ing of  the  swell.  After  exhausting  every  device  in  vain,  we  were  happily 
saved  from  the  doom  which  drew  nearer  every  moment  by  a  light  breeze 
off  the  land.  The  following  day  was  of  that  nondescript  character  which 
infuriates  the  mariner  to  the  last  degree.  Baffling  winds  and  calms, 
thunder-squalls,  and  the  prospect  of  another  night  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
coast,  terminated  in  a  sunset  of  more  than  usual  magnificence,  with  a  wild 
burst  of  rain  hurrying  over  a  leaden  sea,  attended  by  several  rainbows 
and  masses  of  cumuli  rolling  up  sublime  over  the  Bay  of  Islands.     I  never 


90 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


knew  the  sign  of  the  rainbow  to  fail  at  sea.  It  is  the  infallible  prognos- 
ticator  of  bad  weather  when  seen  at  morning ;  while  the  most  cautious 
mariner  may  pace  the  night-watches  in  hope  and  dream  sweetly  of  his 
home  when  the  bow  of  promise  arches  opposite  to  the  setting  sun.  The 
mercury  now  rose  rapidly,  and  by  midnight  a  fresh  northeaster  set  in. 
This  was  exactly  the  wind  we  needed.  At  breakfast-time  every  heart  on 
board  was  exhilarated.  We  had  reason  to  rejoice,  for  the  little  schooner 
was  bounding  ahead  wing  and  wing  on  the  rising  sea,  with  half  a  gale 
dead  aft,  and  "  Ho,  for  St.  Pierre !  "  was  again  the  cry. 


B 


V. 

ORNE  by  the  Newfoundland  breeze  which  roused  us  from  apathy 
the  second  morning  after  leaving  the  Bay  of  Islands,  we  cherished 
hopes  of  seeing  St.  Pierre  by  night  of  the  morrow. 

Cape  Anguille  appeared  in 
sight  about  noon,  and  we  were 
abreast  of  Codroy  at  sunset, 
with  the  lights  of  St.  Paul's 
Island  bearing  about  west  on 
the  starboard  beam.  This  isl- 
and lies  in  the  strait  between 
Cape  North  and  Cape  Ray, 
and  were  it  not  for  the  power- 
ful twin  light -houses  which 
warn  away  the  mariner,  would 
be  a  most  dangerous  foe  to 
ships,  owing  to  its  precipitous 
cliffs.  The  current  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  runs  on  the  west 
side  with  great  velocity,  and, 
in  fact,  is  a  serious  obstacle  to 

Map  of  the  Cruise  from  the  Bay  of  Islands  to  St.  Pierre.       vessels    COming    on    thiscoast 

from  the  south  and  east.  I  re- 
member once  being  in  a  bark  which  attempted  to  make  Sydney  in  a  gale 
of  wind.     Before  we  could  get  into  port  the  violence  of  the  northwester 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  9 1 

forced  us  to  heave  the  ship  to  on  the  port  tack.  This  was  toward  night, 
and  by  daybreak  she  had  drifted  with  the  current  out  of  sight  of  land, 
eighty  miles  to  leeward.  We  thought  of  touching  at  Codroy,  where  the 
scenery  is  said  to  rival  that  of  the  Bay  of  Islands,  although  on  a  less  exten- 
sive scale;  but  the  heavy  sea,  together  with  the  fair  wind  bearing  us 
toward  St.  Pierre,  led  us  to  keep  on  our  course.  Cape  Ray  was  passed  in 
the  first  watch.  It  is  a  bold  headland,  many  hundred  feet  high,  like  all 
this  remarkable  coast.  A  pyramid  island  projects  beyond  it,  crested  by 
the  star-like  gleam  of  a  friendly  light-house.  All  the  following  day  we  car- 
ried the  wind  with  us  until  night,  and  to  stimulate  the  wakefulness  of  the 
crew  we  offered  a  prize  to  the  one  who  first  sighted  the  light  of  St.  Pierre. 
The  dangers  attending  approach  to  these  islands,  especially  the  fog  liable 
to  appear  there  at  any  moment,  made  it  exceedingly  desirable  to  get  into 
port  before  a  change  of  wind.  But  no  one  was  destined  to  win  the  prize ; 
for  when  morning  dawned  the  islands  were  discerned  still  so  distant  that 
the  light-house  could  not  be  seen.  The  fact  was  that  the  wind  failed  us 
just  when  we  most  needed  it.  But  although  it  was  calm,  an  enormous 
swell  from  the  southwest  set  in,  indicating  a  storm  blowing  in  that  quar- 
ter and  liable  to  reach  us,  bringing  with  it  the  dreaded  fog  that  would 
oblige  us  to  put  out  to  sea  again.  To  make  matters  worse,  a  light  wind 
carried  us  actually  within  two  miles  of  the  passage  between  Miquelon  and 
St.  Pierre.  At  night-fall  we  were  becalmed,  unable  to  get  in  or  make  an 
offing.  The  glass  was  falling,  and  the  little  vessel  was  rolling  her  scuppers 
under,  entirely  helpless.  A  sublime  thunder-squall  struck  the  schooner  m 
the  first  watch.  The  lightning  resembled  rockets  shooting  from  the  hori- 
zon to  the  zenith,  and  the  thunder  rolled  over  the  surface  of  the  sea  like  the 
balls  that  Rip  Van  Winkle  heard  in  the  Catskill  Mountains.  A  sharp  wind 
out  of  the  southeast  and  a  fog  of  the  most  opaque  character  followed,  and 
we  were,  therefore,  in  a  condition  to  consider  any  change  as  preferable  to 
the  existing  order  of  things.  We  lay  off  and  on  all  night,  entertained  by 
the  roar  of  the  surf  on  the  ledges  which  skirt  the  islands.  We  tacked  at 
daylight  with  an  ugly  reef  just  under  the  bow,  and  the  steam  fog-horns  of 
the  two  islands  moaning  through  the  dripping  mist.  The  light-house  and 
fog-horn  of  Miquelon  have  been  long  an  absolute  necessity ;  for  on  the 
long  low  bar  between  Great  and  Little  Miquelon  many  a  good  ship  has 
laid  her  bones.     Two  steamers  were  wrecked  there  last  year. 

"  It's  no  use  talking,"  said  our  old  skipper ;  "  we  can't  dodge  around 
here  among  them  ledges.  I've  got  to  look  out  for  the  ship  and  the  lives 
on  board.  You  may  want  to  risk  trying  the  passage  ;  but  if  this  fog  don't 
lift  soon,  we'll  have  to  stick  the  jchooner  out  to  sea.     This  ain't  no  place 


92  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE   ALICE  MAY. 

to  be  fooling  with  fogs  and  reefs."  He  said  this  in  a  tone  and  with  an  en- 
ergy of  manner  which  indicated  that  the  lion  in  him  was  aroused,  and 
would  not  be  trifled  with.  We,  on  the  other  hand,  were  as  strongly  deter- 
mined on  keeping  close  in,  feeling  our  way  by  the  lead  c'nd  the  sound  of 
the  fog-whistles,  and  watching  for  the  first  break  in  the  fog  to  work  the 
ship  to  an  anchorage. 

At  this  critical  moment,  when  a  conflict  of  authority  seemed  imminent, 
we  were  all  standing  on  the  bow  peering  into  the  fog,  and  trying  to  dis- 
cover something.  The  roar  of  the  surf  was  near  at  hand,  and  the  skipper 
was  about  to  give  the  word  to  put  up  the  helm,  when  the  fog  suddenly 
parted.  Directly  over  our  heads  loomed  the  red  cliffs  of  Miquelon,  glow- 
mg  with  the  mornmg  sunshine.  -^  v, 

"  Down  with  your  helm,  hard  down  !  "  cried  Captain  Welsh  ;  and  the 
little  schooner  shot  up  into  the  wind,  with  a  foam-whitened  reef  close 
alongside,  and  tell  off  on  the  other  tack.  The  wind  now  shifted  several 
points,  and  the  fog  reluctantly  "  scoffed  "  away,  giving  us  a  clear  passage 
with  a  strong  northeast  breeze,  which  enabled  us  to  work  up  the  channel, 
past  the  grand  rock  called  Colombier,  which  lies  off  the  northern  end  of 
St.  Pierre.  On  the  opposite  side,  on  Miquelon,  is  a  remarkable  natural 
arch  bathed  by  the  sea,  which  merits  more  reputation  than  it  enjoys. 

On  passing  Columbier  we  discovered  a  scene  of  maritime  activity 
scarcely  equaled  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  The  transition  was  some- 
what sudden,  because  St.  Pierre  is  a  sterile  rock,  three  to  four  miles  long 
and  six  hundred  feet  high,  with  ragged  outline,  and  offering  scarce  a  sign 
of  life  on  its  sea-side,  which  bristles  with  picturesque  but  inhospitable 
crags.  But  the  port  and  roads  present  altogether  a  different  appearance, 
and,  in  fact,  a  ar^imation  scarce  equaled  by  any  other  seaport  in  the 
world.  We  gained  a  hint  of  what  we  were  to  see  when  a  pilot  lugger 
darted  around  Colombier  and  glided  close  to  us,  showing  a  crew  in 
blouses  and  tufted  French  sea-caps.  She  was  exactly  like  the  pilot  lug- 
gers of  Bordeaux,  and  nowhere  else  in  America  is  such  a  craft  to  be 
found.  And  yet  when  we  at  last  opened  the  .  ds  of  St.  Pierre,  we  were 
completely  surprised  by  the  scene  which  la^  '.  efore  us.  I  had  but  to 
close  my  eyes  and  open  them,  and  I  seemed  to  be  once  more  in  Europe, 
entering  some  busy  port  on  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  illusion 
was  complete.  On  our  right  towered  some  tremendous  cliffs,  and  a  pict- 
uresque columnar  beacon  arose  in  the  foreground.  On  the  opposite  side 
lay  a  group  of  rocky  islets,  crested  by  forts  bristling  with  useless  cannon, 
and  succeeded  by  the  fishmg  village  of  Isle  aux  Chiens,  in  the  center  of 
which  stood  a  great  church  and  the  customary  cror       At  the  lower  end 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


93 


of  the  roads  toward  which  we  were  heading,  the  roofs  of  St.  Pierre  clam- 
bered in  a  dense  cluster  up  the  steep  hill-side,  smitten  by  the  splendor  of 
the  sun's  departing  glory.  Across  the  water  stole  the  sweet  music  of  the 
cathedral  bell  calling  to  vespers.  But  still  more  surprising  was  the  activity 
and  bustle  apparent  all  over  the  port.  Only  at  the  wharves  of  Liverpool 
or  New  York  can  crowds  of  shipping  be  seen  gathered  in  such  dense 
masses  of  masts  interlocked  by  ropes  and  yards.  Although  it  was  Sunday 
evening,  this  hardly  seemed  to  make  the  slightest  difference  at  St.  Pierre ; 


A   Street  in  St.  Pierre. 


ships  were  loading  and  unloading,  and  the  musical  singing  of  sailors  at 
their  work  could  be  heard  far  and  near,  softening  the  creaking  of  blocks. 
Schooners  and  luggers  were  creeping  lazily  into  port,  with  the  measured 
stroke  of  sweeps  as  in  olden  time,  and  women  could  ue  seen  fishing  or 
rowing,  their  babies  clustered  in  the  stern  of  the  boat  with  their  fists  in 
their  mouths,  just  as  in  Brittany.  The  only  sign  to  show  that  it  was  Sun- 
day evening  was  the  measured  toll  of  the  bells  from  the  churches,  and  the 
melody  of  accordions  or  flutes  from  boats  filled  with  laughing  girls  and 


94 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY, 


A  Fishing  Gang  at  St.  Pierre, 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  95 

their  lovers  gliding  away  into  the  shades  of  twilight,  which  gradually 
drew  its  veil  over  the  scene  as  our  cable  rattled  in  the  port  of  St.  Pierre. 

As  soon  as  our  sails  were  furled  and  the  schooner  made  snug  for  the 
night,  the  crew  demanded  leave  to  go  on  shore.  But  previous  experience 
with  them  had  warned  us  to  keep  a  strict  watch  on  their  movements ;  and 
much  to  their  irritation,  therefore,  we  gave  decisive  orders  that  the  boat 
should  not  be  lowered  into  ihe  water  that  night.  We  also  forbade  any 
one  coming  on  board.  The  latter  order  remained  in  force  during  our 
whole  stay  at  St.  Pierre ;  otherwise  we  should  have  been  overrun  with 
canaille,  who  would  have  demoralized  the  crew,  and  perhaps  have  run 
them  off  to  other  vessels. 

Ships  for  the  most  part  anchor  in  what  is  called  the  roads,  between  St. 
Pierre  and  Isle  aux  Chiens,  which  is  as  snug  a  harbor  as  could  be  desired 
in  most  winds.  But  in  northeast  storms  the  roads  are  greatly  exposed, 
and  then  the  inner  harbor  is  completely  packed  with  vessels.  This  little 
port  is  entirely  landlocked,  and  is  provided  with  docks  and  wharves. 
But  the  low  depth  of  water  excludes  vessels  drawing  more  than  thirteen 
feet. 

On  the  following  morning  the  officer  of  the  port  came  on  board  in 
French  uniform,  and,  after  extracting  a  fee,  gave  us  a  permit  to  land  or 
sail  free  from  further  charges.  We  then  ordered  our  boat  alongside  and 
went  on  shore.  A  nearer  approach  to  the  town,  instead  of  dispelling, 
rather  heightened,  the  impression  that  we  must  be  in  some  seaport  of  the 
old  world,  which  had  been  drifted  across  the  Atlantic,  away  from  its 
moorings,  and  planted  here. 

St.  Pierre  and  its  adjacent  islands  of  Miquelon,  or  Langlade,  and  Isle 
aux  Chiens,  form  the  last  bit  of  territory  in  North  America  on  which 
France  has  retained  her  grasp.  Tradition  states  that  these  islands  were 
known  early  in  the  thirteenth  century  to  the  Basques,  who  frequented  the 
Newfoundland  Banks,  engaged,  it  is  said,  at  that  early  period  in  pursuit  of 
cod-ftsh.  We  do  not  see  how  such  a  tradition  could  have  arisen  unless 
founded  on  fact;  and  yet  historians  do  not  seem  to  have  given  it  much 
attention.  It  was  not  until  1604  that  a  fishing  settlement  was  begun  at  St. 
Pierre.  In  171 3  the  colony  numbered  three  thousand  souls,  and  had  be- 
come a  very  important  fishing  port.  In  that  very  year  St.  Pierre  was 
ceded  to  Great  Britain,  together  with  Newfoundland,  the  French  being 
merely  allowed  permission  to  dry  their  fish  on  the  adjacent  shores.  But 
when  the  victory  of  Wolfe  resulted  in  the  loss  of  Canada  to  France,  she 
was  once  more  awarded  this  Httle  group  of  isles  lying  off  Fortune  Bay,  to 
serve  as  a  depot  for  her  fishermen.     The  French  now  gave  themselves  in 


96 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


Government  Houses  and  Town  Pumps  at  St.  Pierre. 

earnest  to  developing  the  cod-fisheries,  determined,  apparently,  that  what 
they  had  lost  in  land  should  be  made  up  by  the  sea.  In  twelve  years  the 
average  exportation  of  fish  amounted  to  six  thousand  quintals,  giving  em- 
ployment to  over  two  hundred  smacks,  sailed  by  eight  thousand  seamen. 
The  English  recaptured  the  isles  in  1778,  destroyed  all  the  stages  and  store- 
houses, and  forced  the  inhabitants  to  go  into  exile.  The  peace  of  Ver- 
sailles restored  St.  Pierre  to  France  in  1783,  and  the  fugitives  returned  to 
the  island  at  the  royal  expense.  The  fisheries  now  became  more  prosper- 
ous than  ever,  when  the  war  of  1793  once  more  brought  the  English  fleets 


THE  CRUISE   OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  97 

to  St.  Pierre.  Again  the  inhabitants  were  forced  to  fly.  By  the  peace  of 
Amiens,  in  1802,  France  regained  control  of  this  singularly  evanescent 
possession,  and  lost  it  the  following  year,  when  the  town  was  destroyed. 
In  1 8 16  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon  were  finally  re-ceded  to  France,  in  whose 
power  they  have  ever  since  remained. 

Moved  by  a  wise  policy,  the  government  aided  the  unfortunate  mer- 
chants and  fishermen,  and  offered  a  subsidy  on  the  vessels  employed  in  the 
fisheries.  The  results  have  amply  justified  the  outlay.  St.  Pierre  is  now 
in  all  probability  the  most  important  fishing  port  in  the  world.  The  pop- 
ulation, it  is  true,  is  comparatively  insignificant,  numbering  5,440  for 
the  three  islands,  of  which  4,804  are  resident  at  the  port  of  St.  Pierre. 
But  of  these,  only  783  are  foreigners,  and  all  are  more  or  less  de- 
pendent on  the  fisheries,  while  the  number  of  sailors  sometimes  con- 
gregated at  St.  Pierre  raises  the  population  for  the  time  to  over  ten 
thousand.  But  it  is  in  the  shipping  that  we  learn  of  the  importance  of 
St.  Pierre.  In  1881  the  number  of  entries  at  the  port  reached  2,615,  while 
the  clearances  were  2,590,  representing  a  total  of  254,190  tons.  Even  tak- 
ing into  consideration  the  fact  that  many  of  these  vessels  entered  more 
than  once,  yet  it  indicates  great  bustle  and  activity  for  so  small  a  place, 
more  especially  as  the  season  lasts  only  for  six  months. 

There  is  another  feature  attending  this  movement  in  shipping  which  it 
would  also  be  difficult  to  parallel  in  any  other  important  port  at  the  pres- 
ent time.  There  is  a  small  tug  owned  at  St.  Pierre ;  two  steamers  also 
touch  there  bi-monthly  from  Halifax  and  St.  Johns.  But,  with  these  ex- 
ceptions, it  is  exceedingly  rare  to  see  anything  but  sailing-ships  at  St. 
Pierre.  The  appearance  of  the  port  conveys  almost  the  illusion  that  one 
has  returned  to  the  age  before  steam,  while  the  wholly  foreign  and  old- 
time  aspect  is  strengthened  by  the  curious  and  picturesque  yawls,  luggers, 
top-sail  schooners  and  full-rigged  brigs  which  swarm  in  the  hai  bor.  The 
tricolor  and  gay  burgees  are  also  seen  on  all  sides,  giving  color  to  the 
scene.  This  is  indeed  a  place  for  the  marine  artist  to  visit.  By  far  tiie 
greater  part  of  these  vessels  are  French.  Many  of  them  are  employed,  of 
course,  in  catching  the  fish.  But  the  remarkable  fact  remains  that  the 
greater  part  of  the  fishermen  come  from  Normandy  and  the  south  of 
France  in  spring,  and  return  thither  for  the  winter.  The  values  repre- 
sented by  the  exports  of  St.  Pierre  in  1882  reached  the  large  figure  of 
20,88^,624  francs.  The  total  commerce  was  nearly  40,000,000  francs 
($8,000,000).  These  data  relate  chiefly  to  cod-fish  and  the  salt  imported 
for  preserving  it.  iVU  the  salt  used  by  the  French  fish-stations  elsewhere 
on  the  coast  of  Newfoundland  is  first  brought  to  St.  Pierre,  and  thence 
7 


98 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


reshipped.     Ample,  massive  quays  of  masonry  have  been  constructed,  and 
everything  about  the  harbor  indicates  that  paternal  policy  which  in  France 

supervises  the  commercial  inter- 
ests of  the  country. 

Perceiving  that  we  could 
best  see  the  various  aspects 
of  life  at  St.  Pierre  by  spend- 
ing a  few  days  on  shore,  we  de- 
cided to  take  rooms  at  the  Pen- 
sion Hacala.  As  only  one  room 
could  be  obtained  there,  one  of 
our  party  lodged  at  the  Hotel 
Joinville.  These  establishments 
are  exactly  the  counterparts  of 
such  houses  in  France.  The  for- 
mer furnished  an  excellent  table 

dhdte  with 
wines; the 
latter  af- 
forded 
meals  on 
reasona- 
ble terms 
a  la  carte. 
The  beds 
were  pre- 
cisely the 
beds  of 
Havre  or 
Bordeaux, 
witli  red 
canopies 
and  dense 
coverlets 
of  down. 
We  were 
lighted  to 
bed  with 
the  brass 
candlestick  familiar  to  all  who  have  been  in  France.     Always  during  the 


Street  Comer. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


99 


day  the  cafe  of  the  hotel  was  noisy  with  the  talk  of  ruddy  Gascons  or 
pale  blue-eyed  Normans,  playing  checkers  and  quaffing  absinthe,  cognac, 
or  caf^  noir,  or  chaffing  with  Jeanne,  the  piquant  waiter-girl.  Every  type 
of  the  French  race  was  to  be  seen  in  this  thriving  little  town. 

The  cafes  and  cabarets  of  high  and  low  degree  are  found  at  every 
turn.  On 
the  Cathe- 
dral square 
is  the  Casi- 
no, which 
includes  a 
theater  for 
the  private 
theatricals 
acted  and  at- 
tended by 
the  elite  of 
St.  Pierre. 
Owing  to 
the  large 
number  of 
sailors  some- 
times in 
port,   which 

occasionally  exceeds  that  of  the 
entire  resident  population  and 
garrison,  unusual  precautions  are 
taken  to  insure  quiet  and  secu- 
rity. At  ten  o'clock  at  night  the 
roll  of  a  drum  orders  all  the 
cafes  and  public  houses  to  be 
closed,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Casino  and  the  Hotel  Jcinville, 
which  may  be  kept  open  until 
eleven.  This  rule  is  enforced  with  imdeviating  strictress,  and  helps  to 
convey  an  impression  of  military  discipline,  which  at  once  distinguishes 
the  place  from  any  other  town  in  America,  and  transports  the  imagination 
back  to  Europe.  A  small  garrison  occupies  barracks  at  the  terminus  of 
the  principal  street. 

This  little  colony  of  scarce  five  thousand  souls  has  all  the  machinery  of 


A  St.  Pierre  Fishing  Boat. 


i     ,        "        •      •    •  . •/    •       0     < 


•  ,  .    . . 

•     >  •      •  • 

*  *       1 1    e  0  i>  - 


lOO  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

a  large  government,  and  seems  as  if  it  were  made  to  put  under  a  glass 
case,  as  a  complete  and  portable  epitome  ot  civil  and  military  organiza- 
tion. With  the  exception  of  the  governor,  who  is  appointed  by  the  home 
government,  the  colony  of  St.  Pierre  is  left  to  take  care  of  itself.  The 
governor,  who  is  the  Count  of  St.  Phalle,  occupies  a  commodious  and 
picturesque  residence  facing  a  terrace,  and  approached  from  the  place  by 
a  double  stair-way,  flanked  by  the  lodges  of  the  porter  and  the  guard. 
The  Count  is  assisted  by  an  elective  council.  The  judiciary  is  elaborately 
arranged  and  conveniently  lodged  m  an  elegant  stone  court-house.  It  in- 
cludes a  chief-justice  and  all  the  various  grades  common  in  French  admin- 
istration of  justice.  There  is  also  an  insular  department  of  marine  affairs, 
a  marine  court,  departments  of  war  and  finance  with  separate  buildings,  a 
board  of  health,  a  department  of  religion  and  one  of  public  instruction,  a 
chamber  of  commerce,  besides,  of  course,  a  careful  system  of  pilotage,  a 
bureau  of  charities,  a  superintendent  of  roads,  and  the  like.  The  fact  is, 
that  the  system  of  government  is  so  complete,  while  the  population  i?  so 
small,  that  every  prominent  citizen  has  an  office,  and  some  actually  serve 
in  several  official  capacities.  This  is,  indeed,  the  paradise  of  office-seek- 
ers. Furthermore,  not  to  be  behind  the  mother  country,  this  tight  little 
isle  actually  boasts  of  owning  as  citizens  not  less  than  eight  chevaliers  of 
the  Legion  of  Honor. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  we  found  out  that  St.  Pierre  may  be  consid 
ered  famous  for  something  besides  its  fisheries,  that  is,  its  fog.  I  am  in- 
clined to  think  that  this  is  the  central  depot  where  this  article  is  stored  for 
the  rest  of  the  world.  We  remained  at  St.  Pierre  eight  days,  and  during 
seven  days  a  fog  as  opaque  as  the  walls  of  Babylon  enveloped  the  harbor 
and  the  hills.  At  rare  intervals  it  would  roll  off  the  hills  and  give  a  view 
ot  the  town  ;  but  for  seven  unbroken  days  the  lighthouse  and  the  harbor 
were  concealed,  and  it  required  great  care  to  row  about  the  port  and  dis- 
cover one's  own  ship.  For  seven  long  days  the  steam  fog-horn  never 
ceased  blowing  ks  shrill  warning  once  a  minute.  While  that  horn  blew 
we  knew,  whatever  the  time  of  day  or  night,  that  St.  Pierre  was  an  iso- 
lated islet  shut  out  from  approach,  and  the  sensation  produced  by  the 
thought  was  peculiar,  and  different  from  anything  I  had  previously  expe- 
rienced. The  town,  strange  to  say,  seemed  to  be  quite  free  from  fog  dur- 
ing all  this  interval.  In  thick  weather  the  approach  to  the  islands  is  haz- 
ardous, and  three  vessels  went  ashore  during  that  week ;  one  of  them,  a 
large  English  bark,  proved  a  total  wreck.  Many  is  the  noble  ship  that 
has  gone  to  pieces  on  these  inhospitable  reefs.  But  during  all  this  time 
we  found  no  lack  of  entertainment.     There  was  a  zest,  a  piquancy,  to 


THR  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  loi 

every  scene  and  object  about  us,  which  gave  the  place  a  human  interest 
I  have  rarely  enjoyed  to  such  a  degree  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  The 
natural  vivacity  of  the  French  seems  to  have  lost  nothing  by  being  trans- 
planted to  these  bleak  isles.  The  superstition  and  the  intense  worldliness 
of  the  Latin,  tempered  by  streaks  of  religion,  were  evident,  one  might  Ut- 
erally  say,  at  every  corner;  for  images  of  the  Virgin,  or  of  saints,  more  or 
less  quaint,  are  common  on  the  street  corners,  sometimes  protected  by  a 
roof  and  lit  by  a  dip-light,  or  candle.  Indeed,  among  the  first  objects  to 
confront  the  eye  as  one  enters  the  port  are  an  immense  crucifix  crowning 
the  hill  on  which  the  town  is  built,  and  an  image  of  the  Virgin  in  a  nat- 
ural niche  in  the  cliff  overlooking  the  port,  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
water.  Pretty  maidens,  reminding  one  of  Languedoc,  trip  to  the  street- 
fountain  with  their  water-jars,  and  cross  themselves  one  moment  as  they 
pass  the  image  of  a  saint,  and  the  next  instant  exchange  merry  glances 
with  a  passing  lover.  Perhaps  that  interested  person  is  clad  like  a  peas- 
ant in  the  south  of  France.  Every  other  man  one  meets  in  the  streets 
wears  the  French  blouse,  heavy  sabots,  and  a  blue  beretta.  The  latter  is 
a  felt  cap  peculiar  to  the  peasants  of  Beam.  Perhaps,  too,  this  blouse- 
wearing  lout  is  driving  a  cart  drawn  by  oxen  yoked  with  the  immense 
carved  and  tasseled  yoke  employed  in  the  south  of  Europe.  When  you 
see  this  creaking  wain  laden  with  barrels  of  wine  approaching,  drawn  in 
this  wise  and  guided  by  the  aforesaid  slouching  figure  past  the  image  of  a 
saint,  you  say  involuntarily  to  yourself :  "  Is  there  not  some  mistake  about 
this?  I  thought  I  was  in  America,  but  surely  I  must  be  in  Biscay."  The 
Gallic  love  of  dogs  is  also  prominent  at  St.  Pierre.  The  number  of  dogs 
actually  licensed  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  population.  They  appear 
at  every  corner,  and  even  the  peddler's  cart  is  drawn  by  dogs.  Many  of 
them  are  of  the  Newfoundland  breed — large,  handsome,  and  dignified,  as 
who  should  say,  "  Before  the  French  came  we  were  lords  of  this  island." 
A  fight  of  Newfoundland  dogs  is  of  daily  occurrence  on  the  quay,  and  is 
characterized  by  a  massiveness  truly  colossal.  I  saw  nine  of  these  noble 
fellows  engaged  one  day  in  a  general  battle.  A  crowd  collected  at  once ; 
but  no  one  seemed  inclined  to  interfere,  for  the  very  good  reason  that 
there  is  scarcely  a  man  who  does  not  confess  to  himself  a  certain  zest  in 
watching  a  dog-fight,  a  feeling  society  sometimes  obliges  us  to  conceal. 

One  of  the  most  common  street  sights  of  St.  Pierre  is  the  town-crier. 
Does  a  merchant  receive  a  fresh  invoice  of  goods,  he  advertises  them  by 
this  means.  Is  there  to  be  a  f^te,  or  a  rifle-match,  the  place  and  date  are 
proclaimed  by  the  same  personage.  He  wears  a  uniform,  and  calls  atten- 
tion to  his  proclamation  by  a  preliminary,  soul-stirring  fanfare  of  a  bugle. 


I02 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


As  he  marches  from  street  to  street  he  is  followed  by  a  crowd  of  boys  fil- 
ing behind  him,  and  keeping  step  like  soldiers,  while  they  sing  "  Enfants 
de  la  Patrie !  "  or  the  Marseillaise.  When  he  reaches  the  bronze  fountain 
in  the  great  square  facing  the  harbor,  the  interest  aroused  by  the  ap- 
proaching bugle  reaches  its  climax ;  every  one  stops  in  his  work,  and  all 
gather  in  a  crowd  to  learn  the  news.  This  is  indeed  a  livel>  spot,  where 
merchants  with  wise  heads  discuss  trade ;   where  the  idlers  about  town 


The  Cathedral. 

stroll  with  their  dogs ;  where  the  ships  unload  their  cargoes ;  and  where 
the  ladies  promenade  at  evening.  One  of  the  most  characteristic  features 
of  St.  Pierre  well  illustrates  the  French  love  for  the  beautiful.  There  is 
scarcely  a  tree  on  the  island,  and  but  little  grass,  the  vegetation  being 
confined  to  moss  on  the  hills,  and  minute  vegetable  gardens  in  the  city. 
But  as  one  walks  through  the  little  town  he  hardly  feels  the  barrenness  of 
nature,  for  every  window  glows  with  the  splendor  of  house  plants  in  full 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


103 


bloom,  generally  geraniums  of  vivid  hues.  It  matters  not  how  humble  the 
dwelling,  its  windows  are  radiant  with  scarlet,  and  orange,  and  emerald. 

Society  at  St.  Pierre  is  by  no  means  dull ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  emi- 
nently French.  One  of  the  wealthiest  citizens  is  an  aged  widow,  who  in 
her  own  right  carries  on  fishing,  builds  ships,  and  conducts  the  largest 
trading-house  on  the  island.  One  finds  the  same  restraint  regarding  the 
women  obtaining  here  which  is  so  common  in  all  Latin  countries.  A  lady 
must  not  walk  abroad  without  a  companion.  She  would  be  liable  to  in- 
sult, or  suspicion  at  least,  if  she  were  to  do  so.  The  English  ladies,  of 
course,  do  as  they  please  about  this  as  in  other  matters,  while  the  French 
shrug  their  shoulders  and  spread  out  the  palms  of  their  hands  with  a 
grimace,  as  if  to  say,  "  What  more  could  you  expect  from  them,  for  they 
are  English  ?  Peste !  "  At  the  same  time  there  is  a  license  in  conversation 
permitted,  which  would  be  considered  singular  in  English  or  American 
society.  Considering  that  it  is  a  French  sea-port  town,  St.  Pierre  seems, 
however,  to  be  unusually  correct  in  its  morals. 

These  peculiar  ideas  regarding  the  conduct  of  women  were  strikingly 
illustrated  by  a  trifling  incident  at  the  Hotel  Joinville.  The  maid  of  the 
inn  was  a  charming  young  girl,  who  attracted  much  attention  and  flattery 
by  her  piquant  manner.  It  was  considered  almost  a  matter  of  course  that 
the  men  who  frequented  the  cafe  would  chaff  her  with  questionable  jokes, 
and  put  their  arms  around  her  waist.  But  when  the  landlady  heard  that 
my  companion  was  taking  a  sketch  of  Aer,  she  hustled  the  girl  out  of  the 
room  in  high  dudgeon. 

"  Oh,  but,  madame,  why  not  let  me  finish  the  sketch,  now  it  is  begun?" 

"  No,  never,  monsieur.  What  would  become  of  her  if  it  were  known 
that  a  gentleman  had  taken  her  likeness  awa)'-  with  him  to  New  York? 
It  would  never  do  ;  je  vous  assure  qu'il  est  impossible  !  " 

The  people  are  mostly  devoted  to  business,  which  they  follow  with 
that  extreme  thrift  peculiar  to  the  French.  But  there  is  much  intelligence 
among  them.  The  education  of  the  girls  is  quite  satisfactorily  promoted 
by  a  nun's  school,  which  has  considerable  repute  in  the  maritime  prov- 
inces. I  was  surprised  to  find  it  resorted  to  by  English  girls  from  Nova 
Scotia.  Until  recently,  the  French  have  shown  much  jealousy  regarding 
the  intrusion  of  foreigners  into  the  business  of  St.  Pierre ;  but  this  preju- 
dice is  less  strong  than  it  was.  There  is,  however,  little  social  intercourse 
between  the  French  residents  and  the  English,  who  now  form  a  colony 
of  several  hundred,  with  a  chapel  of  their  own.  They  preserve  all  their 
national  traits  with  emphasis.  With  true  British  fervor  they  engage  in 
athletic  sports,  such  as  rowing  and  swimming — in  which  the  French  take 


I04 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


not  the  slightest  interest — and  have  festivals,  picnics,  balls,  and  a  rink  by 
themselves.  Many  of  the  English  at  St.  Pierre  are  connected  with  the 
management  of  this,  and  of  the  French  Atlantic  cable  which  lands  at  that 
island.  It  is  a  little  singular  that,  although  the  cable  is  owned  chiefly  by 
French  capitalists,  it  is  operated  entirely  bv  English  electricians.  The 
director  at  St.  Pierre  is  Mr.  Walter  Betts,  a  man  of  fine  scientific  attain- 
ments. We  were  indebted  to  him  and  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  tele- 
graph commission  for  many  kind  courtesies.     Our  party  was  also  very 


Fishing  for  Squid. 


kindly  entertained  by  another  prominent  English  citizen,  Mr.  Trecker,  the 
United  States  consular  agent.  Never  did  we  find  the  time  hanging 
heavily  on  our  hands.  There  is  a  charm  in  the  isolation  of  a  small  island 
which  is  most  delightful,  at  least  for  a  while.  One  of  the  most  interesting 
spots  at  St.  Pierre  is  the  place  on  the  quay,  already  alluded  to,  and  the 
center  of  which  is  adorned  by  a  jet  d'eau  issuing  from  a  bronze  fountain. 
The  handsomest  fountain  in  the  city  is.  however,  the  square  bronze  struct- 
ure in  front  of  the  cathedral.     This  structure,  by  the  way,  although  one  of 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  105 

the  few  buildings  of  St.  Pierre  constructed  of  wood,  is  possessed  of  some 
architectural  merit. 

The  establishments  for  the  drying  and  preservation  of  fish,  which  are 
of  such  importance  here,  are  fortunately  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and 
in  no  wise  obtrusive.  It  can  not  be  by  any  possibility  affirmed  that  there 
is  anything  aesthetic  about  the  drying  of  fish  ;  but  as  offering  a  study  of 
human  nature,  it  is  not  without  its  advantages. 

One  of  the  sights  of  St.  Pierre  is  the  fishing  for  squid.  These  fish,  it 
may  not  be  generally  known,  belong  to  the  species  called  the  cuttle-fish,, 
or  octopus,  although,  of  course,  »-y  much  smaller.  During  the  latter 
part  of  the  season,  the  cod-fish  caii  be  caught  only  with  squid.  He  is  an 
aristocratic  fish,  is  the  cod  ;  for  he  has  decided  tastes  of  his  own,  and  lives 
up  to  them.  He  knows  his  ultimate  destiny,  but  proposes  that  it  shall  be 
accomplished  in  his  own  way.  He  is  resigned  to  being  caught ;  but  it 
must  be  with  squid  at  one  time,  and  with  hake  at  another.  Now,  there  is 
a  fish  with  a  character  to  him  !  For  the  convenience  of  the  fish  trade,  the 
squid  very  accommodatingly  consent  to  make  the  waters  of  St.  Pierre  their 
resort,  and  the  number  caught  in  the  harbor  during  the  season  is  enor- 
mous. They  are  all  taken  by  hand,  and  they  collect  in  such  dense  masses 
that  if  one  but  drop  a  jig  surrounded  with  sharp  points,  it  is  sure  to  catch 
something,  as  long  as  there  are  any  squid  there.  Men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren collect  in  boats  wherever  a  school  of  squid  has  settled.  The  scene 
is  of  the  liveliest.  Sometimes  fifty  boats,  large  and  small,  may  be  seen  in 
a  solid  cluster,  with  several  hundred  persons  flinging  the  squid  into  the 
boats  as  fast  as  they  can  lower  the  jig-  and  vociferating  at  the  top  of  their 
lungs.  This  will  continue  for  several  hours,  till  a  moment  comes  when 
every  one  becomes  aware  that  the  squid  are  satisfied  with  their  share  of 
the  sport,  and  have  taken  French  leave.  One  by  one  the  boats  detach 
themselves  from  the  group,  and  wander  aimlessly  about  the  harbor, 
searching  for  the  lost  squid.  Finally,  a  solitary  boat  is  discovered  attached 
by  a  line  to  a  vessel  and  slyly  drawing  up  squid.  Immediately  the  word 
goes  around  the  harbor,  and  from  all  quarters  the  boats  are  seen  shooting 
with  the  utmost  earnestness  toward  this  quarter,  and  in  a  moment,  as  it 
were,  a  crowd  has  again  collected.  The  squid  bring  half  a  cent  apiece, 
and  form  one  of  the  most  important  sources  of  revenue  at  St.  Pierre. 

The  Sunday  before  we  sailed  a  great  annual  shooting-match  was  held 
on  the  hills  above  the  town.  Owing  to  the  density  of  the  fog,  the  sport 
was  somewhat  impaired ;  but  the  occasion  brought  together  a  good 
crowd  after  the  morning  mass.  The  followirg  day  the  fog  cleared  away, 
and  we  seized  the  opportunity  to  slip  out  of  the  port  before  it  should  close 


To6 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


Curing  fish  at  St.  Pierre. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


107 


in  thick  again.  Our  crew  were  getting  restless,  also,  and  needed  some 
occupation  to  keep  them  out  of  mischief.  Two  of  them  had  already  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  themselves  drunk  on  bad  wine,  and,  after  trying  their 
best  to  stab  the  by-standers,  were  compelled  to  pass  the  night  in  the  guard- 
house. :      • 

But  before  taking  our  leave  of  St.  Pierre  we  were  treated  to  an  amus- 
ing incident.     There  was  staying  at  the  Pension  Hacala  a  Canadian  of  un- 


The   Town  Crier. 


limited  loquacity  and  assurance,  who  made  the  landlady  believe  that  while 
ostensibly  we  were  pleasure-seekers,  newspaper  men,  and  artists,  we  were 
really  Americans  of  leisure  and  money,  who  thought  no  more  of  five-dol- 
lar gold  pieces  than  a  Frenchman  does  of  a  sou. 


Io8  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

"  Now,  if  you  follow  my  advice,"  he  said,  "you'll  make  a  round  penny 
out  of  them,  and  you'll  see  they  won't  even  notice  it ! " 

The  advice  fell  into  willing  ears.  We  said  nothing,  but  waited  to  see 
the  result  when  the  time  for  setthng  arrived.  Madame  wrs  an  absurdly 
long  while  figuring  on  the  bill.  Besides  svi^elling  the  usual  items  far  in 
excess  of  the  customary  charges,  Madame  Hacala  actually  had  the  assur- 
ance to  charge  full  board  and  lodging  for  the  member  of  our  party  who 
had  lodged  at  the  Hotel  Joinville. 

"How's  this,  madame?  I  haven't  stayed  at  your  house;  I've  only 
dined  here  two  or  three  times.     What's  the  meaning  of  this  item  ?" 

"  It  is  true  you  did  not  stay  here ;  but  you  engaged  a  room,  and  you 
must  therefore  pay  for  it." 

"  But  I  did  not  occupy  the  room,  as  it  was  already  occupied.  I  only 
engaged  it  in  case  it  should  be  vacant  on  a  certain  day  ;  but  it  has  not 
been  vacated.  No ;  we  shall  not  pay  that  charge,  madame.  Permit  me 
to  say  it  is  an  outrage  and  a  swindle." 

"  Then  monsieur  does  not  intend  to  pay  his  hotel  bill  ?  "  she  said,  shrug- 
ging her  shoulders  and  making  a  sickly  grimace  in  reply. 

After  some  palaver  the  widow  was  forced  to  recede  from  some  of  her 
charges,  which  would  not  bear  scrutiny. 

The  sun  shone  out  brightly  over  the  crags  of  St.  Pierre  as  our  little 
schooner  drifted  out  to  sea  through  the  northern  entrance.  It  had  been 
blowing  a  gale  of  wind  for  two  or  three  days  and  we  encountered  a  high 
swell.  Captain  Welsh  had  been  very  reluctant  to  leave,  and  was  full  of 
forebodings  when  a  dark  night  closed  us  in  with  a  light  head  wind. 
With  his  usual  caution,  he  steered  for  a  good  offing ;  and  at  daybreak  we 
were  well  to  the  southward  of  our  course,  but  heading  for  Sydney  with  a 
heavy  wind. 


VI. 

AT  day-break  of  August  i8th  we  had  hoped  to  see  the  high  land  of 
Cape    Breton    Island,  but  were  greeted   instead   by  a   boisterous 
southwest   gale,   attended    with   fog,   which   turned   into   violent 
squalls  of  wind  and    rain  and  a  savage  sea,  which,  by  its  short,  steep 
waves,  showed  that  we  were  coming  under  the  lee  of  the  land.     When  the 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


109 


Struck  by  a  Squall. 

southwest  wind  concludes  to  swell  to  a  strong  gale  it  is  of  short  duration, 
either  backing  around  to  southeast  or  shifting  to  west-nor'west.  We  kept 
a  sharp  lookout  in  the  rapid  squalls,  and  at  noon  the  wind  shifted  to  north- 
west. At  once  the  murky  horizon  began  to  clear  away,  and  the  lookout 
at  the  mast-head  cried  "  Land  ho !  "  There,  indeed,  was  the  land,  twenty 
miles  away  ;  but  the  prospect  of  reaching  it  before  night  was  slim,  as  the 
wind  now  fairly  screeched,  raising  an  ugly,  cobbling  sea  which,  with  the 
strong  tide  and  current,  scarcely  allowed  the  little  Alice  May  to  hold  her 
own  under  the  short  canvas  to  which  she  was  stripped. 

But  toward  evening  the  wind  moderated,  and,  with  the  change  of  the 
tide,  we  stood  in  quite  near  to  the  land,  and  gazed  astonished  on  the  noble 
coast  lost  to  view  far  away  in  the  broading  north.  After  sunset  the  wind 
came  out  stronger  than  ever,  and,  as  Captain  Welsh  was  unfamiliar  with 
the  harbor  of  Sydney,  to  which  we  were  bound,  we  gave  up  all  hope  of 
getting  in  that  night,  greatly  to  our  disappointment,  as  the  time  allotted  to 


no  THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 

our  cruise  was  now  getting  short  and  every  day  was  valuable  While  we 
were  discussing  the  prospect  below  in  no  very  amiable  mood,  the  mate  put 
his  head  down  the  companion-way  and  shouted : 

"  There's  a  tug  alongside,  sir,  bound  in  !    Do  you  want  to  hail  her?  " 

We  cleared  the  stairs  at  a  bound,  and,  as  we  saw  the  tug  passing  us  at 
the  rate  of  twelve  knots,  did  not  stop  an  instant  to  deliberate,  but  hailed 
her  Vi^ith,  "  What  do  you  ask  to  take  us  in?  " 

"  Ten  dollars !  " 

'*  All  right ;  lay  alongside  and  take  a  line  aboard  !  " 

In  two  minutes  we  were  attached  to  the  tug,  our  canvas  was  lowered 
and  furled,  and  in  an  hour  we  dropped  anchor  in  a  snug  haven  amid  a 
cluster  of  ships'  lights  twinkling  in  the  water  around  us.  We  had  arrived 
.at  Sydney.  This  port  depends  entirely  for  its  importance  upon  its  coal 
mines.  The  island  of  Cape  Breton  is  completely  seamed  with  veins  of 
coal,  which  are  worked  at  various  places.  Louisburg  and  Sydney  are, 
however,  the  chief  mining  centers,  and  the  latter  has  a  large  export  trade. 
The  harbor  is  large  and  secure,  but  owing  to  the  character  of  the  weather, 
insurance  is  doubled  on  ships  going  there  between  the  first  of  October 
and  the  first  of  April,  Sydney  really  consists  of  North  and  South  Syd- 
ney, which  are  situated  five  miles  apart  on  the  same  bay.  The  former, 
although  the  larger  of  the  two  places,  has  little  to  attract.  But  South 
Sydney,  where  our  courteous  consul,  Mr.  Lever,  resides,  is  a  charming 
village,  with  green,  sloping  banks  gracefully  meeting  the  placid  waters  of 
a  beautiful  cove.  The  water  is  so  deep  near  the  land  that  the  largest  ves- 
sels can  moor  within  a  few  yards  of  the  shore.  This  is  a  magnificent  bay 
for  boating,  and  South  Sydney  can  be  safely  recommended  as  a  summer 
resort.  Two  large  French  ships  of  war  were  lying  there  at  the  time  of 
our  visit.  The  house  of  the  French  consul  comes  close  to  the  water ;  its 
ample  veranda,  overhanging  willows,  and  smooth-shaven  lawn  aided  to 
give  a  semi-tropical  air  to  the  town.  Both  here  and  at  North  Sydney 
churches  abound,  and  the  kirk  and  the  papacy  seem  to  be  diligent  in 
gathering  flocks  into  the  fold,  the  Catholics  outnumbering  the  Protestants. 
The  natural  limits  of  each  would  appear,  however,  to  have  been  reached 
for  the  present.  The  emigration  from  Cape  Breton  to  the  United  States 
keeps  pace  with  the  natural  growth  of  the  population,  which  is  very  mea- 
ger. It  does  not  exceed  seventy-five  thousand,  on  an  area  larger  than 
Massachusetts.  North  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  between  vSt.  Anne  and  Cape 
North,  is  an  immense  tract  covered  with  primeval  woods,  which  has  never 
been  fully  explored.  The  axe  has  not  touched  the  dense  forests,  nor  has 
the  rifle  of  the  settler  disturbed  the  bear,  the  deer,  and  the  caribou,  which 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  Ill 

still  roam  there  at  will.  Judging  from  the  character  of  the  coast,  which 
is  broken  and  sublime,  the  interior  must  be  rich  in  attractions  to  the  artist, 
the  sportsman,  and  the  adventurer.  There  is  little  enterprise  at  Cape 
Breton.     "  What  our  people  want,"  said  a  gentleman  to  me,  "  is  money." 

But  something  more  is  needed,  and  that  is  that  willingness  to  dare 
which  is  called  enterprise.  It  must  be  conceded  that  the  long  winters 
tend  to  check  immigration  and  to  foster  emigration,  while  the  yield  of  the 
mines  and  the  fields  and  the  large  exportation  of  beef  cattle  are  sufficient 
to  keep  the  people  comfortable,  at  least,  if  not  wealth)'.  It  is  rare  to  see 
any  signs  of  poverty  at  Cape  Breton.  The  result  is  to  make  them  gener- 
ally contented.  They  all  own  their  farms  and  homesteads,  and  every 
commodity  is  cheap.  Most  of  the  worthy  islanders  are  of  Scotch  descent, 
and  a  hale,  hearty,  buxom  race  they  are.  Those  who  come  thence  to  the 
United  States  should  be  welcomed,  for  thev  are  of  a  nature  to  add  real 
strength  to  the  race  now  building  up  in  this  country  out  of  the  various 
p  joples  flocking  to  our  shores. 

There  was  nothing  to  detain  us  long  at  Sydney,  while  the  famous  Bras 
d'Or  yet  remained  to  be  seen.  Louisburg  we  decided  not  to  visit,  because 
our  time  was  short  and  little  remains  of  the  former  town.  We  therefore 
took  a  fresh  stock  of  water  and  provisions  on  board,  and  the  second  morn- 
ing at  dawn  stood  out  to  sea.  It  was  a  superb  day,  one  of  those  which 
make  the  heart  light,  and  we  had  a  fair  wind  to  carry  us  to  the  Bras  d'Or, 
only  two  hours'  sail  from  Sydney. 

The  conformation  of  Cape  Breton  Island  is  peculiar.  It  is  divided 
into  two  nearly  equal  portions  by  an  arm  of  the  sea  some  sixty-five  miles 
in  length.  These  two  halves  are  united  at  the  western  end  by  a  neck  only 
a  mile  wide.  A  canal  was  cut  through  this  some  years  ago,  allowing  the 
passage  of  ships  of  one  thousand  tons,  and  the  island  now  virtually  forms 
two  islands.  At  the  eastern  extremity  the  entrance  is  nearly  occupied  by 
Boulardrie  Island,  and  the  narrow  passages  on  two  sides  are  called  the 
Great  and  the  Little  Bras  d'Or  entrances.  The  latter  is  very  narrow  and 
tortuous,  and  hardly  accessible  except  to  boats.  But  the  former  is  nearly 
a  mile  wide  in  parts,  and  the  approach  is,  in  nautical  language,  clear,  or 
free  from  reefs.  On  emerging  from  this  strait,  one  comes  into  two  noble 
sheets  of  water,  called  the  Great  and  Little  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.  It  is  evi- 
dent at  a  glance  that  this  conformation  of  land  and  water  must  offer  a  fine 
opportunity  for  inland  cruising. 

Our  fair  wind  suddenly  shifted  into  our  front,  and  we  now  found  we 
should  have  a  dead  beat  under  press  of  sail  to  get  in  before  night.  The 
winds  around  these  highlands  are  very  puffy  and  capricious,  but  we  were 


112  THE  CRUISE  OF   TEE  ALICE  MAV. 

amply  repaid  by  the  beauty  of  the  frowning  clifTs  toward  which  we  were 
heading ;  the  colors  of  land,  water,  and  sky  were  the  most  harmonious 
and  beautiful  we  had  yet  seen  during  our  cruise.  The  light  showers  and 
magnificent  rolling  masses  of  cloud  added  grandeur  to  the  cliff,  over  one 
thousand  feet  high,  trending  north  and  south,  and  suffused  with  the  most 
exquisite  gray  and  purple  and  blue  and  pale  gieen. 

In  the  afternoon,  as  we  were  drawing  near  to  St.  Anne's  F  xy,  the  wind 
shifted  again  with  a  violent  squall,  carrying  away  our  stay-sail.  But  it 
was  in  our  favor,  and  the  little  craft  responded  to  the  blast  with  wild  glee, 
bounding  through  the  water  at  a  rate  which  soon  carried  us  past  Cape 
Dauphin's  cliffs  to  the  entrance  of  Bras  d'Or.  The  channel  widened  after 
we  entered,  but  the  wind  failed  when  we  had  proceeded  two  or  three 
miles,  and  we  anchored  under  a  magnificent  precipitous  mountain,  ten 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  It  is  called  Mount  St.  Anne,  or  Kelly's 
Mountain,  and  forms  part  of  a  range  which  extends  along  the  coast  to 
Cape  North.  Farm-houses  were  to  be  seen  snugly  situated  on  velvety 
slopes,  and  the  crow  of  chanticleer  floated  over  the  water  like  a  welcome 
to  this  favored  region. 

The  following  morning  at  day-break  we  were  aroused  by  the  familiar 
click  of  the  windlass,  orders  having  been  given  to  start  for  Baddeck 
as  soon  as  it  should  become  sufficiently  clear  to  sail  without  running 
ashore.  But  the  wind  was  ahead,  and  we  had  ten  miles  to  beat  with  short 
tacks  against  a  strong  current.  Only  one  shoal  lay  in  the  channel,  and 
that  was  buoyed.  We  therefore  gave  ourselves,  without  thought,  to 
preparation  for  breakfast,  and  were  discussing  the  probabilities  of  dining 
at  Baddeck,  when  a  harsh  grating  sound  was  heard  under  the  keel,  as  the 
schooner  lifted  her  bow  and  brought  up  all  standing  with  an  ominous 
shock. 

"  Isn't  this  a  pretty  way  to  end  our  cruise — in  broad  daylight,  too ! " 
we  all  exclaimed  in  chorus,  as  we  tumbled  on  deck.  We  were  hard  and 
fast  on  a  rocky  shoal,  and  the  prospect  was  good  that  we  should  stay 
there,  or  at  least  be  forced  to  heave  out  our  ballast.  The  wind  was  light, 
and  we  could  get  little  help  or  comfort  from  that  quarter.  The  vessel 
had  missed  stays  when  near  the  shoal,  and  the  current  had  carried  her 
right  upon  it.  There  was  a  good  depth  under  the  stern,  fortunately,  and 
once  more  we  carried  the  anchor  out  in  the  boat  and  dropped  it  in  deep 
water ;  but  no  one  on  board  had  any  idea  that  it  would  prove  of  any  avail, 
the  vessel  seemed  to  be  so  firmly  fixed  on  the  rocks.  We  all  bowsed  on 
the  cable  with  a  will,  but  were  not  surprised  to  find  that  our  efforts  made 
no  impression.     We  had  about  concluded  to  start  the  ballast,  and  a  gen- 


THE  CRUISE   or   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


113 


eral  feeling  of  depression  and  disgust  prevailed,  altogether  too  deep  for 
tears,  when,  to  our  surprise,  the  ship  made  a  sudden  movement,  then 
yielded  yet  further  to  the  gentle  coaxing  of  the  hawser,  and  finally  slid 
easily  into  deep  water  and  floated.  We  could  only  account  for  her  get- 
ting off  on  the  presumption  that  she  had  lodged  on  a  ledge  which  had  split 
away  by  the  pressure  of  the  keel.     But  apprehensions  and  surmises  now 


The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes,   Cape  Breton  Island. 


gave  place  to  rejoicing.  Soon  after,  a  staving  easterly  wind  added  to 
our  good  luck,  and  drove  us  up  the  strait  as  if  we  were  bound  to  the  gold 
mines  instead  of  the  Bras  d'Or.  The  approach  to  the  first,  or  smaller,  of 
the  two  lakes  is  exceedingly  beautiful ;  the  hills,  receding  on  either  hand 
from  the  shore,  are  crowned  with  tuft-like  forests,  nodding  over  the  lovely 
slopes.  The  scenery  here  is  much  like  that  of  the  Hudson.  As  we  opened 
the  lake,  palisade-like  plaster  cliffs  began  to  appear,  greatly  adding  to 
8 


114  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

the  effectiveness  of  the  prospect.  In  some  places  they  were  shaped  like 
the  columnar  bastions  of  the  Giant's  Causeway ;  or,  anon,  their  grayish- 
white  rocks,  spotted  with  lead-colored  tints  and  overgrown  with  vines  or 
dwarf  cedars,  bore  a  marvelous  resemblance  to  some  of  the  old  castles  of 
Europe. 

These  plaster  cliffs  form  one  of  the  prominent  features  of  the  scenery 
in  many  parts  of  Cape  Breton,  not  only  by  the  water-side,  but  inland  as 
well.  When  the  rock  is  broken,  it  has  a  beautiful  creamy  white  color ;  but 
the  weather  gradually  tones  this  down  into  mellow,  harmonious  grays. 
The  plaster  is  a  deposit  of  lime,  which  has  proved  a  considerable  source 
of  profit  to  the  island — more,  perhaps,  in  the  past  than  at  the  present — 
both  for  plastering  houses  and  for  enriching  the  soil. 

At  last  a  light-house  appeared,  perched  on  the  brow  of  a  lofty  cliff.  It 
seemed  strange  to  see  light-houses  in  a  small  lake,  conveying  the  impres- 
sion that  it  was  a  miniature  sea.  This  idea  was  emphasized  when  another 
small  light-house  was  discovered  at  the  end  of  a  wee  bit  of  an  islet  which 
helps  to  form  the  quaint  little  harbor  of  Baddeck ;  and  there,  too,  lay 
Baddeck  itself,  a  miniature  sea-port  in  a  miniature  sea !  The  effect  was 
almost  whimsical.  Here  is  a  capital  city,  compact  and  complete  as  cities 
abroad,  with  its  light-houses,  its  ship-yard,  its  wharves,  its  custom-house, 
its  bank,  its  court-house,  its  jail,  its  suburbs,  its  hotels,  its  old  mansions, 
and  what  not  besides,  and  yet  numbering  only  about  a  hundred  houses  and 
a  population  of  five  hundred! 

We  arrived  at  Baddeck,  the  capital  of  Cape  Breton,  about  three  P.  M., 
and  immediately  landed  to  get  the  letters  we  expected  to  find  there. 
From  the  day  we  left  Charlottetown  we  had  not  heard  fiom  home,  nor 
for  six  weeks  had  an  opportunity  been  offered  us  to  send  letters  that 
would  rqach  home  sooner  than  if  mailed  by  us  at  Cape  Breton,  so  meager 
are  postal  communications  in  some  of  the  places  we  had  visited,  while,  in 
several  cases,  the  monthly  boat  had  sailed  the  day  before  we  could  reach 
it.  It  was  Sunday  afternoon,  and,  of  course,  the  post-office  would  be 
closed.  But  we  determined  to  make  an  effort  to  get  a  sight  of  our  corre- 
spondence before  another  sun  should  set. 

The  post-office  was  in  the  residence  of  the  post-master,  a  picturesque 
cottage  half  concealed  in  shrubbery.  That  dignified  official  had  been  to 
church,  and  was  at  home  reading  the  weekly  newspaper  and  the  latest 
monthly  magazines  from  the  United  States.  He  received  us  politely,  but 
blandly  declined  to  desecrate  the  Sabbath  by  entering  the  office  and  giving 
us  our  letters,  which,  he  kindly  informed  us,  were  there  awaiting  us  and 
would  be  given  to  us  on  Monday.     But  he  was  willing  to  listen  to  reason. 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY.  115 

and  when  we  told  him  we  had  not  had  a  word  from  home  for  two  months, 
he  saw  the  point,  and  graciously  relented.  In  a  few  minutes  we  had  a  pile 
of  letters  in  our  hands,  and  hastened  to  the  hotel  to  read  them. 

The  situation  of  Baddeck  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  on  the  slope  of  a 
steep  hill  whose  summit  commands  a  superb  view  over  the  Bras  d'Or 
lakes.  One  of  the  most  interesting  houses  in  Baddeck  is  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Campbell|  who  represents  this  district  at  Ottawa.  A  fine  stone  wall, 
bearing  marks  of  age,  and  a  venerable  »"ow  of  poplars  give  a  certain  air  of 
decayed  gentility  to  the  place.  The  jail  is  a  low,  brown,  black-roofed 
stone  building  adjoining  the  post-office.  It  is  the  oldest  as  well  as  the 
most  interesting  structure  in  the  town.  It  stands  directly  on  the  street, 
without  any  inclosure,  but  the  windows  are  secured  by  iron  bars,  which 
give  a  grim  aspect  to  what  might  otherwise  be  taken  to  be  a  granary. 
No  prisoners  were  confined  in  the  jail  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  nor  was 
there  evidence  that  any  had  been  there  for  a  long  time.  But  the  jailer's 
family  occupied  it ;  and  it  was  not  unusual  to  see  two  pretty  faces  gossip- 
ing idly  behind  the  bars,  and  embroidering  the  while,  as  one  sometimes 
sees  gayly  tinted  flowers  clambering  over  the  crumbling  walls  of  an  old 
fortress. 

On  market  day  the  streets  of  Baddeck  are  lively  with  Highlanders 
coming  in  from  the  'country-side  to  barter  their  produce,  and  Gaelic  is 
heard  on  all  sides.  It  is  by  no  means  uncommon  to  find  some  among  them 
still  v.'ho  speak  only  Gaelic.  We  saw  a  lassie  at  the  school-house  door 
gayly  discoursing  with  a  grave  young  man,  possibly  one  of  the  trustees, 
and  her  flaxen  elf-locks,  bright  blue-gray  eyes,  rosy  cheeks,  tall,  shapely 
form,  and  elastic  step  were  for  all  the  world  so  thoroughly  Scotch  one 
might  have  sworn  she  was  Burns's  Highland  Mary. 

The  suburbs  of  Baddeck  extend  east  and  west  along  the  water-side. 
The  east  suburb,  if  we  may  so  term  it,  consists  of  a  most  beautiful  and  ro- 
mantic road,  somewhat  elevated  about  the  beach,  and  extending  to  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  cave  where  ships  load  coal  and  lime.  It  is  skirted  on 
the  water-side  by  birch  and  cedar,  gracefully  overhanging  the  bank.  At- 
tractive cottages  are  on  the  other  side  at  rare  intervals,  hidden  in  groves 
of  natural  growth  thinned  out.  A  church,  finely  situated  on  a  knoll  mid- 
way, gives  a  point  d'appui  for  the  eye,  and  accentuates  one  of  the  loveliest 
drives  in  British  America.  Along  the  entire  distance  one  gazes  upon  the 
grand  heights  of  Mount  St.  Anne  and  the  island-studded  waters  of  the 
Bras  d'Or.  Anywhere  near  New  York,  this  noble  natural  esplanade 
would  be  greedily  seized  by  land  speculators,  and  would  soon  be  lined 
with  elegant  country-seats.     For  a  combination  of  attractions,  including 


Ii6 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


views,  driving,  boat- 
ing, fishing,  hunt- 
ing, and  a  delightful 
air  during  the  sum- 
mer, Baddeck  is  un- 
doubtedly one  of 
the  finest  spots  in 
the  gulf  provinces, 
and  it  is  a  great 
matter  of  surprise  that  some  of  our  people  do  not  make  it  a  summer 
resort.  Land  and  provisions  are  at  present  exceedingly  cheap.  The 
difficulty  is,  in  going  to  any  new  place,  that  no  sooner  do  the  people 
imagine  there  is  to>  be  a  demand  for  their  property  than  they  ask  inflated 


A  WigvMtn  Cradle. 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


117 


prices,  which  tend  to  drive  away  the  new-comers,  who  might  eventually 
give  land  a  fixed  and  reasonable  value. 

The  other  suburb  of  Baddeck  is  on  a  low  point  adjoining  the  western 
end  of  Cape  Breton's  capital.  Doubtless  without  deliberate  intention,  this 
has  been  made  very  attractive  to  tourists.  The  houses  are  exceedingly 
picturesque,  and  give  the  impression  that  their  occupants  are  enjoying  a 
sort  of  perpetual  picnic.  To  be  more  precise,  we  will  say  that  we  found 
there  a  genuine  aboriginal  camp,  composed  of  bark  wigwams  and  inhabit- 
ed by  real  Indians,  who,  in  spite  of  the  tattered  vestments  which  a  neigh- 
boring civilization  has  forced  upon  them,  retain  a  certain  savage  aspect 


On  the  Road  to  Baddeck. 


that  is  not  without  interest  and  piquancy.  As  one  approaches  the  camp, 
through  a  grove  of  dwarf  cedars,  he  discovers  unmistakable  evidence 
of  Indian  life  in  the  groups  of  dogs  sleeping  on  the  turf  or  fighting  over  a 
bone.  Then  papooses,  more  or  less  nude,  are  seen  tumbling  on  the  grass 
in  rude  sport — black-eyed,  black-haired,  copper-colored,  and  unspeakably 
filthy  and  stupid.  There  is  no  mistake  in  the  symptoms.  We  are  on  the 
edge  of  an  Indian  settlement  pure  and  simple.  The  wigwams  are  con- 
structed wholly  of  birch  bark,  and  are  occupied,  summer  and  winter,  in 
preference  to  any  other  habitations.  We  found  the  inhabitants  of  this 
suburb   not  unwilling  to   receive  visitors  with   a   gruff,  surly  courtesy. 


Il8  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

Their  speech  is  pure  Algcnquin,  although  some  of  them  speak  broken  Eng- 
glish.  In  two  or  three  ot  the  wigwams  we  noticed  stoves — a  concession 
to  a  progressive  civilization  which  was  very  amusing,  especially  when  the 
pipe  could  be  seen  peering  above  the  pointed  roof  of  the  conical  bark  struct- 
ure. The  infant  papooses,  tightly  swathed  in  swaddling  bandages,  were 
suspended  in  leather  hammocks,  and  were  curious  and  nondescript  objects, 
little  dreaming  that  they  were  the  rightful  owners  of  Cape  Breton  Island, 
yet  were  destined  to  be  robbed  of  their  inheritance  by  the  law  of  the 
strongest.  It  is  a  fact  that  the  Indians  of  Cape  Breton  still  consider 
themselves  to  be  the  rightful  owners  of  the  island,  and,  while  living  on 
friendly  terms  with  the  whites  because  obliged  to  do  so,  bear  them  no  good 
will.  It  is  not  so  many  years  since  an  open  attempt  was  made  to  assert 
these  views,  when,  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  a  number  of  them  under- 
took to  break  into  a  house,  violently  declaiming  against  the  invasion  of 
their  rights.  At  present  no  one  is  allowed  to  sell  liquor  to  these  Indians, 
and  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  an  inoffensive  race,  devoted  to  a  life  of  in- 
dolence, with  intervals  given  to  fishing  and  the  making  of  tubs  and 
baskets.  Th  e  Indians  of  Cape  Breton  are  Micmacs,  and  number,  perhaps, 
two  thousand.  There  is  a  large  settlement  of  Ihem  at  Whycocomagh, 
where  they  live  in  neat  huts  on  a  reservation  of  two  thousand  acres. 
Near  the  western  end  of  the  Bras  d'Or  they  own  an  islet,  called  Indian 
Island,  on  which  there  is  a  large  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Once  a  year, 
on  the  third  of  August,  they  assemble  there  from  all  this  region,  put  up 
wigwams  for  the  occasion,  and  spend  a  week  in  reviving  Indian  games 
and  ceremonials.  Religious  services  are  also  performed  in  the  church, 
which  are  intended  to  sanctify  them  for  the  ensuing  twelvemonth.  Each 
individual  is  expected  to  give  the  priest  ten  cents  before  he  can  be  ab- 
solved. As  these  Indians  are  wretchedly  poor,  receiving  pay  in  kind  for 
what  they  produce,  it  is  said  that  many  find  it  difficult  to  contribute  even 
this  minute  offering. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  at  Baddeck  it  blew  a  violent  gale  of  wind. 
But  the  weather  moderated  the  following  day,  and,  after  laying  in  the 
usual  stock  of  fresh  provisions,  we  headed  our  little  vessel  once  more  to 
the  westward.  The  Little  Bras  d'Or  Lake  is  about  ten  miles  square,  al- 
though really  much  larger,  owing  to  the  deep  bays  which  make  in  several 
directions.  It  comes  to  a  narrow  passage,  when  it  merges  in  the  Great 
Bras  d'Or  Lake,  which  is  called  Barra  Strait,  or  Grand  Narrows.  This 
is  one  of  the  prettiest  parts  of  the  Bras  d'Or.  The  large  lake  is  about  fif- 
teen miles  in  width.  The  northern  side  is  picturesquely  clustered  with 
islets ;   but  the  southern  side  is  fringed  with  vertical  plaster  palisades, 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


119 


which  tend  to  make  this  lovely  sheet  of  water  dangerous  to  small  vessels 
in  northerly  gales,  owing  to  the  under-tow.  The  short  waves  raised  here 
in  a  storm  are  sometimes  quite  dangerous,  and  small  vessels  have  been 
known  to  founder  in  the  Great  Bras  d'Or.  It  came  on  thick  with  rain 
and  half  a  gale,  which  made  it  a  Uttle  difficult  to  discover  the  outlet  for 
which  we  were  heading ;  especially  as  the  mate  and  the  captain  were  at 
variance  as  to  the  location  of  the  gray  headlands  looming  faintly  through 
the  mist.  But  the  Sydney  steamer  came  along  at  this  time,  and  by  watch- 
ing her  course  we  were  able  to  find  the  point  we  were  seeking. 

When  it  was  no  longer  of  much  consequence  whether  it  was  clear  or 
cloudy,  the  sun  came  out  in  a  blue  sky  and  a  lovely  afternoon  attended  our 
onward  course.  As  we  entered  the  narrow  channel  of  the  west  Bras  d'Or, 
we  had  Indian  Island  close  on  the  port  beam,  and  obtained  a  clear  view 
of  the  church  and  the  wigwams.  On  the  starboard  was  the  light-house  of 
Cape  George.  The  light-keeper  occupied  a  unique  residence ;  it  was  the 
cabin  of  a  large  vessel  which  had  been  wrecked  there  some  years  before. 

At  this  place  we  met  a  fleet 
of  rakish  schooners,  standing 
eastward  and  looking  very 
saucy  as  they  danced  over  the 
waves  and  careened  over  in 
the  brisk  breeze. 

We  now  entered  on  a  very 
enjoyable  and  interesting  part 
of  the  Bras  d'Or,  suggesting  by  its  features  the  Thousand  Isles.  It  is 
thronged  with  little  islands,  and  the  shores  are  deeply  indented  with  fairy- 
like coves.  The  channel  is  very  tortuous,  requiring  many  short  tacks  .  nd 
the  greatest  circumspection  to  avoid  getting  aground.  The  farm-houses 
were  scarce,  and  sometimes  we  seemed  to  be  in  a  primeval  solitude. 
There  was  an  c^bundance  of  water-fowl,  and  the  gray  eagle  could  be  seen 
soaring  far  up  in  the  azure  above.  The  air  was  soft  and  balmy,  and 
the  temperature  ranged  at  sixty-five.  The  wind  was  dying  out,  and  it 
soon  became  evident  that  we  should  be  unaJle  to  pass  the  canal  at  St. 
Peter's  that  day,  as  we  had  hoped.  But  there  were  compensations  in  the 
delay.  We  anchored  between  two  lovely  islands,  and  went  on  shore  to  for- 
age and  "  view  the  landscape  o'er."  Stopping  at  the  farm-houses,  we 
found  the  people  courteous  and  ready  for  a  chat,  and  we  decided  that  one 
might  find  less  agreeable  ways  of  passing  an  August  afternoon.  At  sun- 
down some  of  our  party  took  the  boat  and  tried  a  few  shots  at  the  ducks, 
which  abounded,  but  with  rather  indifferent  success ;   our  boat  was  not 


From  St.  Pierre  to  Georgetown. 


I20  THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 

suited  to  such  sport.  But  there  is  no  question  that,  with  the  right  appa- 
ratus, a  good  sportsman  could  bag  many  a  fine  bird  in  the  Bras  d'Or  The 
abundance  of  animal  life  in  the  woods  was  vividly  impressed  on  us  :t  sun- 
rise. The  placidity  of  the  scene  was  phenomenal ;  the  Si/'oke  arose  'n  spiral 
columns  from  the  farm-houses,  the  cattle  bells  tinkled  in  th^  Ticaaows ;  and, 
in  every  grove  and  thicket  about  us,  we  heard  or  saw  plover,  yellow-ham- 
mers, and  squirrels.  Indians  were  also  on  the  shallows  in  canoes  spearing 
eels.  One  of  them  came  alongside  and  begged  for  a  crust  of  bread.  He 
was  a  miserable,  sickly,  blear-eyed  being,  the  very  last  dregs  of  a  race 
that  has  run  out,  A  Highlander  also  visited  us,  with  a  lamb  killed  that 
morning  in  the  hope  of  supplying  some  passing  schooner.  We  bought  it 
for  five  cents  a  pound,  and  found  it  sweet  and  tender.  The  wind  and  tide 
favoring,  we  now  sailed  up  to  St.  Peter's,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  Bras 
d'Or.  This  canal  is  of  great  advantage  to  coasters,  especially  during  the 
autumn.  Of  course,  there  is  no  navigation  here  during  the  winter  and 
spring,  owing  to  the  ice.  Eleven  hundred  vessels  pass  through  this  canal 
annually.  Our  "ew  towed  the  A /ice  Af ay  to  the  lock,  and  at  dinner-time 
we  were  once  more  afloat  on  the  waters  of  the  broad  Atlantic,  in  St. 
Peter's  Bay,  and  heading  for  the  Lennox  passage  between  Madame  Island 
and  Cape  Breton.  The  scenery  was  quiet  but  pleasing,  and  Indian  en- 
campments were  seen  in  several  places  on  the  sea-shore.  As  we  sailed 
out  we  met  a  most  dilapidated  schooner  coming  in,  on  the  way  to  the 
Bras  d'Or  for  plaster.  She  belonged  to  Charlottetown  and  was  of  unknown 
antiquity.  She  and  her  skipper.  Captain  Foley,  who  was  also  the  owner, 
had  sailed  together  for  some  thirty  years.  As  she  went  by  us,  Captain 
Welsh  hailed  him,  but  received  only  a  sardonic  grin  in  return,  although 
they  had  been  acquainted  since  boyhood. 

This  Captain  Foley  was  just  such  a  character  as  Victor  Hugo  likes  to 
portray,  being  indeed  an  example  of  human  nature  exaggerated  to  carica- 
ture The  schooner  herself  was  a  character.  Her  rusty  sides  had  once 
been  painted  black ;  her  rotten  rigging  hung  slack  from  the  gray  masts  ; 
and  the  evening  wind  seemed  to  sing  through  her  sere,  tattered  sails,  as 
she  slowly  glided  by  us  on  the  glossy  tide  with  the  silence  and  weird- 
ness  of  a  phantom  ship.  Often  had  Captain  Foley  sailed  her  alone  ;  once 
he  took  her  without  assistance  from  Charlottetown  to  Arichat.  The  con- 
stant watching,  together  with  the  bad  weather,  exhausted  the  old  fellow, 
and,  after  dropping  anchor,  he  went  below  for  forty  winks ;  but  the  winks 
ran  together  in  an  uninterrupted  sleep  of  three  days.  When  the  old  man 
awoke  he  had  lost  his  reckoning,  as  he  had  likewise  nearly  lost  the  num- 
ber of  his  mess,  and  he  had  to  go  on  shore  and  inquire  the  day  of  the 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  12 1 

week.  Latterly  this  nautical  hermit  had  selected  a  humpbacked  compan- 
ion to  accompany  him,  as  guide,  protector,  and  friend.  This  precious 
specimen  of  misshapen  humanity  seemed  to  be  well  suited  for  the  exalted 
position  to  which  he  had  been  elevated.  He  was  seated  on  the  taffrail, 
looking  over  the  shoulder  of  Captain  Foley,  who  was  steering.  He  was, 
without  exception,  the  most  satanic-looking  being  I  have  ever  seen.  His 
distorted  features  were  covered  with  a  ragged  black  beard  ;  he  was  blind 
of  an  eye,  and  one  of  his  teeth  projected  like  a  tusk.  The  pair  reminded 
me  of  Caliban  and  an  ape  holding  idyllic  converse  on  a  bark  "  built  in  th' 
eclipse,"  and  "  rigged  with  curses  dark."  Although  the  evening  was  fine, 
there  were  numerous  indications  besides  the  falling  barometer  that  we 
were  about  to  have  a  heavy  storm.  There  was  a  large  ring  around  the 
moon,  and  that  sad,  foreboding  wail  in  the  rigging  which  strikes  the  mari- 
ner with  apprehension.  The  signs  rapidly  accumulated  which  indicated  a 
gale  before  morning ;  and  here  we  were,  becalmed  and  unable  to  get  any- 
where. We  launched  the  boat,  and  the  crew  made  an  attempt  to  pull  us 
around  a  certain  vexatious  buoy,  which  being  once  passed  we  could  keep 
away  several  points  and  take  advantage  of  the  sou'west  air  now  trying  to 
blow.  After  rowing  awhile,  the  crew  began  to  grumble  ;  the  captain 
went  out  on  the  forecastle,  fairly  aroused  to  senile  wrath,  and,  in  the  quav- 
ering tones  of  old  age,  thundered  out :  *'  Row  away  like  good  fellows ! 
get  her  around  that  buoy  !  don't  let's  hear  any  more  of  this  laziness !  What 
are  you  made  of,  I  should  like  to  know,  that  you  can't  pull  an  oar  ten  min- 
utes without  howling  ?     Shut  up  now,  and  pull  away  !  " 

This  had  the  true  ring  in  it;  the  men  fell  to  with  a  vim,  and  struck 
up  a  song  whose  variations  were  vocal  more  than  verbal,  as  all  there  was 
to  it  was  "  Hurrah,  my  boys,  we're  homeward  bound ! "  The  time  of  sea 
songs  is,  alas,  over !  The  poetry  of  the  sea  is  not  found  in  studied  lyrics 
or  epics  now,  but  in  the  hearts  of  those  who  love  to  wander  over  its  wide 
and  desolate  wastes  of  gray  and  listen  to  the  piping  of  its  storms. 

By  midnight  the  breeze  had  considerably  freshened,  and,  as  we  were 
then  near  the  land,  we  anchored  for  the  nonce  until  we  could  have  day- 
light. At  dawn  it  whistled  a  living  gale  of  wind  out  of  the  northeast. 
As  we  were  in  an  exposed  position,  we  made  sail  and  ran  for  a  lee.  We 
found  a  snug  place  at  Grand  Digue,  and  rode  with  both  anchors  close  to 
the  shore  of  Madame  Island.  A  number  of  other  schooners  also  ran  in 
there  for  shelter.  It  blew  violently  all  day,  and,  as  we  afterward  learned, 
a  number  of  wrecks  occurred  on  the  coast. 

But  we  seized  the  occasion  to  enjoy  a  ride  to  Arichat.  The  wind  was 
accompanied  by  a  pelting  rain,  but,  armed  with  India-rubber  coats  and 


122 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


heavy  boots,  we  could  afford  to  defy  its  worst.  We  hired  two  open  bug- 
gies and  started.  The  distance  was  seven  miles  across  Madame  Island, 
over  solitary,  rolling,  russet-lined  moorlands,  whose  monotony  was  broken 
by  thickets  of  whortleberry  bushes,  or  clumps  of  alder  and  dwarf  cedar, 


Cape  Porcupine. 


Cape  St.  George.,  from  Hastings. 


or  here  and  there  a  rain-dashed  lake  nestling  like  a  dimple  in  a  hollow,  the 
haunt  of  water-fowl.  On  our  left  we  saw  the  village  of  Biscouche,  a  small 
sea-port  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island.  The  landscape,  if  not  strictly 
pictorial,  was  full  of  sentiment  and  delicate  suggestions  of  color,  and  con- 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY.  123 

veyed  a  grand  impression  of  space.  It  reminded  rae  of  Millais's  famous 
painting,  "  Over  the  Hills  and  Far  Away." 

Arichat  is  in  reality  a  French  town  under  the  English  flag.  It  was  at 
one  time  a  place  of  considerable  importance  on  account  of  its  fisheries,  in 
which  were  employed  a  large  number  of  pinks  and  schooners.  From  one 
cause  and  another  this  source  of  revenue  has  fallen  off.  But  the  great 
firm  of  Robin  &  Co.,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken,  have  one  of  their 
establishments  at  Arichat,  conducted  with  their  usual  method  and  neat- 
ness. A  cannon  announces  the  hours  for  work  and  rest,  while  the  bell  of 
the  convent  rings  over  the  isle  at  the  same  hours.  An  island  across  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor  is  called  Jersey,  after  the  island  where  Robin  & 
Co.  originated.  Their  establishment  at  Arichat  was  first  on  Jersey ;  but 
it  was  burned,  together  with  a  number  of  their  ships,  by  American  priva- 
teers during  the  Revolution,  and  they  then  removed  it  to  its  present  loca- 
tion.    The  cod  sent  from  here  goes  chiefly  to  Spain. 

Arichat  is  a  very  interesting  little  town,  albeit  now  in  its  sere  and  yel- 
low leaf.  It  straggles  chiefly  along  one  street,  facing  the  sea  on  a  bluff. 
It  was  at  one  time  a  place  of  considerable  wealth,  evidences  of  which  re- 
main in  some  of  the  very  pretty  cottages,  decorated  with  carved  cornices 
and  embowered  in  shrubbery.  As  these  houses  face  the  sea,  they  all  have 
a  covered  porch,  to  protect  the  entrance  from  the  cold  sea- winds  of  win- 
ter. The  willow  appears  to  thrive  better  there  than  any  other  tree,  and  a 
number  of  venerable  and  noble  examples  are  seen  in  the  main  street.  As 
at  St.  Pierre,  the  windows  are  all  filled  with  house-plants.  The  physician 
of  the  place  advertises  himself  by  a  large  pink-colored  mortar,  peeping 
through  the  shrubbery  in  front  of  his  house.  His  name  is  De  L'Esp6- 
rance — not  a  bad  cognomen  for  a  doctor.  There  is  a  large  church  at  Ari- 
chat, and  a  conventual  school  for  young  ladies,  which  has  a  wide  repute 
throughout  the  maritime  provinces.  I  thought  to  myself  that  the  poor 
girls  who  go  away  from  home  to  study  in  that  dormer-windowed  hall, 
without  a  tree  around  it,  and  overlooking  the  vast  solitude  of  ocean,  must 
sometimes  think  it  a  bleak  and  sad  place,  and  especially  those  whose 
windows  overlook  the  hill-side  cemetery  adjoining,  which  reminded  me  of 
the  old  grave-yard  at  Plymouth.  It  is  affecting  to  ramble  through  the  old 
cemetery  at  Arichat ;  for,  in  the  frequently  repeated  family  names  and  the 
tokens  of  affection,  which  appear  oftener  than  in  any  other  cemetery  I 
have  seen,  one  seemed  to  read  the  sad  story  of  a  society  once  happy  and 
prosperous,  but  now  gone  to  decay.  The  McNiels  seem  to  have  been  one 
of  the  leading  families  of  Arichat,  who,  although  of  Scotch  descent,  often 
intermarried  with  tjieir  French  coreligionists. 


124 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


We  dined  at  the  minutest  and  quaintest  of  little  inns,  kept  by  Mr.  Fin- 
lay,  whose  wife  laid  before  us  a  capital  meal  for  only  thirty  cents  each, 
and  seemed  so  anxious  to  please  that  it  is  only  just  to  call  the  attention  of 
strangers  to  their  house.     A  curious  and  absurd  breed  of  dogs  was  pointed 


Lovers^  Lane,  Hastings. 

out  to  us  as  peculiar  to  Arichat.  They  are  like  Newfoundland  dogs,  large, 
black,  and  shaggy,  but  some  waggish  fate  has  robbed  them  of  their  tails, 
leaving  only  a  shortish  stump. 

We  had  a  wild,  windy  ride  back  to  the  Alice  May,  but  one  of  Henry's 
choice  ragouts  and  smoking  cups  of  tea  in  a  cosy  cabin  were  ample  com- 
pensations. On  the  following  morning  we  sent  our  boat  across  the  strait 
to  procure  some  potatoes  from  the  farmers.  The  sailors  were  directed  to 
dig  them  out  of  the  ground  themselves.  With  the  aid  of  the  spy-glasses 
we  could  easily  perceive  the  rogues  flirting  with  the  rural  maidens. 

After  dinner  the  gale  had  sufficiently  moderated  for  us  to  beat  up  the 
Lennox  Passage,  and  we  made  sail.  The  channel  is  well  marked  by  buoys, 
but  care  should  be  taken,  nevertheless,  to  cast  the  lead,  and  not  venture 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


125 


too  near  in  shore.  The  Alice  May  raked  up  the  mud  once,  but  got  off 
immediately.  Both  she  and  her  captain  did  their  prettiest  that  day. 
Toward  night  we  opened  the  Strait  of  Canso.  It  was  still  blowing  a  very 
fresh  breeze,  making  it  next  to  impossible  to  work  up  the  strait.  A  fleet 
of  vessels  was,  therefore,  lying  in  the  Habitants  River  Roads,  near  Bear 
Head,  waiting  for  a  change  of  wind.  We  followed  suit  and  came  to  an- 
chor for  the  night.  Ere  long  we  were  visited  by  the  captains  of  two 
square-rigged  vessels,  bound,  like  ourselves,  for  Charlottetown.  This  in- 
terchange of  courtesies  by  ships  on  a  voyage  is  a  very  pleasant  feature  of 
sea  life.  Good-will  is  at  once  established,  and  notes  of  experience  are  ex- 
changed in  a  friendly,  chatty  manner,  with  perhaps  a  social  glass,  and  then 
they  part,  probably  never  to  meet  again  in  their  wide  wanderings. 

The  wind  was  still  ahead  the  following  morning,  but  we  concluded  to 
take  advantage  of  the  in-going  tide  and  beat  up  as  far  as  Hawksbury. 
But  the  rest  of  the  fleet  decided  to  wait  for  a  change  of  wind.  The  tide 
through  the  Strait  of  Canso,  or  Canseau,  when  going  with  the  current, 
runs  from  five  to  seven  miles  an  hour,  and,  when  opposed  by  a  southerly 
wind,  produces  a  violent  sea,  which  it  is  impossible  for  a  vessel  to  breast. 
But  with  the  aid  of  this  tide  a  fore-and-aft  schooner  can  beat  up  when  it  is 
not  blowing  too  hard.  The  strait  averages  from  one  to  two  miles  in 
width,  and  is  about  twenty-five  miles  long.  The  entrance  is  very  beautiful 
and  impressive,  and  the  prospect  increased  in  loveliness  and  variety  as  we 
proceeded.  On  one  side  we  had  Cape  Breton  Island,  and  on  the  other  the 
shores  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Previously  we  had  had  much  reason  to  find  fault  with  the  captain  dur- 
ing a  dense  fog,  when  we  discovered  him  sleeping  in  his  bunk  below,  and 
only  one  man  in  charge  of  the  wheel  and  the  deck.  No  fog-horn  was 
blowing,  nor  was  a  lookout  kept  at  the  bow. 

"Where's  your  fog-horn.  Captain  Welsh?"  we  demanded  with  indig- 
nation. "  Is  this  the  weather  to  lie  below  ?  You  ought  to  have  a  sharp 
lookout  on  the  bow,  and  keep  the  horn  going ! " 

"Oh,  never  you  bother  yourselves  about  the  ship  ;  I'm  looking  out  for 
her.  It  don't  make  mu'^h  odds  about  blowing  the  horn;  other  vessels 
coming  this  way  will  bluw  their  horn,  and  we  can  keep  out  of  the  way 
when  we  hear  them." 

"  Suppose  every  shipmaster  should  reason  in  the  same  way,  where 
should  we  be  ?  "  we  cried,  thoroughly  out  of  patience  with  such  inane  and 
childish  recklessness.  And  thereafter  we  compelled  him  to  keep  a  lookout 
forward,  and  to  have  the  horn  blown  every  two  minutes  whenever  there 
was  any  fog. 


126 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


I 


m 


A  Street  at  A  tic  hat. 


By  noon  we  succeeded  in  anchoring 
in  a  snug  berth  at  Port  Hawksbury, 
where  we  were  forced  to  lie  two  days 
with  a  fleet  of  vessels  waiting  for  a 
change  of  wind,  which  had  set  in  with 
vexatious  persistency  from  the  north- 
east. But  we  might  have  been  in  a 
worse  place,  for  the  scenery  is  of  the 
most  exquisite  character,  and  I  often 
wondered  while  there  that  so  little  has 
been  written  about  the  loveliness  of  the 
Strait  of  Canso.  The  shores  of  Cape  Breton  are  here  more  varied  and 
picturesque  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  island,  while  the  opposite  shore 
of  Nova  Scotia  rivals  it  in  attraction.  There  is,  also,  more  of  the  human 
element  in  this  neighborhood  than  one  sees  in  many  of  the  prettiest  parts 
of  the  maritime  provinces ;  and  this,  in  my  opinion,  always  adds  greatly 
to  natural  scenery,  by  contributing  aids  to  sentiment,  such  as  old  mills, 
old  granges,  old  orchards,  leafy  lanes,  dilapidated  wharves,  church  spires, 
quaint  inns,  and  the  like.  Now,  the  region  around  Port  Hawksbury  and 
Port  Mulgrave,  which  lies  directly  opposite,  is  abundantly  provided  with 
all  these  features,  which  make  it  of  especial  interest  to  artists,  and,  in  fact, 
to  all  of  cultivated  minds.  In  a  lesser  wav,  of  course,  it  reminded  me 
frequently  of  the  finest  parts  of  the  Bosporus.  There  are  some  delicious 
bits  of  picturesqueness  at  Port  Mulgrave,  to  which  we  crossed  by  a  steam 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


127 


ferry-boat,  and  found  ourselves  at  last  in  the  land  of  railroads.  On  that 
side,  also,  a  little  further  up  the  strait,  broods  Cape  Porcupine,  a  magnifi- 
cent precipitous  headland,  six  hundred  and  forty-three  feet  high,  but  easily 
looking  as  if  it  were  ten  hundred  feet.  From  its  shape  and  position  Cape 
Porcupine  commands  the  entire  strait,  and  gives  character  and  force  to 
every  prospect  from  all  points. 

But  if  we  had  to  choose  between  the  two  shores,  in  a  region  where  a 
comparison  would  seem  especially  invidious  ancj  superfluous,  give  us  the 
inexhaustible  beauty  of  the  Cape  Breton 
side.  For  three  days  we  explored  its 
attractions  on  foot,  proceeding  well  up 
toward  Port  Hood  on  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  and  it  seemed  as  if  it  ex- 
ceeded all  the  beautiful  scenery  through 
which  we  'had  passed,  for  giving  the 
largest  variety  of  pleasure  to  the  sum- 
mer tourist. 

On  the  third  day  we  managed  to  beat 
up  to  Port  Hastings,  the  most  beautiful 
spot  on  the  strait,  and  anchored  there  in 
a  small  cove,  desiring  to  ha^  the  ves- 
sel near  at  hand,  in  order  that  we  might 
the  more  readily  study  the  neighboring 
scenery.  The  high  sea  and  wind  for- 
bade any  attempt  to  proceed  further.  A 
fleet  of  schooners  was  lying  there,  also 

wind-bound.  When  rounding  up  to  anchor,  the  Alice  May  fouled  with 
one  of  them,  carrying  away  her  starboard  cathead,  and  receiving  some 
slighter  injury.  The  result  was  a  vigor  of  spee<"h  on  both  vessels  which 
nearly  terminated  in  blows. 

Port  Hastings  was  formerly  called  Plaister  Cove.  Some  noble  cliffs 
are  there,  at  the  mouth  of  a  beautiful  stream  which  empties  into  the  strait. 
The  town  is  built  upon  an  abrupt  height,  and  from  a  distance  seems  to  be 
about  to  slide  into  the  sea. 

Port  Hastings  might  easily  pass  itself  off  for  a  village  on  the  Rhine, 
with  its  rambling  lanes  embowered  with  willows,  its  houses  straggling 
down  a  steep,  and  its  church  perched  on  the  highest  coigne  of  vantage. 
The  road  toward  Port  Hood  follows  a  plateau,  below  which  the  farmers 
were  raking  in  their  hay,  close  to  the  sea ;  beyond,  on  the  left,  to^yered  Cape 
Porcupine ;  while  on  the  right  towered  the  craggy  coast  ranges  of  Cape 


An  Old  Cottage  at  Arichat. 


128 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  ALICE  MAY. 


Breton.  Many  a  buxom  Maud  Miiller,  raking  hay  in  a  straw  hat,  was  to 
be  seen  in  the  meadows,  and  the  whole  scene  was  pervaded  by  an  air  of 
pastoral  peace,  and  rounded  into  completeness  by  the  blue  waters  of  the 
sea,  fading  into  the  cloudless  azure  above  us. 

Tl  e  wind  at  last  seemed  inclined  to  relent  and  give  us  a  chance  to  get 
home.  Accompanied  by  a  fleet  of  schooners,  we  beat  out  into  the  gulf 
past  Cape  Jack  on  a  beautiful  quiet  morning.  But  the  wind  freshened 
again,  and  we  had  a  hard  beat  all  day  to  get  around  Cape  St.  George, 
after  passing  which  we  could  keep  away  and  have  the  wind  abeam. 

The  breeze  fell  at  night  and  the  moon  arose  at  the  full,  sheening  the 
oily  surface  of  the  swell  with  a  broad  band  of  quivering  silver.  The  pre- 
siding p:  »t  of  that  region  evidently  intended  that  we  should  have  pleas- 
ant recollections  of  the  last  night  of  our  cruise. 

At  daylight  we  had  a  chance  to  form  one  of  the  quick  decisions  com- 
mon in  sea  life.     By  our  charter,  wc  could  leave  the  schooner  at  any  port 


The  Oldest  House  in  Prince  Edward  Island. 


in  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  captain  and  the  owner  were  anxious  that 
we  should  take  her  back  to  Charlottetown ;  but  it  was  a  matter  of  time  with 
us  now.  The  wind  seemed  to  favor  continuing  to  Charlottetown,  and  we 
were  heading  in  that  direction,  when  the  wind  suddenly  canted  several 
points.  Instantly  the  word  was  given  to  alter  our  course  and  head  for 
Georgetown,  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  island,  where  there  was  a  railroad 


THE  CRUISE  OF   THE  ALICE  MAY. 


129 


Heaving  the  Log. 

station.  In  an  hour  we  sighted  land ;  at  noon  we  found  ourselv^  passing 
through  a  crowd  of  fishing  schooners,  and  toward  evening  we  entered  the 
port  of  Georgetown  and  beat  up  to  an  anchorage  off  the  town.  Ten 
minutes  later  the  anchor  was  down,  our  traps  were  in  the  yawl,  we  shook 
hands  all  around,  and  took  our  last  farewell  of  the  good  little  schooner 
Alice  May,  which  had  carried  us  to  many  places  and  safely  over  many 
waters. 


Before  closing  the  journal  of  our  cruise  in  the  Alice  May,  it  would  be 
doing  injustice  to  our  feelings  to  omit  a  cordial  acknowledgment  of  the 
many  courteous  and  hospitable  attentions  for  which  we  are  indebted  to 
Col.  Dunn,  United  States  Consul  at  Charlottetown,  since  promoted  to  the 
post  at  Valparaiso ;  and  also  to  Frederick  Hyn.dm?n,  Esq.,  United  States 
Vice-Consul  at  Charlottet^wfei arid  nitototQ^^^.^taer'.  hospitable  friends  who 
aided  us  to  enjoy  our  su^imeiriiifg  a'bout  the  'Gulf  o\  St,  Lawrence. 

n  o      0  .     ^  •  »  '        ."••  ...       V  t  •        •• 


o    »  » 

bo       .    •    »*    « 

•     B    »      O     •     *    • 


.      ••   • 


,1.  )  ^ 

'  9  .       ,  ,  *  »  •     » 

Ceo      t 
«  c  c-   .' 

-I  o  '  1. »  ;• 


D.  Appleton  ^  Co/s  Illustrated  Books. 


A  NOVEL  AND  ELEGANT  VOLUME. 


F 


iFTY  Perfect  Poems. 


A  Collection  of  Fifty  Acknowledged  Masterpieces  by  English  and  Ameri- 
can Poets,  Selected  and  Edited  by  Charles  A.  Dana  and  Rossiter 
Johnson. 

» 

With  Seventy-two  Original  Illustrations  from  Drawings  by  Alfred  Fredericks,  Frank  Millet, 
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Designs  by  Will  H.  Low. 

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L 


ANDSCAPE    !N    AMERICAN    PoETRY. 

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nur     rous   Illustrations,   of    BRYANT,    EMERSON,    LONGFELLOW, 

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"«?~w 


